I am happy to announce a new feature article from slodder about working with resin.
If you are a bit afraid of using this material then this article Pouring Resin: Easy and Inexpensive could help you to overcome this and to give it a try
Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
General discussions about modeling topics.
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
New Feature: Pouring Resin

Roadkill

Member Since: June 09, 2002
entire network: 2,029 Posts
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Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2003 - 11:12 AM UTC

Marty

Member Since: June 16, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2003 - 11:28 AM UTC
This is very helpful.  Thanks Slodder for writing it.

MichalBT

Member Since: July 03, 2002
entire network: 326 Posts
KitMaker Network: 46 Posts

Posted: Saturday, March 15, 2003 - 07:21 PM UTC
Thanks for hundred times!!! This is what I need to build my own conversion set from resin.
Michal
Michal

SniperSoldier

Member Since: August 09, 2002
entire network: 1,638 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 08:15 AM UTC
VERY NICE
THANKS
ROBERTO
THANKS
ROBERTO

Graywolf
 Senior Editor
Senior Editor
Member Since: December 01, 2001
entire network: 6,405 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 06:25 PM UTC
very good artcile.thanks slodder

KFMagee

Member Since: January 08, 2002
entire network: 1,586 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, March 16, 2003 - 06:49 PM UTC
Solid article... and some real nice pictures.  On small flat pieces, I also use a lot of Latex rubber mold, but I apply it with a cheap "sponge" paintbrush. that I discard after use.   I also use the re-inforcement fiberglass tape every third layer, and do a minimum of 6 total layers.  Here are a couple of other tips I would add, based on my experience of trial and error:
1) to reduce bubbles, place the mold on a sheet of cardboard, and set it on top of your cloths drier. Throw a few wet towels in the dryer. After pouring the resin, turn on the dryer and the tumbling vibrations of the wet towels in the dryer willl shake loose 99% of any trapped bubbles... this also works well if casting plaster in the mold.
2) If you are casting in a cold room (below 60-degrees F), you might consider putting the filled mold into your microwave. once it is poured and still in liquid form.. any additional heat that you can provide to the cold resin will aid in curing to a harder finish... but BE CAREFUL, especially on small items... if you over-heat, your resin may actually MELT back to liquid, and start "boiling".... stay nearby, and start with small timed increments of 15-20 seconds. I find this technique works extremely well, especially on molds with really fine, thin detail.
3) Take your time and measure accurately... if you use too little catalyst, then the finished piece will come out of the mold sticky and oily. If you think this may have been a bad "pour
- hit the microwave - and the sooner the better!
4) When pouring resin, consider using wax paper or disposable cardboard beneath the mold - resin pouring often results in some drips and strands of "spider webs"....and the stuff when wet doesn't come off of a wooden or formica tabletop easily. If you DO spill some resin on a cherished surface - DON'T (D-O-N-'T) try to wipe it up while it is wet... it will only smear into a superfine coat. Just let it "set up". Once it is firm and hard, you may be able to "pop" or slide the piece off.
1) to reduce bubbles, place the mold on a sheet of cardboard, and set it on top of your cloths drier. Throw a few wet towels in the dryer. After pouring the resin, turn on the dryer and the tumbling vibrations of the wet towels in the dryer willl shake loose 99% of any trapped bubbles... this also works well if casting plaster in the mold.
2) If you are casting in a cold room (below 60-degrees F), you might consider putting the filled mold into your microwave. once it is poured and still in liquid form.. any additional heat that you can provide to the cold resin will aid in curing to a harder finish... but BE CAREFUL, especially on small items... if you over-heat, your resin may actually MELT back to liquid, and start "boiling".... stay nearby, and start with small timed increments of 15-20 seconds. I find this technique works extremely well, especially on molds with really fine, thin detail.
3) Take your time and measure accurately... if you use too little catalyst, then the finished piece will come out of the mold sticky and oily. If you think this may have been a bad "pour
- hit the microwave - and the sooner the better!
4) When pouring resin, consider using wax paper or disposable cardboard beneath the mold - resin pouring often results in some drips and strands of "spider webs"....and the stuff when wet doesn't come off of a wooden or formica tabletop easily. If you DO spill some resin on a cherished surface - DON'T (D-O-N-'T) try to wipe it up while it is wet... it will only smear into a superfine coat. Just let it "set up". Once it is firm and hard, you may be able to "pop" or slide the piece off.

sgtreef

Member Since: March 01, 2002
entire network: 6,043 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,603 Posts

Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 11:29 AM UTC
Never had much luck with this resin to thick for me.
But great article!! (++)  (:-)
  (++)  (:-) 
But great article!!
 (++)  (:-)
  (++)  (:-) 
GeneralFailure

Member Since: February 15, 2002
entire network: 2,289 Posts
KitMaker Network: 532 Posts

Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 11:51 AM UTC
Good article, Scott.
Have you considered trying silicone to make your molds ? It's a bit more expensive, but a lot easier (and less smelly and messy) to work with.
Happy to help you out if you like more information on this subject...
Jan
Have you considered trying silicone to make your molds ? It's a bit more expensive, but a lot easier (and less smelly and messy) to work with.
Happy to help you out if you like more information on this subject...
Jan

slodder

Member Since: February 22, 2002
entire network: 11,718 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, December 07, 2003 - 01:15 PM UTC
Hey, GF, I think Santa is going to be kind to me in the silicone area. So I'll be 'picking your brain' come January.
The idea of the latex mold was to keep it simple and cheap for small items. It's come in very handy a few times.
Waiting for January.........................
The idea of the latex mold was to keep it simple and cheap for small items. It's come in very handy a few times.
Waiting for January.........................
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