Hey all
Was reading a modelling mag today which featured a simple way to make bolts of varying sizes.
1) Take a lump of clay/putty etc. about 2" by 1" deep.
2)Press a flat shape into top, to form a hollow with flat bottom.
3) take a set of Allen keys, using all sizes. The smaller the better!
4)Push ends in to required depth.
5) Use commercially available resin to pour in to mould.
6) Once set, peel off mould and cut to size!!
Voila!
Couldn't be simpler...
Brad
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Making bolts easily
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 - 11:40 PM UTC
bilko
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Posted: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 - 11:55 PM UTC
Brad
Yes I saw this in ModelArt too. Looks interesting enough that I might have a go at it. Although I am not really enough of a rivet counter to mind if some bolts are missing.
Brian
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 - 11:58 PM UTC
yep, a simple method....
here's another....
get some really small set screws of various sizes, epoxy to a board, heat a piece of sprue, and push into set screw, let cool, and remove..... slice as needed.
you can usually find the really small sizes in the RC aircraft department of the LHS.
here's another....
get some really small set screws of various sizes, epoxy to a board, heat a piece of sprue, and push into set screw, let cool, and remove..... slice as needed.
you can usually find the really small sizes in the RC aircraft department of the LHS.
keenan
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 12:43 AM UTC
Having a couple of "Why didn't I think of that?" moments.
Thanks Dave and Bradley.
I will be raiding the wife's Sculpy supplies tonight to try a minor variation.
Shaun
/slaps forehead
Thanks Dave and Bradley.
I will be raiding the wife's Sculpy supplies tonight to try a minor variation.
Shaun
/slaps forehead
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 02:58 AM UTC
You can also find Hex rod in different sizes at the LHS, made by Plastruct. Simply slice them as needed. A few rods will last for quite a long time.
Cuhail
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 05:20 AM UTC
Gino, man, how on earth can going to the LHS be easier that a 4 or 5 step process using much more expensive material?
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
I kill me!
Cuhail
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
I kill me!
Cuhail
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 06:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Gino, man, how on earth can going to the LHS be easier that a 4 or 5 step process using much more expensive material?
:-) :-) :-) :-) :-)
I kill me!
Cuhail
I know, I know. But you can always tell people you had to make them in 4 or 5 steps and it took you forever, etc., etc.
Why make it harder than it has to be though!!!
:-)
Sabot
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 06:22 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I agree with Gino that this is the simplest way by far.You can also find Hex rod in different sizes at the LHS, made by Plastruct. Simply slice them as needed. A few rods will last for quite a long time.
I originally made bolt heads by shaving off bolt detail from old kits and spare parts.
Then I used Grandt Line bolt heads.
Then I started using the pre-made resin ones by Legends and other manufacturers.
Then I started using the Eduard PE frets that would include various hex head holes that you pushed a heated sprue through.
Then I started using the extra bolt detail included on the sprue of Academy kits like the M3 and M3A1 Stuarts.
The hex rod is hands down the easiest way. Just slice the rod up to what ever thickness you desire and attach with regular liquid cement. I can make dozens this way in minutes.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 08:20 AM UTC
I think the idea was to discuss other ways of doing something......
Lets see.... a lump of clay.... probably laying around if you got kids.....FREE-already paid for
a set of hex keys------ probably laying around if you have any sort of mechanical abilities.... FREE-already paid for and probably well used.
RESIN---- 5 minute epoxy....... probably in a real modelers tool box already.
Lets see...... Set screws..... FREE.... probably in a box or bag, collected along the way.... if you have any mechanical abilities. Along with the Allen Wrenches....
Sprue..... FREE..... if you are a real modeler......
Lets see..... HEX ROD.......
cost $2.00US on average a package, or about $4AUS.....
$20.00US Minimum plus shipping, minimum US shipping $10.00US..... air to Australia Minimum...... $20.00 US.........
OH.... I order from PLASTIC STRUT all the time.....
my last order cost me $70.00 including shipping...... for rods, hex and round..... that would be about $120US to OZ.
OH I also ship packages to OZ all the time..... I am well in tuned to the shipping cost there....... and well aware as to some of the extremely high prices on many of the simpler modeling items we take for granted here, that are extremely expensive, and a luxury down there.
Not everyone has the LHS around the corner..... or cheap postage....... so your $2.00US package of hex rod here, cost over $5.00US down there. If they can find it.
Which reminds me..... I need to start my Christmas shopping for my Uncle, and Nephew who live down that way........ OH that's right.... shipping from the US takes 10 to 14 days...... not 10 to 14 weeks........ LOL LMAO
I'm off my soap box now.
Lets see.... a lump of clay.... probably laying around if you got kids.....FREE-already paid for
a set of hex keys------ probably laying around if you have any sort of mechanical abilities.... FREE-already paid for and probably well used.
