Tools & Supplies
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Super Glue: Gel or liqued
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Antwerpen, Belgium
Member Since: June 09, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 02:19 PM UTC

most of us use super glue to glue PE on thei models, but some use the gel type others the liqued variant.

why is that? is there is advantige by using this or that or does one type has a oither usage/function compared to the other??

wich do you use and why?
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New York, United States
Member Since: February 28, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 04:10 PM UTC
The only one that I think is a try Liquid is the "Thin" type... the rest are more of a Gel. The Thin is great when the Joint is Tite and Capillary action works.... The others are more of a Gap filling......

I have a bottle of both.... but use the thicker stuff more....

(I tend to leave fingerprints with the really thin stuff...)
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North Carolina, United States
Member Since: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 04:15 PM UTC
Its a functional thing. As Matt said - thin is good for tight areas. Thick fills gaps.
Past that I thinks its personal preference.
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Donegal, Ireland
Member Since: May 14, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 04:58 PM UTC
Another function reason is that the gel type gives a little more time to move and fix the poition than the thin stuff. I like the gel stuff better as I believe it gives better grip. As its more 3D than liquid, when two halves are placed together, it fills into all cracks and forms itself between both halves.
I use loctite gel and liquid.The gel is in a small tube, the liquid in a small bottle.
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Pennsylvania, United States
Member Since: July 13, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 05:20 PM UTC
Greetings, Ronnie!
In addition to what Matt, Scott, and Frank has said, I'll give you another reason...I just finished building a white metal/resin armor kit last week, and used both thin and gel in the build...there were some instances in the build where the thick stuff was the only choice that would hold (metal to metal on heavier parts) and vice versa...personally, I use three different types (thin, medium, and thick) and have found that you have to assess the situation and use the proper adhesive for the best performance (Geez, that sounds a little too technical, but it works!) Hope this helps some, mate!
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Kansas, United States
Member Since: April 07, 2005
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Posted: Saturday, June 03, 2006 - 06:00 PM UTC
Hi Ronnie:

I read the all the previous thread in answer to your
question and I think they covered the topic rather well;
'cepptin for one last thing I'd like to mention.

I used both liquid CA and gel CA for years before I
bought a bottle of excellerator. It comes with a spray
pump. More on that in a mo. Let's just go back to liquid
CA and using it with excellerator. The thing is, liquid CA
can become a gap filling glue if you touch it with a drop
of excellerator (Zap kicker is one of the names for
excellerator) because the "kicker" makes the CA ex-
pand and bubble up to cover more area. And the kicker
makes whatever amount of CA you apply harden real
fast and very hard. Some do NOT think so, but you can
sand and polish it. So yes, the thin CA used with the
"kicker" can be zap filling and it dries/hardens super
fast. You can also buy a liquid that will negate the CA,
or cause the parts to separate, in case of a big mistake.

Now, lastly, I use a length of piano wire with a wood dowel
"handle" to apply the "kicker" instead of the spray pump.
For one thing, the kicker "ain't cheap" so a lot is wasted
using the spray pump. I dip the piano wire "tool" down
into the bottle and then tip the glued plastic piece in such a
way that when I touch the drop of "kicker" just above
where the CA glue is, gravity causes the "kicker" to
travel downward into the CA glue. Doing it this way
the piano wire "tool" doesn't get glued into the CA.
Like anything else in life. . . . or in modeling, we learn
by doing. You would want to practice on something
that is a "spare". I've been using the same bottle of
"kicker" for over four years. A little goes a long way.