Hisham,
Don't despair, all is not lost.
At the 'mo I'm writing up an article/feature on the basics of scratchbuilding tyres (okay tires for those that prefer) that covers some of the basic principles of scratching .
If time permits (and the article is accepted?) I hope to cover a few other areas where people shy away and head straight for the AM catalogues.
One possible idea to try, would be a SBS build of something small(ish) and simple ie. a trailer !.
Just a thought.

Gotta love scratchbuilding -- it's the ultimate "outside of the box" modelling. With some good plans and enough time and material, anything is possible.

Going way back to Frank's post, Shep Paine's "Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles" is a great source of info and inspiration. His "How to Build Dioramas" is also a great source.

The skills are not that difficult but I'm not sure all of them can be taught or learned. The true talent is being able to look at two-dimensional drawings and some photos, then turning that information into a 3-D scale model. Some people just cannot make that jump -- not that they are stupid ... it's often just a matter of complex spatial conception and not everyone has that talent. On the other hand, some of us are color blind -- that doesn't make us stupid either.

Me, I love the build and hate the painting and finishing. I'm a tad color blind (ask the guys in Kansas City about the "pink" mud on my M4A1 at the last AMPS regional! Maybe Rick saw it.)

Some final words on scratching and then I'll shut up for a while: Don't expect great results on your first try. And not everything can be built from bits of Evergreen and Plastistruct. You may need to fall back on the "ancient" skills of whittling, carving and sculpting. I was a Cub Scout and had a pocket knife when I was six, so I fooled around with trying to make things from sticks, boards and other found junk for many years. One of my grandfathers was a gunsmith and the other was an electrical engineer, so I was tinkering with "cool stuff" all of my youth. All of this and other experiences (including model building) have helped my scratch-building efforts. But I only consider myself a "fair" scratchbuilder, hardly in the same class with some others on this site!

Hisham: I'm not sure you need a tutorial as much as you need to just keep trying! The more familiar you become with different materials and tools, as well as experience reading plans and interpreting photos, the better your scratchbuilding will be.

Thanks for all your replies, guys. Like I said in the begining, I was expecting this thread to just die out because so few people are interested in scratchbuilding since some feel.. why do the effort with so many kits and AM sets out there, and others seem to think it's totally out of their league.

I, personally, have always thought that scratchbuilding is the ultimate form of modelling which not all people can excel in. Some can only do some minor additions to a kit.. and others can build a whole vehicle from scratch. This is just like, say, figure painting. Not everybody is going to become a talented figure painter, but you can still teach people the basics and then let them explore their capabilities to the fullest. Which is what I was hoping for here. Just the basics of starting out.. the different methods involved.. some jigs that might help the modeller with certain aspects like, say, building curved shapes.

Also, I realise there are articles out there but, like everything else, doing something in a group environment seems to give a person more incentive to participate and apply himself. Just like the figure painting classes they had a while back, and the AFV painting classes they are planning now.. there are tons of articles out there that cover both these subjects extensively, but again, the group environment seems to make a difference.

Finally, I just want to thank everybody for trying.

I would like to make a suggestion on this. At the moment and for the next month or so I am tied up and cannot do anything along this line. HOWEVER......

I am willing to do a group build using the following model...

Italeri open cab GMC kit # 205 or as an option the re-released Italeri hard cab GMC kit.

We will convert it into a radio truck version by scratchbuilding the rear body from evergreen.

You will need some 60thou card for the walls, some 40thou for the floor and roof along with some square section which I can work out closer to time if folk want to do this.

The reason I am doing this particular kit are two fold. First I have the kit on my shelf so I do not have to buy another kit and second the body walls and floor are flat and have window and door cutouts plus the roof has a slight curve and it has a ladder on the back. Also this body will fit the kit without major alterations to the kit.

So let me know what you folk want to do. I will ask a few of the other scratchbuilders who wish to do this too to show different methods of doing the curved roof as well as the doors and windows etc.

Cheers
Cliff

PS> start time will be at least 4 weeks away though.

I'm with you, Cliff.. if enough people would be interested. In fact, I was going to start on a similar project converting the Russian Gaz AA truck into a field workshop. I was hoping we would do these lessons first or at least at the same time I'm working on that project.

Anyway, as far as starting after a month. I think that's a good idea since I rely totaly on internet shopping and I'll need sometime to order what I need. Is that Italeri kit available by the way?

So, let's wait and see who else would be interested. Hell, if you'd be willing to do this with only one student, I'd love to be that student and follow your class.

Come on, guys... take a chance at something new!!

