:-) I'm running out of my prefered filler, Squadron White/Green stuff, other than this what filler do you use or more importantly, recommend. My local shops probably only stock Revell or Tamiya brands, are these any good?
Mal :-)

I use mainly the Tamiya putty and I'm quite happy with that. In the most cases i thin it with acetone for precise brush application...
Ciao

I prefer tamiya filller when i can get it. I've also used humbrol filler thats ok, but you need to leave it for weeks to really harden up.
Then theres P38 car body filler, use it all the time for big gaps........ God that stuff sticks.

The one that I use most is Tamiya. Also for me are good too: Revell, Molac and Humbrol.
Molac is very similar to Tamiya.

dont buy the testors filler..Not that great...Squadron White all the way!

milliput superfine white is pretty good.....probably not for everyone but i like it

:-) Thanks guys, the reason I like Squadron filler is because it dries so fast (30 mins). Is Timiya filler quick drying? :-)
Mal

Hi Mal

I've used Revell and Humbrol and they sand down nice and smooth, but they're both definately slower than Squadron.

Obviously Superglue is great for plenty of filler jobs, but another really handy filler is Vallejo 400 Plastic Putty - an acrylic filler. It's very smooth and dries quickly. It doesn't contain a solvent, which is a plus sometimes. You can remove it with nail-varnish remover on a cotton bud - this doesn't attack the plastic either and is handy for places where sanding will be a problem. (Beware trying it after you've painted though!!)

All the best

Rowan

Try this, and you'll chuck all your other putty in the trash: mix medium viscosity CA approx 50/50 with talcum powder, 'til you get the consistency of runny toothpaste ( I pour the talc on a vinyl-type coffee can/margarine tub lid, drop the CA into it, and mix the talc into the CA letting the CA be my "limiting factor" on how much filler is produced at one time). Apply the composite to your seam, ejector pin mark, gap, smooth it, wait 15 min, and start sanding! Apply it sparingly, however, as it doesn't shrink like other putty. You can also wait 15 days to sand, as it doesn't get harder the longer it cures, and it works on resin as well as plastic. It doesn't soften thin (vac) plastic like petroleum based putty does, and actually adds structural integrity, so you don't have to back large gaps with plastic . Evidently the "Car Guys" have been using this for years to do major bodywork alterations on their models. To see how well "Supafilla" (my name for it) works, carve/gouge a dime-sized hole in some 40 thou plastic sheet, fill the hole w/ Supafilla, and sand both sides. When you're done I think you'll be pleasantly suprised. Regards, Rob

Hi ZoomieE7

That sounds fantastic! I've only ever used Superglue (CA) neat - with that you apparently to have be quick with the sanding (30 mins max?), or the filler goes much harder than the surrounding plastic.

I'll definitely try your SuperFiller on my next model! (Too late for the one I'm on.)

Cheers

Rowan

:-) Thanks ZoomieE7, I think I will give that a try. :-)

Rowan, where do you get Vallejo 400 from?

Mal

Sometimes I use CA too. For very small bubbles to fill (the one on resin kits for instance) I use the standard one. For bigger ones I first put in the CA (standard) and then sprinkle over it the talc powder. It dries almost instantly and can be easily sanded. Anyway for small gaps on injection plastic, I prefer Tamiya/Molak putty. Diluted to the right consistency with acetone I can have great control during application (by brush). Once dried often I don't sand it but I just soak the brush in absolute acetone and smooth down the inperfections...
Ciao

Hi Mal

Scoccia's post has reminded me! I've got a bottle of "homebrew" which is handy stuff. I mixed Humbrol filler into a bottle of Humbrol liquid cement. It dries MUCH quicker than the neat filler, and you can apply it with a small brush along seams etc.

I've also got some JP filler. It's pale green and dries quickly. I can't remember where I bought it though...

I got the Vallejo filler (and paint) from:

Art Express (www.artexpress.co.uk) t. 0113 2436996

Get their catalogue - there's plenty of good stuff in there...

All these Superglue tips sound great... I'm going to do some tests today!

Cheers all

Rowan

The Testors putty is very difficult to work with.

