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gunze lacquer
BigMan
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: December 04, 2003
entire network: 34 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 03:20 AM UTC
Hello! Sorry if I havent posted lately. I have read the whole thread about gunze paints and I would like to add from what has been posted already. It's interesting how it evolved from Gunze Paint to IPMS-Phil BA! :-) This post maybe late, but as I always say, better late than later.

All Gunze paint finish is semi-gloss except when the paint is for tanks, in which case the finish is flat and gloss if for cars (this is usually printed on the label). That is, if you use Gunze thinner. When using hardware lacquer thinner or hudson acrylic thinner, the finish is usually flat, even if the label says that it's gloss or semi-gloss. I think this is because the paint dries up a soon as it hits the surface, leaving no time for it to 'settle'.

Be careful when using the hardware thinners. These melt plastic. So when painting, i suggest you apply very thin coats, especially on the first few passes so that the paint will dry immediately, reducing the risk of 'crazing' the plastic. Dont try to cover the model at one pass. Dont worry if you're using Tamiya Sprayworks when using these hardware thinners. They wont melt the plastic parts of the airbrush.

On the other hand, you wont experience these problems when using Gunze thinner since first and foremost, Gunze thinner dont melt plastic nor 'craze' the clear parts. But I still suggest you apply thin coats instead of covering at one pass.

I've been using the Gunze/Sprayworks (not the HG type) combination for many years and for me Gunze paint should be thinned until it has the consistency of milk (not condensed :-)). The paint is still thick when the mist coming out of the airbrush is 'rough'. When painting camouflage patterns, this should be a thinned down further.

I've tried used Gunze Aquaeous paints. It can be thinned by water, alcohol, gunze thinner and harware thinner. I dont see much difference in using these except that they take a much longer time to dry thoroughly . About 2 to 3 days, otherwise the paint is sticky and fingerprints may appear For Gunze Lacquer, the paint dries hard in minutes and can be handled roughly once dry.

Avoid painting when raining or just after. The paint 'whitens' (namumuti). Maybe due to the water content hanging in the air. Funny though, I dont experience this phenomenon much when using Sprayworks compressor..

Mr. Surfacer can be airbrushed. I usually use this as a primer, especially when using silver Gunze No. 8. It covers up fine scratches and leaves a smooth finish. Airbrush this as if using Gunze Lacquers. I usually use Mr. Surfacer 1000. They say it leaves a smoother finish than the 500 and is therefore ideal for use for aircraft models. Note that Mr. Surfacer is not that required before using Gunze Lacquers since Gunze Lacquer has very good adhesion properties, as long as the surface is washed before painting.

oooops.... i think i've written a novel already!

cheers!

BigMan :-)
cbrain21
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Metro Manila, Philippines
Member Since: February 16, 2004
entire network: 151 Posts
KitMaker Network: 141 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 12:39 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hello! Sorry if I havent posted lately. I have read the whole thread about gunze paints and I would like to add from what has been posted already. It's interesting how it evolved from Gunze Paint to IPMS-Phil BA! :-) This post maybe late, but as I always say, better late than later.

All Gunze paint finish is semi-gloss except when the paint is for tanks, in which case the finish is flat and gloss if for cars (this is usually printed on the label). That is, if you use Gunze thinner. When using hardware lacquer thinner or hudson acrylic thinner, the finish is usually flat, even if the label says that it's gloss or semi-gloss. I think this is because the paint dries up a soon as it hits the surface, leaving no time for it to 'settle'.

Be careful when using the hardware thinners. These melt plastic. So when painting, i suggest you apply very thin coats, especially on the first few passes so that the paint will dry immediately, reducing the risk of 'crazing' the plastic. Dont try to cover the model at one pass. Dont worry if you're using Tamiya Sprayworks when using these hardware thinners. They wont melt the plastic parts of the airbrush.

On the other hand, you wont experience these problems when using Gunze thinner since first and foremost, Gunze thinner dont melt plastic nor 'craze' the clear parts. But I still suggest you apply thin coats instead of covering at one pass.

I've been using the Gunze/Sprayworks (not the HG type) combination for many years and for me Gunze paint should be thinned until it has the consistency of milk (not condensed :-)). The paint is still thick when the mist coming out of the airbrush is 'rough'. When painting camouflage patterns, this should be a thinned down further.

I've tried used Gunze Aquaeous paints. It can be thinned by water, alcohol, gunze thinner and harware thinner. I dont see much difference in using these except that they take a much longer time to dry thoroughly . About 2 to 3 days, otherwise the paint is sticky and fingerprints may appear For Gunze Lacquer, the paint dries hard in minutes and can be handled roughly once dry.

Avoid painting when raining or just after. The paint 'whitens' (namumuti). Maybe due to the water content hanging in the air. Funny though, I dont experience this phenomenon much when using Sprayworks compressor..

Mr. Surfacer can be airbrushed. I usually use this as a primer, especially when using silver Gunze No. 8. It covers up fine scratches and leaves a smooth finish. Airbrush this as if using Gunze Lacquers. I usually use Mr. Surfacer 1000. They say it leaves a smoother finish than the 500 and is therefore ideal for use for aircraft models. Note that Mr. Surfacer is not that required before using Gunze Lacquers since Gunze Lacquer has very good adhesion properties, as long as the surface is washed before painting.

oooops.... i think i've written a novel already!

cheers!

BigMan :-)



Thanks for the novel-like tips on Gunze paint usage. This is a big help for me (and probably others) who are just starting out, and since my paint inventory primarily consists of Gunze acrylic/lacquer paints.
BigMan
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: December 04, 2003
entire network: 34 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, April 14, 2004 - 06:37 PM UTC
No prob cbrain21

For other queries, I'll be at the meeting this Sunday.

See you around.
blitz
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 15, 2003
entire network: 502 Posts
KitMaker Network: 432 Posts
Posted: Thursday, April 15, 2004 - 01:43 AM UTC
Thanks, for the tip Big Man. I was thinking of going back to Gunze, but I also have the urge of trying PolyS since Gunze Is a bit expensive here.
BigMan
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Luzon, Philippines
Member Since: December 04, 2003
entire network: 34 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 03:53 AM UTC
Hi Blitz!

Gunze is also expensive here. A regular bottle of paint costs PhP 75 the last time I bought one. Metalizers are more expensive. And the small bottle (110 ml) is less that PhP 200! And it seems it gets more expensive as the months go by!

The good news is, Prez Frank (Chopper) has other sources and can order for us here at a much cheaper price

Poly S is not available here (as other major paint brands ), but I read somewhere its one of the better paint brands. Tell us what you think once you've used it

By the way, welcome to IPMS-Phil BAC

God Bless

BigMan
blitz
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 15, 2003
entire network: 502 Posts
KitMaker Network: 432 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 02:00 PM UTC
No problem, Big Man I'll give you a first hand report
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