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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Clingfilm
allycat
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Posted: Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 11:34 PM UTC
Has anyone ever tried masking with clingfilm? (the plastic stuff you wrap food up in) I'm sort of toying with trying it but thought I'd ask all of you first.
Tom
Teacher
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Posted: Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 11:37 PM UTC
Rather you than me Tom! The static that stuff produces is amazing.....I doubt it would stay in place whilst spraying. I would be very interested in knowing what happens when you try though........any chance you could video it for everybody? :-) :-) :-)

Vinnie
viper29_ca
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Posted: Sunday, September 18, 2005 - 11:48 PM UTC
Actually I have been thinking of also using this for a while....but I wasn't thinking of just normal plastic wrap....but that new stuff called Press and Seal.

It doesn't stick by static, but you have to actually press it down to get it to stick.

Cut out a shape or a strip and press it down to the model, and then spray over it....in theory it should work.

The stuff reminds me of the 3M Parafilm....just you don't have to stretch it to get it to stick.
airwarrior
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 12:51 AM UTC
There was a thread in the RRB (I think) of a P-40 painted that way, and the outcome was very enticing, I think I'll try it on my next king tiger...
Pilgrim
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 01:17 AM UTC
I have heard of people using tin foil as it's quite cheap and easier to get to conform to the shape you want. I haven't used it yet myself, but have got a roll for my toolbox
Grumpyoldman
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 01:40 AM UTC
I've never used it masking for painting, but have used it to mask when sculpting items in epoxy to fit on another item, yet want to be able to part again, after the epoxy cures.
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 02:06 AM UTC
Howdy fellas,

'Press and Seal' works fine as long as you use low air pressure in your AB, and it's best when it has a panel line to end at. The resulting painted edge is OK for tri-camo and the like.
{EDIT:} I forgot to mention, just an FYI....Press and Seal works best on a gloss surface such as Future.
The advantage that using Press and Seal gives you {as opposed to Silly Putty}is; that because it is clear, you can see the underlying colours, decals, and/or details you have previously applied.


For 'harder' edges, carefully cutting out a piece of Bare Metal Foil and lightly burnishing it's edges down will work. Just two fairly important caveat's though....make sure your underlying paintjob is fully dried, and, remember to remove the BMF just as soon as you are finished with your new coat of paint....
hth

Tread.
drabslab
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Posted: Monday, September 19, 2005 - 02:21 AM UTC
I have tried it once.

It seemed perfect because it sticked like glue on the model.

But this effect is a result of static electricity. The very negative side effect is that this static electricity also has an effect on the very tiny paint particles that an airbrush is producing.

Or, the paint is, like with a magnet, drawn towards the foil and doesn't land on the surface that you want to paint.

In the margin:

Industrial painting techniques (for steel objects) include a system where a large electrical potentail difference (Jee, difficult to explain when not english native) is created between the surface that has to be painted and the airbrush nozzle. Example: the surface is on + 5000 and the nozzle (and therefore also the paint) is on -3000V. This way the paint and the surface act like magnets and the paint sticks a lot better while far less of the paint disappears in the environment.
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