Both are pretty cool ideas!!!

Nice scraper. Should work well on 1/700 ship parts too.

EJ

My third weird, but, workable idea for a tool in the campaign.





Ben

Havn't replied since March when I started this spray booth. Might give you some ideas.
Sheet metal construction, downdraft, filters below the pegboard, plenum in the back, vented to the outdoors.

Made specially to fit 1/350 aircraft carriers so is 36" wide, 23 1/2" high and 24" deep including the plenum so it would fit on a 24" counter, but is 21 1/2" deep inside.

Sure will be nice this winter in Michigan so I don't have to heat up my whole separate workshop to spray for 20 minits.











Has lights behind the front top edges, switched seperatly from the exhaust blower. Filters changed by lifting out the pegboard floor. takes standard furnace filters.

Really cool, Eugene.
I like the down draft design and its size; I prefer large painting areas over the small commercially sold shoe-box designs. Well done

Very nice, Eugene! I wish I had the skills and tools to build a custom one for myself.

Thanks. I used stuff laying around my shop. Am a retired builder. The only thing I had to buy was the duct, elbow and damper for the exhaust, and the filters. About $60.00.
I've been thinking about moving the blower motor outdoors, away from the window, as it is kinda noisy. I've never heard one of the commercially made ones running, so I don't know how noisy they are. Maybe mine's not so bad.

EJ

I have a commercial one and it is somewhat noisy, but quieter than my compressor, which is rated at 61 Db. When I close the door, it's not noticeable in the rest of the house. That said, it doesn't move as much air as I would like--it's decent, but not great.

Thanks for the info.
Well, my booth blower is about as noisy as the compressor too, so I guess it's not that bad. I might move the compressor into the laundry room to remove some of the noise. Just need a longer hose. I might try wrapping the blower and duct with insulating wrap too. Easier than moving the blower.

The blower really sucks air - about 600 cubic feet per minit I calculate. I sometimes throttle it back by laying a towel over the pegboard. I'm thinking of adding a variable speed switch to it for a little more control. It was a spark-proof blower motor assembly salvaged from a commercial lab vent system, worth about $300.00 if I had to buy it, so I'll live with it no matter what.

EJ

Here is my contribution to the campaign. It is a painting jig. Made from coat hanger wire and a section of pine board. The inner pieces of wire slide back and forth to adjust to different size parts.




All the entries look great.

Getting down to the last month... I know I have stuff to get finished... UGH

Matt,
I'm trying to figure out what's going on with this campaign. I remember a forum thread where I posted photos of my track jig back around the end of March, someone had photos of a spray booth in progress, and someone else had a device for holding tank turrets and hulls, but I don't see any of those posts any more. I had kind of forgotten about this campaign, having not seen any activity on that thread for so long, but now I see there is a whole new thread going. Do I need to repost my jig photos in this thread in order to get credit for the campaign?

Just in case I otherwise forget (which I am prone to do), here are the photos of my track-laying jig again:

I thought I'd have a go at something to sort out a small problem I have had recently. I use liquid poly cement in this type of bottle with it's own applicator.






However the issue is the needle applicator becomes easily clogged thus blocking the flow of the glue. Luckily I discovered I had some suitable sized wire in my stock so I came up with this.



You just push into the needle, twist it around a few times and bingo the blockage is gone! I have tried it a few times and it works a treat. I will be using this one for years!

Paul

Some very useful ideas here

My contribution will be a paint mask for HO scale wheels and axles. A very similar setup as EHAM0624's, underwing ordnance paint mask.

I need to reclaim my workbench from the fiberglass repairs I've been having to to on our Vehicles running board. Maybe I can get one oh the entries I started done.

Matt,
Please see my post above. Any idea what happened to the thread that was active late March through June? I distinctly remember several other projects, my own included, being posted, of which there is no evidence in the current thread. Or is my mind starting to go?

AH HA!!! I found them!!! a bunch of us posted into the proposal thread (myself included)

https://archive.kitmaker.net/forums/192848#1853347

I didn't think I was losing my mind (at least not for this particular reason). I wonder why it didn't turn up when I searched for "build tool"

Anyway, Hopefully all those get credit too...

Looking forward to BAT IV since I already have some new ideas....

Wheel Mask blog https://archive.kitmaker.net/forums/229248&page=1

I attempted a budget Wheel Mask for HO scale wheels a few years ago (2011) but was not successful. In fact a total FAIL
So, I've since figured out a solution and will contribute this solution build to this, Build-a-tool 3, campaign.

Before I do this I want to show you the ill fated journey to failsville, or as some put it, the agony of defeat

A warning, the following is not for the RC or Lego stomaches:


here you see a standard Maxell case on the bench


filler material is cut and stuffed into the case.


equal spots are measured out and marked onto the case. Then pilot holes are drilled into those spots with a 1/8" drill bit

again… The following may not be suitable for die-cast collectors. If you cannot handle cold hard reality in model building, please turn away from the next picture

Major FAIL . . .



I see what I did wrong and will include this solution in Phase Two of this wheel mask build . . .
thanks for looking

Looks like you used a twist bit to drill your larger holes. You're probably going to want to use a brad-point bit for that since it cuts from the outside-in, rather than inside-out. Maybe also consider a smaller pilot hole so the larger bit is more stable when you drill.

whoa, you def know what you're talking about I love the track-laying jig you made, BTW

Thanks for the tips

Thanks!

Ko, I'd also using a softer plastic. If I remember correctly those old cassette boxes are Acrylic which has a tendency to shatter rather than cut!

Paul

Yes, they are brittle but I've learned how to work with it