Community Forum: Filipino Modelers Phorum
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gunze lacquer
blitz
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Posted: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 12:20 PM UTC
Hello CBrain,
I do recall they sell "tingi" in ginebra bottles or in 1 pint can aside from that you can also buy 3M sandpapers. I usually get the 600 and 1000 grit ... opps don't forget rubbing compound..also in tingi..baka meron nang "sachet" pack :-)
cbrain21
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 - 05:19 PM UTC

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Hello CBrain,
I do recall they sell "tingi" in ginebra bottles or in 1 pint can aside from that you can also buy 3M sandpapers. I usually get the 600 and 1000 grit ... opps don't forget rubbing compound..also in tingi..baka meron nang "sachet" pack :-)



Thanks blitz, I already have them sandpapers (i have three: 400, 800, and 1200 grits) which I was able to find in the Federal hardware store in ATC. Is the rubbing compound you mentioned the same as the ones used for automobile finishes? I have the Turtle Wax brand of rubbing compound in stock which I sometimes use on my car.
flex_cs
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 01:32 AM UTC
guys i really nid ur help! #:-)

how long does the lacquer paint dry/cure after application?

i tried it already and after applying it w an airbrush i touched the surface and its kinda soft kinda looks like the base paint melted a bit due to the lacquer(i thought lacquers were tough paints?) ...is that normal? will it eventually harden again?

and btw the decal borders started to show up after applying lacquer clear flat on it.....is it like that?
Bull
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 04:56 AM UTC
Gunze lacquers dry to the touch in a short time(maybe 10 mins or even shorter)depending on the humidity. But it doesn't mean that it can be roughly handled already. If your paint is still "wet" after quite some time, then the paint that the lacquer was applied on may have been compromised, which I'm sad to say, may be a problem. Just leave it alone first and observe.
4-Eyes71
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 06:54 AM UTC

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There are rows and rows of paint stores in Muntinlupa (Tunasan) by the National H-way. There's this paint store in San Pedro, Laguna (next to Muntinlupa) called J & B Paint store. They sell Hudson there. It's located along Rizal St. leading to the town proper.



Thanks, I daily ply the Susana Heights route to get to the Putatan area in Muntinlupa but that's usually before 7am and after 6pm so most of those stores are closed at those times. I'll try to go "thinner" hunting hopefully during Sundays (hope the shops are open) when traffic isn't that bad in Tunasan enroute to San Pedro. For now I'll use the Gunze paint thinner in the 50 ml bottle I bought yesterday.

Do they sell Hudson in the J&B paint shop you mentioned in "tingi" packs?



I live in San Pedro, Laguna. You can ask for "tingi" They charge about 30 pesos. Be sure to bring that empty bottle of Ginebra. If you have a much smaller bottle, they may give you some for free! I got half gallon which cost me 70 bucks. I had to use an empty can of milo to contain it.
cbrain21
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:46 AM UTC

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guys i really nid ur help! #:-)
and btw the decal borders started to show up after applying lacquer clear flat on it.....is it like that?



I read somewhere (I think it's in ARC's tools & tips section) that water-based flat/gloss finishes are better in eliminating or hiding those decal borders. I haven't gotten to trying it yet though.... ehehehe I'm still new to the "painting" portion of this hobby.
flex_cs
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Posted: Thursday, March 04, 2004 - 11:51 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Gunze lacquers dry to the touch in a short time(maybe 10 mins or even shorter)depending on the humidity. But it doesn't mean that it can be roughly handled already. If your paint is still "wet" after quite some time, then the paint that the lacquer was applied on may have been compromised, which I'm sad to say, may be a problem. Just leave it alone first and observe.


that's my problem coz i aplplied the lacquer paint with enough time for it to dry....i mean i did't let the wet paint settle for too long sa kit.... but still wondering if i applied it ryt.

n what i mean soft is that i tried to scratch it off with my nails after a day n it still chips off that easily so i was wondering if it affected the base paint thus it wont cure
Fritz
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Posted: Friday, March 05, 2004 - 07:34 PM UTC

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b) Gasoline/kerosene smell - ordinary paint thinner


Or Floorwax like smell - ordinary paint thinner

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Save up on those stirring sticks at Starbucks and Seattle's Best.



You could also use them as excellent representations of wooden planks/floors if you're building dioramas (IF they're actually made of wood w/c is the case in other countries)
4-Eyes71
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 01:13 PM UTC

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n what i mean soft is that i tried to scratch it off with my nails after a day n it still chips off that easily so i was wondering if it affected the base paint thus it wont cure



Ever tried priming the model first for better adhesion?

How do you paint the model? Do you coat it layer by layer or do you apply a heavy coat right away?
flex_cs
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 11:43 PM UTC

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Ever tried priming the model first for better adhesion?

How do you paint the model? Do you coat it layer by layer or do you apply a heavy coat right away?




aah yes basically i dont prime the model but what i do is sand the model abit b4 painting to make paint bite onto something....well for me it bite well even if i scratch it but the problem is after applying the final lacquer clear that's where it begins to "soften"...to be easily chipped off
shonen_red
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Posted: Saturday, March 06, 2004 - 11:58 PM UTC
Try giving your model a soap bath first because a thin strip of film covers the model. Washing it in water will remove this film and thus better adhesion.
Jeepney
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Posted: Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 03:32 PM UTC
May nakita akong Ginebra bottles of unbranded lacquer thinner sa isang hardware sa Metropoint Pasay Rotonda. About 20 pesos each.
Wanze
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Posted: Sunday, March 07, 2004 - 07:54 PM UTC

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May nakita akong Ginebra bottles of unbranded lacquer thinner sa isang hardware sa Metropoint Pasay Rotonda. About 20 pesos each.



