Guys... I have a question that has probably been asked a million times but here goes...

I am to the point where I want to add my decals. Now I know future is good to put down before to avoid silvering and such. Do I cover the whole model as this helps with weathering as well, then add my decals then apply my dullcoat? Should I thin the future? I have never used future on a model before so I want to get it right the first time.

Thanks for any info!

HastyP

I always future the entire model to maintain an even finish after final clear coat, but I have and automotive modeling background so finish is important for me.

Thinning is optional if you are airbrushing the Future on. Either way lay down multiple light coats, instead of one heavy coat.

For brushing it on, don't thin it.

As Col. TF states above, I also future the whole model to keep the finish consistent. After decaling, I also future again then put down my dull coat. I do not thin the future as it seems to run pretty good to me.
capnjock

Hi there

Like the others, I always put a coat Future (Klear in the UK) over the decals.

I usually apply Klear with a brush, but have airbrushed it without thinning.

In a recent topic, Sniper suggested thinning Future with Windex, about 70/20 Future to Windex for even better airbrushing results. A quick test looks very promising; because the Future takes a little longer to dry, it's not so prone to clogging the airbrush.

Hope this helps

Rowan

I always gloss the entire model, but not to maintain a consistent finish, I do it to stop 'bleed' into the matt cote when applying localised washes etc. matt paints are very absorbant.

Vinnie

I am new to the Fuure technique, (its Klear here), but as I dont have an airbrush I just apply the Klear to the decal area. I dont notice any colour difference when the matt is applied. I use Humbrol enamels for base coat and Clear Matt.

Regards Dave

I practice Vinnie's approach too - I apply Future to the entire model to level out the finish - before and after decal application. Localized applications tend to create surfaces of the model that is "higher" than the others. This is really bad on large flat areas - like the armor plate of a gun truck model - for instance.

I airbrush Future and my lacquer gloss and dull cotes - and since I do not thin the Future it goes on thicker than the lacquer gloss and dull cotes. This is easy to spot on close inspection. If that's not your bag, then you won't mind. But, if you're considering competition, leveling out your finish always improves your chances in the first and second cuts...

Gunnie

a gloss coat also helps with wash/weathering. It gives a nice smooth surface for the thinner washes to spread out over or flow across.

I cover it all.

lemme see if this is correct..for a model painted in acrylics..and with no airbrush? what should I seal it with before applying decals (or should I apply decal first?) do I need anything else?

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Hella, Future is self leveling. That is to say, you can apply it with a brush. If you're stuck you can also shoot acrylic finish from a can. Krylon makes a low odour gloss, semi-gloss, and flat "clear latex enamel" spray that I've used with good results.

so what I plan to do is buy some Johnsons Future Klear and hand paint the stuff on? How thick? Thin? then when dry is when I do the wash?

I have airbrushed Future straight out of the bottle 2-3 light coats then 1 heavy coat. Let it dry 24 hours, decaled, then used Testors clear acrylic flat with great results. On my aircraft models i apply an india ink / denatured alcohol wash prior to the flat coat.
I have had good success with MicroScale Clear Gloss when i brush it on my armor models. I use a 1/4 inch flat sable brush to apply the gloss to the area needed. Decal / weather / overcoat as needed.

Howdy HastyP,

I'll throw a few Farthing's on the table as well...

