I just finished putting the decals on Nancy. I've noticed this on other models also but when you look at the model fron an angel all around the decal is a clear semi gloss residue. Is there a way to get rid of this? I just tried putting some Flat coat on a test model but I dono if its going to work since I just put it on. so does anyone know how to get rid of this??

Thanks,
Mike

2 ways.....cut your decals closer to the printed part and eliminate the excess film that way or .......cover the entire model including the decals with Future CAREFULLY sprayed from an airbrush. Both effective. Hope this helps.....Otto

The way I fixed this problem was to spray Future over entire model before applying decals and after. If I spray it before, it gives me a beautiful slick finish thus helps the decal adhere. When I spray it over the decal it seals decals nicely. Then I apply a flat finish to get rid of the glossiness of the Future wax.

I agree or either a Clear coat gloss to decal area then wait one to two days apply decals using your favorite solutions solvaset or microsol then wait another day or so and shoot on some Dullcoat to add protection and cover film. Could also try Dry transfers such as Archer or Verlinden

My dollars worth

I would certainly use the above decribed methods; cut the film closer the the print, use Future or any other gloss coat for the decal to lay on a smooth surface, Solva Set or any other setting solution, than a final "cover" coat..

Hi,

I agree with the above posts, however, for finish uniformity, I tend to coat the whole subject with Futura vs. just the areas to be decaled. Buddy of mine used to just spot coat, and never really could eliminate the glossed areas. His was always obvious to the judges. Don't know what he used for a dull coat.

Thanks,
Kevin Keefe
Mortars in Miniature

A smooth surface is the secret. Flat paint is rough allowing air to be trapped under the decal. By using a gloos caot, as described above, or using gloss versions of paint you get the smooth surface needed to prevent decal silvering. The overcoat then helps to give a smooth edged transition between the decal and the paint coat.

I echo all the above posts too. It is imperative that you lay down a gloss coat before applying decals - even dry-transfers - to give the decal a smooth surface to adhere too. The gloss also prevents the silvering effect from large areas of decal film later on.

The thinner the decal, the better the end result. Once the decal or dry-transfer is down, I seal it with another layer of gloss. The thinner the decal the better, because if you apply the gloss coat and build up a layer thicker than the decal or dry-transfer - it blends into the final finish when you dull it back down.

The thick Tamiya armor decals call for Future instead - but you've got to be careful in applying the top coats so as not to make it too thick. You can do it with lacquer-based gloss coats, but it takes a lot of time and applications and you run the risk of messing up the whole job.

The best decaling jobs I've seen on armor and aircraft have been where the builder was able to overcoat the decals sufficiently so that no carrier film was apparent from any viewing angle - without caking the gloss coat on. The markings appear "painted" on the model...

Gunnie

More of the same here: I use Glosscote on the entire model, then apply decals and another coat of gloss. On top of this I use my washes for things like panel lines, where I don't want large smears but just a line of color in the recess. Then, a couple of coats of Dullcote to seal everything in and flatten the finish. Then continue with weathering, mud, grimy washes, etc.

Greg

Thanks for all the replies guys, I'll give them all a try. I thought of a very looonnngg way of getting rid of it and very stedy hands. The fine application things you buy, cut the tip to a point and dip it in the paint. Then paint around the letters, I tried it once and its a little too much for me, besides hand writing the letters on a guntruck are a pain. I did find a way to make the decals STICK to the model and not rub off. Take some Elmers glue and rub it on with your finger so its not too thick, but dont do it slow you'll take some of the decal off , I know from personal experince. Has anyone else tried this method?

Mike

Thanks for all the replies guys, I'll give them all a try. I thought of a very looonnngg way of getting rid of it and very stedy hands. The fine application things you buy, cut the tip to a point and dip it in the paint. Then paint around the letters, I tried it once and its a little too much for me, besides hand writing the letters on a guntruck are a pain. I did find a way to make the decals STICK to the model and not rub off. Take some Elmers glue and rub it on with your finger so its not too thick, but dont do it slow you'll take some of the decal off , I know from personal experince. Has anyone else tried this method?

Mike