what is a good seam filler? or what is the better technic? I do not have any problems with the seams on armor they look great but, the aircraft that i am working on I cant seem to hide thek like I can on the armor. a little help please.

Depends on how big the seam, or gap, is. For shallow gaps, Squadron putty works fine for me. I always make sure the putty is higher than the surface around it, as the putty shrinks when it dries. Wet-sanding always produces the smoothest surface for me.
If you want to easily get rid of excess putty, you can dip a Q-tip in acetone (nail-polish remover) and wip the putty off. Even works on dried putty! If you do this, make sure the area is very well ventilated. Squadron putty smells bad enough, but when combined with acetone the fumes are dangerous.
I do need to get a different kind of putty, though. Squadron's stuff dries too fast sometimes and is relatively hard to control...

YodaMan

I also use Squadron's Green Putty, but it dries faster than I can apply it to anything. For big fit problems on a/c I sometimes use JB Weld. It remains pliable for a while, no fumes, and is sandable. It's a two part epoxy that you mix together but I've found it works very well.

Matt

I asked this before and was told to use milliput for bigger seams, humbrol or tamiya putty for small to medium seams and tipex/white out for small seams!
Sometimes I use a little extra cement for very small seems as well!

wow just what i was a needin to know
Branden

My primary putty now is Mr. Putty by Gunze Sangyo. Before I used Tamiya's putty but to me it just cracked when pressure was applied while sanding. I read an article on the internet (I forgot the site - it's a model site also) that talked about three kinds of fillers and their appropriate uses. One was putty - for big seams. The other was super glue sprayed with an accelerator. Yup, super glue. Since I haven't seen a CA accelerator, I haven't tried the super glue method of filling seams. Super glue is used for those smaller seams. For really minute seams, the article mentioned Mr. Surfacer 400 by Gunze Sangyo. I have used this method and I like it. This comes in handy when the seam is in an area with lots of detail and would make it hard to sand it down. With the use of Gunze's Mr. Thinner (a lacquer thinner), you could soften (and remove) excess Surfacer and even Gunze's Mr. Putty.

I still use 3M Acryl red. It is automotive body filler, and it is the same stuff as Dr. Microtools putty was for several years. I also sometimes, use a two part "Eurosoft" body filler. I always have a fresh supply laying around, because I race oval track cars, and we are constantly doing major bodywork on the race cars. I just wander out to the garage, and grab the freshest tube, and go at it. If I ever learn to drive better, I will have to look at modeling putty again... You need to prime over the red stuff, but it doesn't bleed through the paint like green putty can. It even stays put under the hottest laquers.

Dave (aka Cap't Crunch)

Gap-filling super glue and an application of accelerator. As soon as it starts to harden, sand away.

Tamiya and humbrol putty can be softened and taken away by using nail polish renover. Use the aceton free stuff only. It can be put on and cleaned roughly at the time or let dry and then use the nail-polish remover to the same effect.
Check out the article on "Roadkill´s" homepage! he describes the method much better!

Hey Plasticbattle, tnx for the compliment

Here is a direct link to that page Tip for working with Tamiya Putty e

See ye

thanks for the tips . I have some of the products that were mentioned and I think I wil give them a try. and we will see what happens