I'm not a big 'Future' fan, and our Gunnie has explained part of my hesitation to use it. Like Gunnie, I am very atuned to the 'leveling out' of my finishes. I have always felt (just MHO, so no beating my head in from all you Future aficionado's ) that Future builds up too much. Put simply, if I can see the build up with my naked eye, it's too much for me.
But, whether it's Future or regular clear coat, I apply it all over the kit so that my coat is uniform, period. Now, before I go any further, I must add this caveat; I don't always 'gloss' coat the kit. Depending upon the final 'look' I'm going for, or the seperation of looks, I will gloss coat, or 'matt' coat the kit. To further complicate the process, sometimes I will gloss one portion of the kit, and 'matt' another.
For my decals (I really prefer dry transfers big time), I'll gloss.
To possibly expand on the gloss vs. matt 'thing', a quick example of where this applies is horizontal vs. vertical surfaces. Weathering, and the elements that cause the 'weathering' to be there in the first place, are not static. The dynamics of the elements of 'weathering' are affected by both their delivery to the vehicle in question in the first place, as well as their daily affects and inconstant appearance to the finish of the vehicle. Dirt, grime, etc. that has clung to the somewhat vertical sides of the turret of a tank will have a decidely different appearance (via dynamics such as gravity, rain, downward movement) than the same dirt, grime, etc. that generally sits ( gets stepped on, ground-in, spilled on, etc) on top of the horizontal surface of the top of the turret. Therefore, the ' weathering' of the top of the turret (horizontal surface) should be somewhat more pronounced and more 'static' in appearance than the sides (vertical surface) of the turret where the 'weathering' should be more 'active' and mutable.
Where the gloss vs. matt comes in is in the static vs. active application. Where I need a more 'active' or flowing appearance to my weathering I apply a gloss coat. Where I want a more 'static' look , I will use a matt coat. Heck, sometimes when I'm looking for a very 'static' look (fuel stains are an example), I'll leave it flat.
I know this was probably more than you asked for , but..................... #:-)

Tread.

What Tread pointed out here is good food for thought...

I don't use Future as a catch-all, but it is part of a system of techniques to replicate finishes on your model. It does build-up quickly - quicker than you might think - and it is apparent to the casual observer. That is one disadvantage. Another is a potential to create "pooling" - areas of your finish where you've got a thickness of Future layed down that reacts with a top coat of lacquer. This can be either gloss or dull coats - but generally happens with the dull cote. Try, try, try as you may, you just can't seem to get certain areas to "flatten" out properly. It is a strange phenomenon and happens when you rush between layers of Future.

A plus with using Future is that it is self-leveling and compatable with enamel and acrylic paint finishes. If not put on too heavily, it peacefully co-exists with lacquer top coats too...

Gunnie

I am confused here...I don't have an AB, so how do I glosscoat the model to weather it?

hella yella,
you can use a brush to apply the gloss coat just make sure you dont have smear marks on your kit or put it on to thick that ithides some othe detail of the kit and give it about 24hrs to properly cure

now the debate continues...

Testors Dullcote spray or Future Floor wax? Which is better ?

Hella.. the Future is used first... before decals.. and then a lot of people prefer another coat before the wash....

Dullcote is used when your nearly finished.. to get rid of the the shinyness of the Future and Wash.. Also, it can 'seal' in Pastels (if your using them in your weathering process)... Don't use Dullcote prior to Decals or Wash, as it is not as smooth a surface...

Drying time on Future before the wash? I usually give it three days to let it really 'cure'/dry...

hey all,
i am new to using future also, i was wondering how you clean out your airbrush after spraying future though it?

-jerry

...another reason I don't personally use Future....

Tread.

I've always sucked at applying decals but this weekend I tried applying a decal on a half-dry coat of future and it worked wonderfully. Once the future had dried I then applied Dull-Coat and now it looks very good. I thought that dry transfers were the only way to go but now I'm thinking twice. Thanks for all of the tips, you guys are the best!

Hummm.... I let my FFW dry over night before applying a wash... I figure that's good enough as it's supposed to dry on your kitchen floor in something like 20 minutes... +/-.

There is a good article in March's FSM....should be on store shelves by Tuesday I think....but my local grocery store doesn't care and puts it out when they get it, which usually is a week before its supposed to be out.....pretty good informative article.

Decals, Future, dull coat, satin coat,....

Erhh well, I paint my markings, no problems with "silvering", no need for decal setting solutions. Just paint the stuff, seal it and weather.

Only if there is no way of painting the markings will I resort to decals. But up until now there are few markings that you can't make or get a mask for.

Looks more real too.

Kris