Hello,

What would people suggest as far as a modelling putty and cement? Tamiya?

Thanks,
Andy

Here's a link to a former thread here on Armorama on the subject. Hopefully this will help in your search

https://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/406&page=1

Myself I use Ethyl Acetate as glue mainly, but Superglue and white glue are useful too! Testors Grey Putty works well for me. I have Milliput, but I find it difficult to work with.

I generally use Squadron White putty. It's easier to cover up when you start painting.

Andy, I use Model Master's liquid cement and Squadrons white putty. The MM's cement is very nice with it's "hypo" type applicator needle. And Squadrons because it dries fairly quickly without shrinkage.

Since the Topic is called ' Putty & Cement', I'll squeeze in a little ABC question here.
When I'm using liquid cement to glue my plastic pieces together, I have had very good luck with applying just a little of it to the 'glueing' surfaces. I then wait about 15-20 seconds to allow the applied glue to dry slightly and begin the softening of the plastic itself, then I reapply another application of the glue to the same surfaces and press the pieces together.
Not only does this give me a very good bond between the two surfaces, but it also allows me to slowly insure that any and all seam lines line up, and actually serves to ever so slightly 'fill' any imperfections in the gap between the two pieces.
My question to the group is; I'm I being a little too anal in the assembly process here or should I just 'slap' it together?

Thx, Tread.

(Just hoping some of the newbies are listening )

Nahhh! One can never be too anal when assembling their models!

For me, I just apply the cement to the full length of a piece once. Just afraid if the glue spills out of the seam and onto the models surface it's more difficult to clean, and can cause damage to the plastic. I'd rather use a seam filler to fix any gaps than to have cement do it.

I use Squadron White Stuff, Green Stuff, Testors Liquid, and tried Tamiya Extra Fine liquid cement. I even still find uses for the Testors tube cement in both the red and blue tubes. I also use the Model Masters red putty. I find that the red and green putty sand smoother than the white, but I use the white as filler for Tamiya's motorization holes. The tube cement is used to glue a flat piece of sprue (usually a part that had a number on it) to the inside of the hull backing the hole, then I fill the hole from the outside, and smooth.

What's the difference between Squadron's white and green putty? I've got the white stuff.

YodaMan

According to Squadron's catalog: "Squadron White Putty is a fine grain filler...The white color makes it easier to paint over without primer."

I have only tried the red model master putty and have been happy with it. I usualy use super glue on almost everything now for cement. I did pick up some tamiy extra fine liquid cement I am going to try on my next model.

For those who have tried the red model master and squadron putty I have a question for you. Which one seems to be harder. I do like the model master but it is much softer and easier to sand when dry compared to plastic and sometime I take to much off. If the squadron dries harder I would like to give it a try so please fill me in. I am also considering using super glue to fill seems. If anyone has any other suggestions for something harder than red model master for filling seems go ahead and throw them my way. Thanks.

Squadron Green stuff dries hardest IMHO. Next time you order from Squadron (need a March flyer?) add a tube to your order, only like $2.50 a tube. Always good to give something a try for yourself and formulate your own opinion.

Ok, since we are in Putty and Cement...

Any insight into a good working material for Zimmerit coating? I have tried various no-name brands of putty, basically just not Squadron or Tamiya. I can not, for the life of me, get it to look right. It either dries to "chunky" looking or dries far too thin looking.
I have a set of Tamiya zimmerit application blades, but they are pretty worthless. Had them for awhile. They seem to just drag whatever putty I've chosen across the surface, removing putty as it goes.

Lucas Freeman,
Brunswick, Maine

Tony Greenland seems to like Milliput as Zimmerit. Takes practice though, you will need to keep it wet to extend the working time. A friend of mine in the US (Chappy_JU87, also a member of this forum) uses Zimm-it-rite. This is also a waterbase epoxy putty. He liked it a lot and mistakes were easy to correct. Have not tried zimmerit myself yet, I have not built a lot of German WWII armor. But I might try it on my Revell (Germany) Jagdpanther.

Bluefalcon--

Hey thanks for the suggestions. Especially about the Zimm-it-rite. I hadn't heard about that. I'll see if I can dig some up. I have never liked doing Zimmerit on my models because of all the hardships I have had with it. But I have been reading German armor books like mad lately (Panzer Aces, The Panzers and the Battle of Normandy, Steel Rain) and I realized that late in the war, nearly every single armored vehicle photographed had it.

So figured I'd try again...

Hi There!
I use, for myself, Squadron Green Putty ( but I think it thends to shrink a little), and for glue I do like to use the Testor liquid glue and all sorts of super glues (cianocrilato types, and the gel type is very usefull).
Cheers!

i use
White glue
Testors liqued cement
Revell cement (with needle)
and for putty i use Revell PLASTO, very good stuff. and also oridinary wood filler sometimes.

Saw this thread and thought I'd drop my .02 cent worth in. I have used Squadron Green and White putties. The White was used for Zimmeritt on a Jagdpanther and a Tiger. Just had to take it one small step at a time and keep the tool (in my case a small screwdriver) dipped into some Testors liquid cement everyso often to cut down on the putty sticking. The green was used for soemseam filling and promptly thrown away. It shrinks too much for my taste. Testors red putty is what I use now. Can be thinned down with liquid cement and applied with an old paint brush to tight spots and dries quickly. Not sure if it is the same as Dr. Microtools red putty, but the consistency of it is the same to me . I saw some one mention using putty for motorization hole filling. 2 part resin like Alumilite cuts the time down greatly. Simply tape over the hole from the out side, mix you resin or casting plastic and pour in from the inside. Once it is cured, the holes are filled. If there are any air hole/ bubbles, throw some putty on them and your in business. Weld on/ Tenax 7R/Testors Liquid/ Numerous CA glues all occupy a spot on the work bench for me. ok, I'm done now... lol "Q"

I dunno if this is available in your locale, try Gunze's Mr. Dissolved Putty. It's already thinned putty. If you want it a lot thinner, mix some thinner on it.

Tamiya's also good. If you have no thinner, thin it with acetone.