Mahal yun, I just bought a bottle for PHP 15.00. Anyway, 20 pesos is still cheap.

By the way if you want another alternative to Tamiya ultra thin cement, try using "Hudson" PU reducer. Chemically, they are the same and cost much, much cheaper (PHP 210 for for four liters).
4-Eyes71
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Posted: Monday, March 08, 2004 - 11:24 PM UTC

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May nakita akong Ginebra bottles of unbranded lacquer thinner sa isang hardware sa Metropoint Pasay Rotonda. About 20 pesos each.



Kinse pesos lang yan sa lugar namin. But after discovering it, I prefer using Hudson thinner more. It's good for thinning just about any paint and for cleaning.
CSMeekai
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Visayas, Philippines
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Posted: Monday, March 15, 2004 - 12:59 PM UTC
elo.... what's the usual paint consistency for brush painting? i mean, the proportion that has been sorta like the rule of thumb to avoid runs, blotches and brush stroke lines?

thanks!
:)
Jeepney
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Posted: Monday, March 15, 2004 - 01:57 PM UTC
Never was successful with brush painting large surfaces with acrylics. Small details lang ang napipinturahan ko using a brush.

Ideally dapat thin enough to flow easily. If you use acrylics refrain from brushing over a just-painted and still wet area as this will leave brush marks. Use distilled water as much as possible to prevent unsightly and difficult to remove hard water stains. And put a few drops of Joy/Axion/Daz dishwashing liquid in the water because the soap breaks up water tension.

Acrylics lang yon. Haven't tried enamels or lacquers
cbrain21
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Posted: Tuesday, March 16, 2004 - 04:56 PM UTC

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elo.... what's the usual paint consistency for brush painting? i mean, the proportion that has been sorta like the rule of thumb to avoid runs, blotches and brush stroke lines?

thanks!
:)



I found a discussion which might help you regarding your query.

here's a link : pcmodeler
warthog
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Metro Manila, Philippines
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Posted: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 05:34 PM UTC
First of all welcome to Cbrain21 and CSMeekai.

CSMeekai: If you are interested in using brush and acrylic, there is an article in the May 2002 issue of FSM (Fine Scale Modeler) not FHM re: Basics of Brush Painting by Jeff Wilson. You can get the PDF file from http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/basicsofbrushpainting.pdf or you can look for the magazine.....

hope this helps
CSMeekai
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Posted: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 06:08 PM UTC

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First of all welcome to Cbrain21 and CSMeekai.

CSMeekai: If you are interested in using brush and acrylic, there is an article in the May 2002 issue of FSM (Fine Scale Modeler) not FHM re: Basics of Brush Painting by Jeff Wilson. You can get the PDF file from http://www.finescale.com/fsm/objects/pdf/basicsofbrushpainting.pdf or you can look for the magazine.....

hope this helps



thank you. saw the article. it's very helpful. straightforward, detailed and concise.
warthog
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Posted: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 06:25 PM UTC
CSMeekai: Good. . BTW, you live in the South of MM...the only guy I know that lives in the south is GIBeregovoy....
shonen_red
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Posted: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 11:49 PM UTC

Quoted Text

elo.... what's the usual paint consistency for brush painting? i mean, the proportion that has been sorta like the rule of thumb to avoid runs, blotches and brush stroke lines?

thanks!
:)



Nyay, hehehe. Di ko na kasi tinitignan tong thread na to. Ok, with regards to consistency, basta ang flow ng liquid na parang pasteurized milk. Madali lang naman kung meron kang different sizes ng brushes. I have sable brushes 0,2,4,6 and 2/0 (can anyone tell me why it's called 2/0?) and loads of different sizes of toothpicks. If you go over my website, you can see my T-72, M1025 and M966 all done with brushes with the exception of silver undercoat (T-72) and matt finish
CSMeekai
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Posted: Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 11:37 AM UTC

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Nyay, hehehe. Di ko na kasi tinitignan tong thread na to. Ok, with regards to consistency, basta ang flow ng liquid na parang pasteurized milk. Madali lang naman kung meron kang different sizes ng brushes. I have sable brushes 0,2,4,6 and 2/0 (can anyone tell me why it's called 2/0?) and loads of different sizes of toothpicks. If you go over my website, you can see my T-72, M1025 and M966 all done with brushes with the exception of silver undercoat (T-72) and matt finish



thanks, SR! I I've seen some of the pics you posted.
CSMeekai
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Posted: Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 11:41 AM UTC

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CSMeekai: Good. . BTW, you live in the South of MM...the only guy I know that lives in the south is GIBeregovoy....



There's another one I know who lives in the southern front. Nice to hear there's another.
warthog
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Posted: Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 11:53 AM UTC
CSMeekai: I also live in th South (near BF)...now there's 3 of us....
CSMeekai
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Posted: Thursday, March 18, 2004 - 03:29 PM UTC
ei, warthog, that's great! more people buying stuff from hobbytoi and STC filinvest to keep their business going. hehehehe. :-)