I know you have to rub them on, but what is best tool to do this? Is it better to cut out the itty bitty small numbers (I'm using them for Tank bumper numbers) or put the whole sheet up there and just move it around

You can actually use them like decals. Just rub them on decal paper and when soaked a short while, they become just like a decal and much easier to place on the vehicle, or figure.

Archer has a pretty comprehensive how to page just follow this link HTH
Cheers,
Bryan

I'll try the dry transfer first, and if that doesn't work, I'll order up some of that decal paper that Archer has. Thanks for the link, it answered all my questions

I just rub mine on with a regular round toothpick. Don't press very hard and they transfer just fine.

Putting them on decal paper always seemed like it was adding unneccessary steps. To me, that's the advantage of dry transfers -- no gloss coat, no water, no setting solutions, etc. -- just rub 'em on and go. I never seal them down either, like some do. I simply burnish them good and weather right over the top. If you look in my gallery, most ofl the markings are dry transfers -- I only use decals when I absolutely have to.

Most LHS carry an item called a burnishing tool. This is by far my preferred tool. Most have two ends with different angles to allow you to use. If you don't have a hobby shop close by try Michael's or any other craft store. They usually have this with tons of various dry transfers.

Steve, having done bumper numbers on several vehicles myself using dry transfers, one letter at a time, I think I'm ready to try putting them on a decal sheet for two reasons.

1) Alignment. It's often VERY hard to get each letter positioned exactly where you want it. It's got to be the right distance left/right, up/down, AND rotationally or it won't look right. Putting them on a sheet first sounds like a better way to accomplish that to me.

2) Ease of transfer. Inevitably, you're trying to rub the letter off completely, hold the sheet straight in the right position, hold the model so you can see it, and work around something on the model making it hard to rub properly. Despite the issues with silvering, I'm going to try this technique on my next vehicle and see how it compares.

Tom

I apply my transfers to clear decal sheets. It makes it a lot easier to keep them lined up and when I am ready to apply them to the vehicle I cut the decal as close as I can to the top and bottom of the lettering. I cut the end of one side of the decals close as I can to the lettering and the other side I will lightly score the decal be fore wetting it. I can now handle the wet decal with a set of tweezers and when wet enough it will slide off very easy and there is very little film to silver. After the decal is set and dry I cover it with a light coat of clear to keep it from smearing. I have had very good results this way. If the markings are a dark color that I just print them on clear paper.

I tried putting them on just dry and the name on the tank turret came out perfect. The bumper markings for the front of he tank....pretty good (one letter slightly out of alignment. On the back the number (B 11) came out fine the unit number well, lets just say I gave up trying to hold the model without breaking pieces, lining up the transfers and the other sheet to prevent other ones coming off and the pencil over a very tiny serface with bolts on it. I think calls for decal. So in future I think one has to access the situation and make a determination as to which way to go (sounds like a military planning conference don't it :-)