Howdy, fellas .... As a pattern-maker most of what I do involves scratchbuilding in one way, shape, or form. If I can help in any way - whether it be just adding a comment here or there along with others' excellent articles - or perhaps something even more specific - I'd be more than happy to do so.

Thanks,
Mike Kirchoff

Cliff.... Concerning the kit.. I already have Tamiya's 2 1/2 ton 6X6 truck. Would that work instead? That Italeri kit is kinda hard to find. Thanks for offering to do this.

yes it will but the measurements will be different in the floor especially. I have a full resin kit that I did myself of this body to fit the Tamiya kit. Trouble for me is the Tamiya kit here is over $60 and I do not wish to spend that sort of money on a kit at the moment.

Cheers
Cliff

Guys:

May I make a suggestion ?

It matters not WHAT each person does, only that the "class" teaches techniques that each student can use with their own project.

Cliff's suggestion to build a simple van body type is a good one, but I suggest the techniques used can be applied to any simple body style. That would allow Hisham to modify the project to fit his Gaz and nobody needs buy a new kit.

Now it means that we can't just say cut "this so big" and "that so big" but have to start at the beginnings of finding reference material and making plans -- 'Roo that means you get to dig up your photo-scaling article !!!

Others can chime in with variations -- say if one project needs more curved parts, etc.

And we can then move into interiors -- not all the same, but the basic techniques of making cabinets & etc apply. I note Hisham wants to do a Gaz field workshop. Well, I'm (yeah, ok, slowly) working on an M16 machine shop van.

And so on -- saves folks from buying base kits they might not need or want.

After we do a simple van body, then we can look at a chassis & cab ... then maybe get into drive trains & complex curved parts ... then maybe into detailed machinery & bit & pieces ...

Just a thought ....

John

Actually, I already have both kits, so it's not going to be a problem.

I do have a request though. I have only gotten back into the hobby about a year ago, so I really haven't accumulated a lot of tools and stuff. So, Cliff.. could you make out a list of necessary tools and things which I will need so I have enough time to order them before we start. And even if this class thing ends up not taking off.. well, I'll still use these tools.

Thanks again.

OK here we go with the tools I use. I do NOT use power tools of any form as I cannot hold them so hand tools is it.



needle file set - I use mainly the half round one and the rectangular one.

circle cutter - good for those larger holes or circles.

2 scalples - 1 with #23 curved blade 1 with #10.5 (or 11) pointed blade.

Pin vise with set of micro drill bits (up to 1mm)

razor saw

2 steel rules. 1 300mm (1foot) and 1 150mm (6inch). I use the smaller one most of the time and both are used as straight edges as well as rulers. I also use them to do 90degree angles

sprue cutters. Mine are in fact model railway line cutters. I use these to cut light gauge brass rod and wire as well.

Last but probably the most important to me at least.



this is an "OLFA" P. cutter 450. I use it not only to scribe panel lines but also to cut, by continuous scribing, thick sheets of plastic (60 & 80 thou mainly)

Not shown is a range of wet & dry sandpaper, a piece of square bulsa to use as a sanding stick and your glues both plastic and CA or super glue.

Cheers
Cliff

Cliff

I would certainly be interested in joining in. I don't have that kit. Well....confession time... I don't have any truck kits . I will actually be away for the next 4 weeks with work so I might even get to a local hobby store (what are they? ) and see if I can get it.

I only have 20 thou Evergreen sheet too. How much of the 40 and 60 thou would I need (1 pkt, 2 pkts, 10 pkts?) I'll have to get that while I am away too. About the only "scratchbuilding" thing I can get here now is brass rod.

Brian

Brian I am talking off the top of my head here as I have not worked that out yet but....

All plastic discriptions & numbers are evergreen.

#9060 - 60 thou sheet 2 packets (this gives you 2 sheets.)

#9040 - 40thou sheet 1 packet. (you will have a lot to use on other projects.)

1 packet of #131 (30X30 strip)

1 packet of #132 (30X40strip)

1 packet of #120 (20X20 strip)

2 only 300mm lengths 40thou (half a millimetre) brass rod.

optional - 1 packet of 9010 - 10thou sheet.
- milliput or 2 part epoxy filler

The 10 thou sheet is optional as I can show you several ways to do an easy curved roof, one of which is a 10thou skin over ribs. The others are all solid panels with the curve filled & then filed and sanded to shape. You will have some product left over to use on other projects.

more tools I forgot to add a couple of pair of tweezers and a pair of long nose pliers.