RESIN---- 5 minute epoxy....... probably in a real modelers tool box already.
Lets see...... Set screws..... FREE.... probably in a box or bag, collected along the way.... if you have any mechanical abilities. Along with the Allen Wrenches....
Sprue..... FREE..... if you are a real modeler......
Lets see..... HEX ROD.......
cost $2.00US on average a package, or about $4AUS.....
$20.00US Minimum plus shipping, minimum US shipping $10.00US..... air to Australia Minimum...... $20.00 US.........
OH.... I order from PLASTIC STRUT all the time.....
my last order cost me $70.00 including shipping...... for rods, hex and round..... that would be about $120US to OZ.
OH I also ship packages to OZ all the time..... I am well in tuned to the shipping cost there....... and well aware as to some of the extremely high prices on many of the simpler modeling items we take for granted here, that are extremely expensive, and a luxury down there.
Not everyone has the LHS around the corner..... or cheap postage....... so your $2.00US package of hex rod here, cost over $5.00US down there. If they can find it.
Which reminds me..... I need to start my Christmas shopping for my Uncle, and Nephew who live down that way........ OH that's right.... shipping from the US takes 10 to 14 days...... not 10 to 14 weeks........ LOL LMAO
I'm off my soap box now.
HeavyArty
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 09:25 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I think the idea was to discuss other ways of doing something......
Lets see.... a lump of clay.... probably laying around if you got kids.....FREE-already paid for
a set of hex keys------ probably laying around if you have any sort of mechanical abilities.... FREE-already paid for and probably well used.
RESIN---- 5 minute epoxy....... probably in a real modelers tool box already.
Lets see...... Set screws..... FREE.... probably in a box or bag, collected along the way.... if you have any mechanical abilities. Along with the Allen Wrenches....
Sprue..... FREE..... if you are a real modeler......
Lets see..... HEX ROD.......
cost $2.00US on average a package, or about $4AUS.....
$20.00US Minimum plus shipping, minimum US shipping $10.00US..... air to Australia Minimum...... $20.00 US.........
OH.... I order from PLASTIC STRUT all the time.....
my last order cost me $70.00 including shipping...... for rods, hex and round..... that would be about $120US to OZ.
OH I also ship packages to OZ all the time..... I am well in tuned to the shipping cost there....... and well aware as to some of the extremely high prices on many of the simpler modeling items we take for granted here, that are extremely expensive, and a luxury down there.
Not everyone has the LHS around the corner..... or cheap postage....... so your $2.00US package of hex rod here, cost over $5.00US down there. If they can find it.
Which reminds me..... I need to start my Christmas shopping for my Uncle, and Nephew who live down that way........ OH that's right.... shipping from the US takes 10 to 14 days...... not 10 to 14 weeks........ LOL LMAO
I'm off my soap box now.
Dave, stop being a Grumpy Old Man and chill out. You may be exagerating slightly.
Still think it is cheaper/easier to get the hex rod from a hobby shop. I don't really have a LHS either. The closest one to me is 3 hours away. I just pick them up when I get the chance. I'm sure there are well stocked hobby shops down under as well.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 03:34 PM UTC
:-) :-) It's the old age Gino...... LOL :-) :-)
Jenny
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 04:11 PM UTC
Hey you stop picking on my Dave or I will have to come over there & put you all in your places Now Dave if they give you any more trouble you come & see me you sweet sweet man
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 - 08:46 PM UTC
Hmpfh. Should I have made all my random steps into 1 for ease of digestion and less criticism?
bilko
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 01:56 AM UTC
Gino & Murphy
Dave is right there about the costs etc. and while I take on board what you say about an occasional visit to a well stocked LHS - Evergreen and Plastruct don't seem to be well stocked in the LHS's that I can occasionally get to visit.
I know that I am off to the optometrist soon to get the Mark 1 eyeballs tested again but to be honest I have never seen hex rod in any shop I have visited
That may be one reason why the article Brad was referring to was in an Oz modelling mag.
Brian
Dave is right there about the costs etc. and while I take on board what you say about an occasional visit to a well stocked LHS - Evergreen and Plastruct don't seem to be well stocked in the LHS's that I can occasionally get to visit.
I know that I am off to the optometrist soon to get the Mark 1 eyeballs tested again but to be honest I have never seen hex rod in any shop I have visited
That may be one reason why the article Brad was referring to was in an Oz modelling mag.
Brian
wampum
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 03:33 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Having a couple of "Why didn't I think of that?" moments.
I do echo the same words.
Hopefuly I'm not a rivet counter either. But it's nice to know "how to" tricks always. Thanks for the tips
straightedge
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 04:14 AM UTC
Hasn't anybody else ever noticed, even on the biggest bolt heads, that I've never noticed anybody putting on grade marks, on even the biggest bolt heads, to where they could fit.
