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Table Saw / Cutting Plastic
yellobelli
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Member Since: October 22, 2002
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Posted: Monday, January 13, 2003 - 02:57 PM UTC
Anyone know the particulars of ripping plastic with a table saw? I've looked at both full size and micro saws. I know that a high tooth count is preferable as is something a bit slower (in the 2-3K rpm range) to avoid melting/burning. Would a 160 tooth blade at 4800 rpm just destroy plastic/styrene stock?

I'm working on a scratchbuilt project that will require a lot of ripping and crosscutting. There are a number of pieces with complex angles as well. As such, I know that I'm going to need some sort of table saw. I am just torn at paying the expensive prices that the hobby saws command (for ones with blades that angle) when I can get a full size one for 1/4 of the cost.

Opinions? Thoughts? Desires to call me loony?
Hollowpoint
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Posted: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 01:28 AM UTC
It sounds like you are on the right track, but unfortunately I don't have a definitive answer for you. I think the main thing would be to get the high tooth-count blade and take it slow (both blade rpm and stock feed rate). I assume you are talking about cutting some thick stock -- .040-inch and thicker -- otherwise, you'd probably be better off just using a scribing method.

BTW, I've known some guys who have done major scratchbuilding projects -- like an LCT in 1/35th scale -- and they rarely had to use anything as big as a table saw to cut plastic. On the other hand, if you are using plexiglass or lexan for any parts, the power tools would certainly be useful, at least for roughing out.

You may want to see if there is a plastic fabrication business somewhere in your area and see what they use. If you explain that you are a serious hobbyist, they might give you a tour of the back shop area and let you in on a few "secrets."
yellobelli
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Posted: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:33 AM UTC
As a clarification: My project is a large scale RC - some of my panels are 17 x 30. The main reason I am looking at a powered saw rather than lots of elbow grease are the complex angles that I have to cut the facing edges into so that two adjoining panels will rest flushly. (Think of an M1A1 and the lack of 90 degree joins...and no, I'm not working on an M1A1) My panels are between 1/8 and 1/4" thickness, depending on the need for structural strength. I will also be angling (lengthwise) 1/2" square stock to provide additional support/bonding welds inside the model.

I just don't know of a way to do this without a table saw of some sort.
matt
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Posted: Tuesday, January 14, 2003 - 02:56 AM UTC
If using a tablesaw (or any large saw for that matter) use a 150+ tooth plywood blade.
The trick is to put the blade in BACKWARDS. yes Backwards. Feed slowly to prevent chipout. (I hope it's not plexiglass as it's to fragile to do this I think) I've done thins w/ vinyl Siding and some ABS A slower rpm would help.
modelnut4
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Posted: Sunday, January 19, 2003 - 01:51 PM UTC
Hey Yellobelli,
The hot tip I have seen done for years by a friend of mine who owned a Plastics shop is to get your hot little hands on a Dremel plug in model speed controller. He has had two of them and they went for lots of years in a dusty hot environment, Phoenix, and when he sold his business, he took them home with him. He bought an entry level type, read that as cheap, jig saw, the super high blade counts are easy to get, they usually lasted about six to eight months, cutting at slow speeds, The motors took the abuse that long in a commercial environment. An added benefit is the T bar you can stick in the base to make long runs on more than one sheet. Just one thing, he had to drill this into every one of the guys that worked for him, let the tool do the work for you, don't force it. When the blade stops cutting and just makes a gooey spot in the plastic, its time to change it out.
Using your Table Saw is not really reccommended, It's far too fast to give you a cut on 1/4 inch stuff without melting it's way through. And no, you can't plug the Table saw into the converter and dial it down. The little jig saw brush motor has nothing in common to the table saw's capacitor start 1/2 horsepower up to whatever your wallet could afford when you got the table saw. The capacitor stores up a jolt to fire the motor up and then the units current demand drops until you put the material to be cut in, that's when the juice really flows. About all you'd likely do is burn up the capacitor and fry the contacts in your table saw motor, in no amount of time, if it would work at all.
Okay I'll get off my soapbox and crawl back in the dark again. Hope that helps your project out.

Jay
Las Vegas
warlock0322
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Posted: Tuesday, February 18, 2003 - 12:45 AM UTC
Have you looked into a scoll saw. Don't know if the clearance would be there for ya, but for cutting angles and curves it may be better than the big boys
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