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Bringing Out the Details



Color. My general rule for drybrush color is start with the base color and add 20% white. If you’re color is Interior Green add about 20% white or just enough to lighten it to the naked eye. I usually mix this in the paint lid with the paint that’s stuck up there. Usually you can just dip your brush in some white and mix it in and it’s just about right. You want a nice soft round brush, maybe a 0 or 1. Dip the tip of your brush into your color; just want paint on the tip. Take your brush and wipe it off with some tissue just like you want it clean, you can also wipe it off on some paper till almost no paint is left. Now you’re ready to drybrush. You want to use your brush as if you’re wiping dust off the details-very lightly. Move the brush back and forth across the details. The rough surface of the dullcoat will pull small amounts of remaining pigment off the brush. Remember a little is a lot. It may take to or 3 applications until the effect is apparent. You also may, at some point, need to use a smaller brush to get into areas that are surrounded by high spots keeping the other brush from accessing that area. The effect should be subtle. If you think you’ve overdone it you may drybrush again with the base color. This first drybrushing has brought out the raised details by making them lighter than the base color. This first drybrushing also encompassed the entire area, all the details.
Now we’ll drybrush again. This time we’ll add a bit more white, let’s say well add another 20% or so, bringing it to 40% white. Drybrush as before except this time even more lightly and only on the most raised areas.

 

About the Author

About Mike Taylor (modelguy2)
FROM: OHIO, UNITED STATES


Comments

Ah, so that how you do it, eh? I guess I underestimated the importance of clear coats in washes. I tried one on my M60A2.... lets just say no one other than my parents will ever see that model again. Now, if someone'll make an article about figure painting I'd have most of the basics covered! YodaMan Go Red Wings!!!
APR 25, 2002 - 08:56 PM
Interesting Article I will have to try it out. Thanks DAGGER: A weapon with a short pointed Blade "THE CUTTING EDGE"
APR 25, 2002 - 09:21 PM
O.K., you wanted to discuss the article right? A very nice article modelguy2, aka, Mike Taylor. Written in an easy-going style that is quite enjoyable. I am constantly having that battle though. Enamels vs. acrylics. I like the colour availablity in the enamels (humbrol for example). But I prefer the ease and speed of the acrylics ( when I finally get the time to sit down and model, I really have to take advantage of that time). As to washes, I used pretty much the same technique as your article discribes, sans the Q-tip. I would have another brush that was immediately handy and 'dry wipe' off any extra residue with it. I finally discovered (after much deliberation) oil washes. I have never really 'gone back'. The richness of the oil pigments only adds to the colour variation as a whole, and the 'working time' of the oils allows a degree of control that is just simply not present in either enamels or acrylics. Your mention of using the washes to create shadowing, especially in illustrating the 'correct' way in which a shadow would fall (away from windows) is a small, but very important point. The eye will subconciously pick up little things like that that are wrong. Good call Mike. A well written article, difinitely prize material. Tread.
APR 25, 2002 - 10:03 PM
That is a good article. Well done Mike. I wish that article was available about 3 or 4 months ago!
APR 25, 2002 - 10:48 PM
I updated this story with part 2 so that it would meet the contest's 1000 word requirement. Airbrushing is covered in part 2. Jim
APR 27, 2002 - 07:04 AM
Very well written article Mike! A couple new ideas for me. And all those models. :-)
APR 27, 2002 - 07:32 AM
Mike, a well written, well spoken, and excellent instruction of how to use these 2 techniques, that are a must do for creating a realistic & accurate finish on any model. These techniques are what makes the difference between a great model or having one with a toy like appearance - like I said, they are a "must do". Also great models ! They show your talent & skill & are proof of what results one can achieve by your article. I Agree - Definitely a prize winning article ! GREAT JOB MIKE ! - ralph
MAY 18, 2002 - 03:50 PM
Yoda - Get over to my house, and I'll help you out first hand. What do like painting with Enamels or acrylics ? - I have an excellent article I can email you on painting faces with acrylics by Lynn Kessler. But I myself like oils & enamels. - ralph
MAY 18, 2002 - 03:56 PM
Good article covering the basics.Myself I use oils for all my washes as wellas drybrushing. I should add that it's on top of acrylic base coat, mainly for their longer work time and richness of color. Would love to see a comprehencive article on 1/35 figure painting
JUN 23, 2004 - 10:38 AM
Great article, looking forward to the next one.
JUN 23, 2004 - 02:29 PM