Now all I have ever noticed was smooth bolt heads, never any grade marks, has this come to anybody else's attention.
Anybody know why they never put any grade marks on any of the bolt heads?
Kerry
Now all I have ever noticed was smooth bolt heads, never any grade marks, has this come to anybody else's attention.
Anybody know why they never put any grade marks on any of the bolt heads?
Kerry
Kencelot
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 04:43 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Anybody know why they never put any grade marks on any of the bolt heads?
Kerry
Kerry, I think that would border on insanity.
Sabot
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 04:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I do not think anyone is criticizing your newly discovered method, just informing you of easier ways to replicate bolt head detail.Hmpfh. Should I have made all my random steps into 1 for ease of digestion and less criticism?
All money/supply/availability factors aside, slicing a hex rod with an X-Acto knife is by far the easiest method.
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Thursday, November 10, 2005 - 09:12 AM UTC
Grade marks..... :-) :-)
Most people don't even know what they are...... :-) :-)
Next will be looking for the little stamped, molded F on jeeps to see if it is an accurate Ford...... :-) :-) (we really do need a "rolling on floor dude"..... )
If you are cutting yours from Hex stock, I persoanlly have found that a double edge razor blades works best. (These are a lot sharper than #11's, and single edges, I put a lip of cardboard and tape over the top sharp edge to keep the red stuff inside) Gently rolling over the hex stock and it usually will come apart better and straighter than the usual angle cut that happens from too much pressure. Let the blade do the work, not pressure.
Maybe I'll convince the Jedi to open an importing business..... "Hex&MV B us"........ :-) :-)
Most people don't even know what they are...... :-) :-)
Next will be looking for the little stamped, molded F on jeeps to see if it is an accurate Ford...... :-) :-) (we really do need a "rolling on floor dude"..... )
If you are cutting yours from Hex stock, I persoanlly have found that a double edge razor blades works best. (These are a lot sharper than #11's, and single edges, I put a lip of cardboard and tape over the top sharp edge to keep the red stuff inside) Gently rolling over the hex stock and it usually will come apart better and straighter than the usual angle cut that happens from too much pressure. Let the blade do the work, not pressure.
Maybe I'll convince the Jedi to open an importing business..... "Hex&MV B us"........ :-) :-)
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Friday, November 11, 2005 - 03:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I do not think anyone is criticizing your newly discovered method, just informing you of easier ways to replicate bolt head detail.
All money/supply/availability factors aside, slicing a hex rod with an X-Acto knife is by far the easiest method.
Yeah just having a lark... Truth be told though, in my search I have not uncovered stock of hex rod by Plastruct or Evergreen in my LHSs as per what Bilko pointed out. Visted a model rail shop
who stocked more of this than any, and was informed that they could get it in from US via the Aus. supplier, but the mark up would be to about $7AU... Hence any other cobbled together ideas...
Cheers
Bradley
Cuhail
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Posted: Friday, November 11, 2005 - 05:41 PM UTC
Wow, I've been here almost 2 years and still my silly sense of humor get the dander up!
I would never rip on anyones new ideas brought to the table here at Armorama. This IS the place for such ideas to be traded and learned. I will take the chance EVERYTIME to make you guys laugh.
So freaking laugh or I'll run you over with a Mk IV!
:-)
Cuhail
I would never rip on anyones new ideas brought to the table here at Armorama. This IS the place for such ideas to be traded and learned. I will take the chance EVERYTIME to make you guys laugh.
So freaking laugh or I'll run you over with a Mk IV!
:-)
Cuhail
HONEYCUT
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Posted: Friday, November 11, 2005 - 05:58 PM UTC
Murphy- You don't have to justify a sense of humour!!
I appreciate it as a quality more than any. Don't know that it is offence taken by some, but more a misconstrued dig at their pride.
Although if I never hear the word hexrod again it'll be too soon :-) :-) :-)
Cheers
Bradley
I appreciate it as a quality more than any. Don't know that it is offence taken by some, but more a misconstrued dig at their pride.
Although if I never hear the word hexrod again it'll be too soon :-) :-) :-)
Cheers
Bradley
Cuhail
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Posted: Friday, November 11, 2005 - 07:17 PM UTC
Ummmmmm....
Hexrod
Cuhail
Hexrod
Cuhail
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Saturday, November 12, 2005 - 12:54 AM UTC
Perhaps I'll invest in the importation of HEXROD to an exclusive distributor in small supply, thus him and I making vast fortunes, to finance my trip to OZ someday. :-) :-) along with MV lenses..... :-) :-)
Posted: Saturday, March 25, 2006 - 10:39 PM UTC
The problem with slicing /hex or rod is it can be difficult to get square cuts- As for me my time is worth MONEY- try these - http://www.hlj.com/hljlist2/?Maker1=KBY&MacroType=OptKit&GenreCode=Sci&Dis=2