Added some bump stops









Iain, my mate from the TA has wangled a visit to his TA centre for some serious time getting to hug ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I mean clamber over, under and in the DROPS motor before they get put offline in the British Army !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Am going to make the best use I can of the day and get as many detail pics with measure sticks. They also going to put the motor over the pits so will try to get even more details of the underside which has been something missing in my reference pics until Iain arranged some earlier.

Looking forward to the noise and smells to rekindle fond memories !!!!!!!

Nige

Just caught up on this one thanks to the lightweight thread Nige - TWO great projects on the go mate - really nice work and great staged pics showing the progress all very useful for future projects! ;0)

I use any fine single core cable for hydraulic lines. By cutting into 6" lengths (models rarely require longer lengths without splitter, unions, etc) I remove the core wire leaving the flexible outer. Use small 5-6mm lengths of the inner core wire in your blocks and rams, etc and simply attach the plumbing to them.

You can see the result on my Trojan AEV's excavator arm:



HTH

Dick

...That's really impressive Nige

awesome work nige! what size channel did you use for the chassis? i am going to be making a 1/24 scania p360, and need to make a long chassis for it.

Hi Matt

I had to make up my own channel size using plasticard cut to width and adding strips to form the channel. I still have to blend the strips with filler and smooth to make them seamless so you can see them still on the pics so far.

An additional problem is that at various locations there are channel sections bolted or welded on of different sizes to act as reinforcement and brackets for mounting subframes, etc.

If you look at a chap called Tiking's work, he has some stunning scratchbuilds, and great detailing that you should look at. I need to look over some of his work and see how I can apply it to mine.

Glad you like. Hope I get some more work soon on the DROPS.

Nige

Hi Mauro Thanks for looking in too

Dick

I will need to make a trip to Maplins or some other place that has wire and see what they have. I am going to wait till after Saturday when I have had a chance to look over the real DROPS and remind myself what I am dealing with and what I need.

I will need a mix of stiff and flexible so that I can have the pipes that do not need to flex kept as strong as possible to protect them from my ham fisted handling.

Nige

cheers nige. still looking great though!

Just spent a cracking day at the TA centre hugging a DROPS or two !!!!!!!!!! Have added another 300 photos to my collection of detail shots !!!!!!!! Now I just need to sit down and work out areas I want to concentrate on to get this motor moving again.

They were practicing flatrack transfer from truck to trailer and would have loved to have jumped in the cab and see if I still had the knack !!!!!!!! Also lots of new MAN 4x4 trucks in the compound that I would have loved to knicked for a day to see how they compare on the road and off road !!!!!!!!!!

Still I managed to get a little diesel fix just being in and around them for a day !!!!

Thanks to Ian again for the invite and for the grub at lunch time too !!!!!!!

Nige

Made a start on leaf springs using a metal strip for strength as a basis to superglue plastic strips to making three leaf spring







Hanger for the first axle rear mount and second axles front mount are common with the lower mount staggered outbourd of the chassis and the higher mount in line with the chassis.



Nige

I wish I could have the pace of some of the better modellers that seem to throw the plastic in the air and magic it all together in an instant !!!!! My pace is a little more sedate !!!!! Any more sedate and it would be horizontal !!!!

I came across this little tool ages ago in a sewing shop and new it would have many uses



It is meant to be used for setting out hem lines, but it has come in really useful for checking the ride height on the chassis rails so that I can add the front axles. The rear chassis height worked out well with the donor Mercedes walking beam and twin rear powered axles.



I just need to add the axle mounting plates and 'U' bolts to the first and second axles now I know that the ride height is ok







Lots more mounting brackets to add for things like the side locker, fuel tank, cab mounts, battery box, mudguards and the like. Then I need to find a source for bolt heads so that I can add the most visible heads on the inside and outside of the chassis rails and then get a lick of paint on it all.

For some folks that would be all done in a day's work. Maybe look in next month and see how far I got on ,,,,,,,, ha ha. Am still enjoying it when I can get something added.

Thanks all for looking in.

Made a start on some plumbing of hydraulic lines now armed with a good number of photos. Big decision is to figure out any that can be left out that will not be seen so easily. Also ,,,,,,, less is more ,,,,,,, so I keep telling myself.

Flow and return to the ram housings first using wire from used bonfire night sparklers which turned out to be of reasonable thickness and very sturdy but pliable too




Never noticed the lines running along the sub-fame chassis till looking at the photos. Still need brackets to hold them in place. This time fuse wire of the same thickness as sub frame will protect it


these continue to a junction box at the rear of the sub-frame




A bit more detail on the front sub-frame bolt down brackets




Still got bolt three heads to find to place parallel to the drilled holes in line with the sub-frame chassis rail that for some reason are left open and unused. The long bolts run under the three angle covers outboard of the chassis rail. Must be so many other fixing points for the mud guard supports and hydraulic arm mounts, etc

Nige

More plumbing on the LHS






A little bit of extension on the hook arm rams as the angle of travel was not correct and rams would have dropped out before reaching correct angle



Additional plates and bump stops for the main frame of the LHS added to the sub -frame




Am working on tonight so more to follow hopefully very soon

Nige

A few more items corrected and added

Support plate for the main frame




Main frame bump stop that rests on the plate


second axle travel bump stop


start of the sub-frame to main chassis front mounting brackets


sub frame front lifting brackets




Hook arm bump stops where the flat rack headboard makes contact




Front bump stop also has a plate that activates the LHS proximity switch that deactivates the controls when the LHS is in the loaded position




All the best

Nige

Some chassis plumbing using a mixture of solder wire, fuse wire and very thin copper wire from a motor winding.



[

Junction boxes for wiring, brakes, etc from plasticard and carved sprue.





length enough to plug all the necessary pipes into the rear axle when I am ready to add it.

Will look at the next bay after a weekend of wining and dining !!!!!!!!!!!! If I sober enough after it.

Nige

More plumbing tonight

Solder wire and copper winding


The winding has miles of thin copper wire that will last me ages


Nige

Next bay along to fill with wires and pipes



Also first of the air tank reservoirs that are located along the chassis length






Nige

More plumbing to follow as I will be off work tomorrow due to the strike action. What a fantastic month to put us on strike (just before Xmas) .

I will need to console my self by the thought that our Pensions are worth fighting for.

And the fact that I will make time for my model building.

Nige

Added a transfer box to the main chassis and its support bushes








Chassis underside


Chassis topside


Nige

Plumbing on LHS Main Frame

Made a start on a flatrack



Have gone for strength in the flatrack so construction is not 100% the way it is likely to be done, but hopefully my method will cope with the rigors of handling and taking a load.





Main runners are only glued under the laterals but will get topped off with extra sections to encase the lateral bearers so they look welded in. The runners require to sit flush with the top face of the planks.







The timber planks I have are the correct thickness but are far too narrow. Might need to browse some of the shipwright sites to find correct width planks to fit the bill. It gives an idea of the look to come.









I think the flatrack sits well on the frame and gives the truck a lot of bulk now.





Still got the flatrack headboard to make up which has awkward angles to match up and to keep symmetrical.

More to follow

Hope yous like

Nige

Flatrack sat on the King trailer for effect











Will need to stock up on plasticard profiles to match this build so I can make a second flatrack. I will need to keep all the off cuts handy as I have no idea what sizes I am using to buy them on line as they have sat in a big bag all mixed up.

Oh to be organised !!!!!!!

Glad the system is back up and running again and the last post have been saved.

Seems to be working a treat.

Nige

Making the runners flush





Making the headboard of the flatrack









In loaded position










Nige