_GOTOBOTTOM
Scratchbuilders!: Armor/AFV
This is a group for armor scratchbuilding questions, topics and projects.
Hosted by Mike Kirchoff
Cutting Steyrene?
Armor135
Visit this Community
Ohio, United States
Member Since: March 02, 2002
entire network: 335 Posts
KitMaker Network: 101 Posts
Posted: Monday, October 14, 2002 - 02:54 AM UTC
For cutting steyrene I've read to cut it and then break it apart and all you need to do is sand it right? Well I've tried cutting the Steyrene on a regular table and it slips and I almost cut my finger. Well my question is what do you guys cut the steyrene with? Any tips for cutting it besides what I read?

thanks,
Mike
slodder
Visit this Community
North Carolina, United States
Member Since: February 22, 2002
entire network: 11,718 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,584 Posts
Posted: Monday, October 14, 2002 - 04:44 AM UTC
Armor135
I cut my styrene with scissors for rough cuts then with a new #11 exacto blade. I usually make a few light passes to make a cut. It doesn’t take much to get all the way through. I usually hold the styrene down pretty tightly with my finger to a block of scrap wood, sometimes I’ll clamp it down. But not usually.
Hollowpoint
Visit this Community
Kansas, United States
Member Since: January 24, 2002
entire network: 2,748 Posts
KitMaker Network: 841 Posts
Posted: Monday, October 14, 2002 - 04:57 AM UTC
If you don't already have one, get a stainless steel straight edge (ruler). Some have cork on the back to help keep it from slipping, but if it doesn't, put masking tape on the bottom to serve the same purpose. A six-inch ruler is the most useful, in my opinion.

There are a number of ways to cut styrene, but this is the way I most often do it: Use a #11 Exacto blade. Flip it over so the sharp edge is away from the surface you are scribing. Drag the tip along the edge of the straight edge, scribing the plastic. You will have to make several passes, making the groove a bit deeper on each pass. After a few passes, you can usually snap off the piece and dress the edge with a bit of sandpaper. You may find that this technique works best with a used #11 blade -- one with the finest part of the tip broken off. I use two Exacto handles -- one with a fresh blade, and one with a "used" blade. I use the "used" blade for scribing and other crude purposes.

Hope this helps.
AIRB842586
Visit this Community
Arizona, United States
Member Since: October 09, 2002
entire network: 261 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Monday, October 14, 2002 - 10:51 AM UTC
If the styrene isn't too thick, I've found that sometimes the tools in scrapbook stores are useful. They carry small tools for cutting even the thickest of paper, such as rounding off corners, and other neat little things.
AJLaFleche
Visit this Community
Massachusetts, United States
Member Since: May 05, 2002
entire network: 8,074 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,574 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 15, 2002 - 12:39 AM UTC
Yep, my metal straightedge or a T square with a #11 blade are all you need. Ditto on making a few light passes and snapping. If you're cutting a really thick piece, a razor saw will come in handy.
Armor135
Visit this Community
Ohio, United States
Member Since: March 02, 2002
entire network: 335 Posts
KitMaker Network: 101 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 02:46 AM UTC
Ok thanks, for all the info. I have a pretty good knife I will be able to use. But what about the cutting surfaces? Besides putting in on a table top and other ideas? I'll have to try using the scrap wood, and T-square methods. I dont think the steyerene is too thick so I could use the Exato blade.


tanks,
Mike
Folgore
Visit this Community
Canada
Member Since: May 31, 2002
entire network: 1,109 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 03:44 AM UTC
If you have any spare tile hanging around, you could use that.

Nic
PLMP110
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Member Since: September 26, 2002
entire network: 1,318 Posts
KitMaker Network: 409 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 04:58 AM UTC
I do what Folgore does. I use a metal ruler for my strait edge and use a piece of ceramic tile as my cutting board.

Patrick
afm1990
Visit this Community
United States
Member Since: October 16, 2002
entire network: 7 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 06:23 AM UTC
I normally don't buy kit manufacturer's tools because they jack the price up just to have their name on it. However, there is a possible excpetion. I found that the Tamiya scriber is an excellent tool to scribe and/or cut stryene. It cuts a clean groove and pulls a finer-than-hair scrap of plastic with it. I found the generic version much cheaper at Lowes Home Improvement AFTER I bought Tamiya version. Look for it in the section where they sell plexiglass. It's only $2 and change I think. It's well worth your while. Here is a link to the Tamiya version. Its about halfway down the page item #74015. The generic is white plastic if memory serves.

Alfredo

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/tools/tools.html
ukgeoff
Visit this Community
England - North East, United Kingdom
Member Since: May 03, 2002
entire network: 1,007 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 06:42 AM UTC
For a cutting surface I would recommend a self-healing cutting mat. These have a (usually) green ruberized surface with grid markings. You should be able to find them in model stores or arts & graphic supply stockists.
PLMP110
Visit this Community
Alabama, United States
Member Since: September 26, 2002
entire network: 1,318 Posts
KitMaker Network: 409 Posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2002 - 08:07 AM UTC
In the US, WalMart has the self healing mats in the craft section.

Patrick
sgtreef
Visit this Community
Oklahoma, United States
Member Since: March 01, 2002
entire network: 6,043 Posts
KitMaker Network: 1,603 Posts
Posted: Friday, October 18, 2002 - 11:52 PM UTC
Got this little tool called a replicator from NWSL put sheet in line up and score then snap is that any help.
 _GOTOTOP