Hi Mal, et al.,

I am trying to get away from toxic products as much as I can. Here is my experience.

I tried to fill gaps and seams with epoxy. It worked great! Slather it on and simply wipe away with babywipes or a soft cloth moistened with alchohol (I've used both rubbing and isopropyl (spelling?) and can't tell a difference). To much alchohol will wash epoxy away, and/or leave little gobs of it.

Baby wipes and alch do not leave residue, does not obscure detail, the epoxy is smooth and level with the plastic (so long as you don't push hard), and if there is the 2% of time need to sand, it sands. VERY pleased with the results. Con: mixing is messy. but so is mixing putties with solvants.

I read an English air model magazine. The man built Tamiya's Lancaster and had to fill the nacelle/wing joints. He used Tamiya putty and immediately wiped it away with acetone ?aceatate?-- whatever fingernail polish remover is. He reported the putty came right up, was smooth in seam, no sanding, and didn't obscure/corrupt the plastic and detail. I tried this and didn't quite get the same great results, though I will try again.

All the best,

Fred

Depending on the size of the gap. Someitmes good old elmer's glue work well. If the gap is too small for the glue out of the bottle you can thin it with water.
It dries clear and can be smoothed with a damp q-tip dipped in water. Most times sanding not required and takes the pigment of paint so well that touch ups are not even necessary most of the time and it won't mar or melt the plactic if it goes where it isn't suppose to. Just wipe it off with a damp cloth and go.
But best of all it is real cheap and cleans up easily.
HTH
Paul

Hi everyone,

Just to report that I've had a chance to try ZoomieE7 and Scoccia's CA+talc suggestions and they work brilliantly! "Supafilla" is superb! As well as filling gaps, it's thick enough to use for wing-fillets or building up major profile changes. It dries quickly and sands much easier than neat CA.

One word of warning: if you're only used to working with small amounts of CA, watch out for the fumes... they make your eyes sting (as I found out)!!

All the best

Rowan

just to back porky up on the Art Express reccommendation,they carry all the Vallejo Model Air and Model Color ranges,as well as a whole load of art products,they are fab!

Sorry, never got back to this thread. I bought some Revell filler, it's very thin dries in a reasonable time and sands easily. I haven't yet had a chance to use "supa-filla" but will some time soon. :-)
Thanks again for your imput
Mal

Hey all,
I gave up on all that expensive "model" stuff and use automotive spot/glazing putty. It's only about $3 for a huge tube and it works on everything from filling gaps and seams, to zimmerit, and even mudd efeects as long as it's painted well.

I use Squadron Putty most of the time ( Green and White ) green for heavy jobs, white for light, but being really cheap I keep a tub of Dry wall Mud / Putty around. If you look closely at the label, on most of the new Wall Putty, it's plastic not plaster. It has a longer drying time than the others ( usually overnite ), but is really easy to work, thins with water so when you wet sand the area you get some extra fill benefits. Being very porous you have to seal it with Future or Lac before you paint or it will soak up you paint like a sponge. But, all in all it work pretty well in a pinch. I get alot of use out of it, as it works easier than Plaster of Paris, I use it for concrete runways, building walls, as well as a filler, have even used it as mud, duh Non toxic and adheres to the plastic well without attacking it, major drawback is you have to seal it well.

Steve,
If it is the Testors in the gray tube, thin with rubbing alcohol.
I have been using the Model Master red putty. For shallow fills, try the liquid white-out. This is/was used for typewriting correction. (Does anyone use a typewriter any more?) LOL

I just use Elmer's glue. Very long process but it really works.

If anyoneis intrested, Home-Town Hobbies has the Vallejo Putty.

I have absolute faith in Tamiya products. But if they are scarce or costly, here are alternatives:

1. Elmer's Wood filler. It's water-soluble and easy to clean off (a wet q-tip) to minimize sanding.
2. Wall filler. Water-soluble too. Also good for making Zimmerit armor.
3. (Glasurit) auto body filler.

I don't know if this has reached your shores, Gunze has introduced a jar of Dissolved Putty. Easier to apply with a brush. no need to look for thinner or solvent to soften that tube of putty you got.

Ron