I just got a new Variable Speed Rotary Tool with a flex shaft and can't wait to try it on some projects I am working on.
The question I have is while reading the owners manual it says that you use settings 2-6 (5000-17,000 rpm's) depending on the job you want to do.
The question I have is these settings are for what the book calls "Laminates Plastic" is styrene considered this type of plastic?
For those who do have one of these little marvels what speeds do you mostly use on your projects??
Thanks in advance for ya'lls time
Paul

For most modeling work, the lowest (slowest) speed is the one you will use. Even at this speed, the styrene may melt, so be careful. The "plastic laminates" you ask about are likely the stuff that kitchen counter tops are made from -- stuff like Formica.

Be sure to experiment and "play with your motor tool a bit before you go at a kit. Also -- always wear eye protection!

For drilling through plastics, I use my lowest setting which is 8000 RPM. Pretty fast enough but it's the slowest I have. I haven't used it on styrene yet so better experiment it out on an wasted styrene.

Howdy warlock,

Hollowpoint is 'dead-on' . I own 4 dremel tools, one is a basic on/off style. I use it for my more 'heavy' work (i use it rarely). My 2nd is set up on a drill stand and it is a hi/low model (I use when the occasion requires it). The 3rd one is a variable speed/5-position unit that I use more often than the other two certainly, but it is still corded and sits at my bench. My 4th is far and away my favourite, it is the 'MiniMite'. Cordless, small, and easy to handle. It only has two speeds(which is fine for 90% of the work) but those speeds are jusssst a little slower than the corded models and therefore better for use with styrene.
In all these tools warlock, the thing to remember is NOT to allow the Dremel tool to become motionless for long when working with plastic, always keep it moving, kinda like playing an FPS video game . If the tool contacts the plastic in one set spot for very long at all (and believe me, it doesn't matter what setting your using) it will difinitely begin melting plastic.
HTH.

Tread.


Oh! BTW, the flex shaft is a pretty good idea, but an even better idea (IMHO), is to go out and get yourself a regular mini drill head chuck for your dremels....you know, just like the kind that comes on a 3/8's drill. The one where you can turn the knurled collar and multiple 'jaws' clamp down on the drill bit. MUCH better and easier than the 'collet' collar arrangement.

Rotary tools...I love em... I own a multispeed Proxxon .... I absolutely adore it. My other one is a Dremel, but I feel it is overpowered for the purpose I use it for. The proxxon is also variable in speed, but is far more accurate than the Dremel.

For drilling, sanding and filing plastics, I always use two other tools I rely on more....both my hands. They are the only tools that I allow to do the most delicate operations on a model....

So if you need to drill a hole in plastic.... use a sharp drill and take it by hand. Start with a small drill and use a bigger drill each time your through, just as long as you have the size of the hole you desire.

Just my two cents

I have a dremel mini-mite and it only has two speeds-(1) slow and (2) faster. I generally work with slow speed but do use faster when using a burr to remove plastic. I had never melted anything while drilling until the other night when I was detailing an engine for a 1/32 P-47. I was drilling holes so I could replace the push rods and the bit and tool melted part of the header. That had never happened before. It was salvageable though. Just be careful with melting the plastic with whatever speed you use.

I have an old variable speed Dremel that I don't think I have ever used above the "1" setting. In addition, I have an old foot pedal power cord that T plug it into. By only depressing the pedal a bit, I can slow the Dremel down to just a few revolutions per second, if I wish. It's also a good "dead man switch" -- the tool stops as soon as I take my foot off the pedal.

BTW, I also rarely use Dremel brand bits -- they are too big and coarse for most model work, in my opinion. I have some dental bits I begged from a dentist friend years ago. They are super! My favorite is a little round-headed (globe?) bit that I use for all kinds of stuff. Last night I cut out the engine screens on an Eastern Express KV hull. Quite a bit of grinding, followed by a bit of knife work and squared up with a file. Using the Dremel saved me LOTS of work.

Hollowpoint!! That is a great idea!!!!!! Just thought it through (I think). My wife is an accomplished seamstress/sewing aficionado. Her foot pedal on her sewing machine is basically a form of foot operated reostat, right? So, if I plug my corded Dremel into it, that should allow me almost unlimited speed control................gotta try that right away! (while my wife is away from the house #:-) #:-) )
She won't miss a pedal.........I hope. (++)

Tread.


BTW, I also own and use a fairly comprehensive set of dental drill bits and tools. In fact the root canal files are superb!

Hi there

I use a Minicraft MB1012 drill. I updated my setup a while back because I found even the slowest speed on my old transformer was way too fast to use safely.

I've now got a Minicraft MB751, which is adjustable down to only a few revs per minute, while maintaining excellent torque (i.e. it doesn't stop under the load).

But I'm with Eagle on this one - I use a pin-vice 9 times out of 10. It's simpler and more delicate.

All the best

Rowan

Roger that, Tread. My pedal originally belonged to a sewing machine. When the sewing machine went to the dump, the pedal migrated into my collection of stuff. BTW, I am in no way encouraging the sabotage of a sewing machine to get its foot pedal. #:-)

A warning to those who may think that any old rheostat will do -- make sure you get one that is made to handle MOTORS. There are light dimmer-switch rheostats available, but these won''t work properly with a motor tool. BTW, Dremel sells a rheostat specifically made for use with their tools -- that's probably the safest rheostat to use.

Thanks for all the responses guys. The hardware store was having a sale on it and had all the stuff mentioned i.e flex shaft and drill chuk with numerous discs and bits all included.
Haven't melted anything on a kit yet but have melted a couple pieces of scrap sprue so I have seen what can happen when you don't kep it moving #:-)
Again thanks for the responses..Now it time to go pratice somemore

................don't worry Hollowpoint, I hold you completely innocent in the entire matter! :-)

Tread.

Believe me, her wrath, you don't want!