The body I will build with you will be a closed body but with the option of putting a full interior inside if you wish to.

cheers
Cliff

this is the body I am proposing to make. This photo shows it on a closed cab GMC chassis but they were built on open cabs as well.



cheers
Cliff

Cliff
Thanks for that list. I will be in southport in 10 days time so will check and see what Mr Toys Toyworld has there - otherwise I will try to get to his Springwood shop as I am sure they more stock there.

Pity I'm going there for work .

Brian

To Cliff's tool list, I'd add:

Single-edge razor blades.
In the small files, triangular & round also.
A metal isoceles-triangle scale & a metal right-angle(L) scale, both about 2-3 in on a side ...
A set of dividers ...
An engineers pocket rule, graduated at 64ths ...

John

Excuse my ignorance, but what are... single edge razor blades and what are dividers? And what are they used for?

Thanks

John I did say a set of needle files and which of them I use the most.

You do not need to purchase the metal triangles I never have and have no need of them. The metal rules I mentioned are marked in both inches and metric. I will work in metrics as that is how I work.

This class is about basics not having a full workshop of tools.

Others may know dividers as a compass with points on both sides of it. Once again I do not have one and have never needed it. The steel rules will work as both set squares and measuring devices.

single edged safety razor blades have a thick bar on one side and slide into a handle so they can be used as a scraper etc. Once again I do not use them not even for PE.

Cliff

Cliff.. a question about the interior, since you mentioned it. If I chose to do it, would you usually build the whole interior on the bottom plate and then add the 4 sides/walls or is it better to build the 4 sides then fit in the interior parts from the top?

And thank you for working in metrics as I get lost with inches!!

OK guys. My opologies but I am going to change the rear body TYPE. We will still use the GMC kit but we will do the surgical body. My reason for doing this is selfish as I already have built the Radio/Command body but have not (but wish to) built the surgical unit.

Main problem with this is I only have a vague idea on the interior of these and the curved part just behind the driver on the front of the body I have no idea what it is for (it could be a rear body heater). But we can fudge a little on this.

Here is the unit. This scan is from TM9-2800 dated 1943 and is good as it has basic measurements on it. I will convert these measurements to metric for those that prefer metrics.



this is the unit again




It can be done several ways. By building it on the floor pan and then adding the walls. By adding it to the walls and then fitting to the floorpan or by adding it after the walls are up.

The best way is fixing to the walls and then adding it all to the floorpan. The main reason for this is that any gaps are not easily seen as they are at floor level. It can also be painted before fitting as well.

cheers
Cliff

NOTE please add 1 packet of evergreen #240 - 40thou (1mm) half round for this body.

Cliff... sorry for all these questions, but I just want to make sure I have everything ready.

I'm having a hell of a time finding a store that stocks Evergreen products. The ones that list the items "Available" need 2 months to restock!! So I'm going to try ordering from plastruct(Evergreen doesn't do international orders). Only before I order, i wanted to ask what exactly is ABS palstic? Does it work instead of styrene(or with it)?

Finally, should I use this time to build the chasis and cab of the kit to be ready for the rear part, or does one not depend on the other?

Thanks

Cliff

If can't get the Italeri kit is Tamiya t35218 - US 2.5 ton cargo truck 6 x 6, a viable alternative?

To my "truck ignorant" eye they appear to be identical?

Brian

Hisham I have no idea what the difference is or what ABS plastic is. But I use a mixture of plasticstrut as well as evergreen as a friend kindly sent me some last year and have no problems with it.




yes the Tamiya will be OK. Only difference is the sizes. the Italeri/Heller kits are smaller dimensioned overall.

NOTE

for the surgical body delete the 1 packet of #132 (30X40strip) and replace it with 1mm half round.

I may have a complete Tamiya GMC kit here (I have 3 part kits plus some parts) if the Tamiya kit is all folk can get. ( but I have 3 Italeri GMC kits to use up :-) )

cheers
Cliff

ABS is a different plastic than Styrene.
You need to use a cement that will bond ABS to Styrene, as normal styrene cements do not melt ABS.
MEK will work. Many plasticstrut products come in both ABS and styrene. Plasticstrut make their own brand of cement for bonding ABS to Styrene, and also a Styrene cement. Both evaporate extremely fast. Good for drying time, but the bottle will be empty over night if top isn't on tight.

If you are using their website put STYRENE in the search. You should come up with their STYRENE products.
Also when you order, make sure you ordered the UPC packs, otherwise you'll end up thinking you ordered a package, and end up receiving 1 piece of rod, or strip. Same thing if you are ordering the sheets, you'll get one one piece unless you order the UPC packs.

How about this interesting looking one for an advanced class!

Where would you find good reference material on something like this? Which publishers have good reference books that usually have drawings and such?

I wish I could do something like this one day.