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 Community Forum: Kaki Model Malaysia
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Scratchbuilding Databank
beachbum
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Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 04:42 PM UTC
I think the above title is appropriate and since I qualify for a very frustrated if not the most frustrated scratchbuilder in Malaysia, I'll start the ball rolling.

As everybody knows while Malaysia claim to be "Malaysia Boleh" in many things but one thing, well 2 if you count badminton, that Malaysia definitely TAK BOLEH is modelling supplies. As our big teh tarik session may take some time to materlize I've included some substitutes I've used for my scratchbuilding and maybe you guys can add on so we can all share our info if not frustrations.

1. Water. Just recently discovered that you can do a reasonable water dio with multiple layers of clear wood varnish tinted with paint. I used Selley's Polyurethane glue before and though it gave fair results it tended to crack a bit at the sides.
2. Ground Vegetation. For long and short grass, camel hair found in wood varnish brushes are the best. I've showed Silantra some of the stuff. Tea leaves and spices are good tree leaves and fallen leaves. The cheaper brands are the best as they include debris.
3.Big trees/bushes. Manage to preserve some ferns and tiny plants. Let me know if anyone is crazy or patient of both to try and I'll give you the formulation.
4. Pencil lead (0.9mm) great for pistol/rifle suppressors/silencers.
5. Scotch tape (get the expensive 3M ones) good for straps.
6. Aluminium cooking foil. Good for making corrugated zinc roofing.
7. Plywood left in the rain+sun (which our country has abundant) gives excellent weathered wood for panels. Used it for the deck of my scratchbuilt boat and wooden vats in my Drugs Do Kill dio.
8. Styrene. I'm experimenting with acrylic and high density PV sheets. Okay but haven't found any below 1 mm. I even cut up a plastic file which didn't turned up too bad. It was cheap anyway.
9. Chains. Go to the fake jewellery shop and you can buy all sizes and cheap too.
10. Kite paper. Great for tarps, sandbags, tents. You can stiffen it with wood varnish(love the stuff) and it will take water based paints.

Got a few more but I can't think of them right now. I've tried to use and modify whatever we have here coz its cheaper and easily available. Results may vary but who cares given our exchange rate. Eat your heart our Envirotex Lite and Styrene.
Silantra
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Putrajaya, Malaysia
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Posted: Tuesday, November 30, 2004 - 05:47 PM UTC
good work Tang!

u're the true malaysian boleh symbol man!!

i have a few examples which i cant remember ..i think i crack my self!

maybe later
Valkyrie
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Posted: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 - 01:07 PM UTC
Alternatively, Tamiya's masking tape can also be used for straps.

I am still scouring the kitchen and the lawn for some alternative materials...haha. There is a bottle of parsley bought by me specifically to simulate leaves (the wife do sometimes use it though)
Silantra
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Posted: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 - 01:32 PM UTC
ice cream stick also good if u're planning to similate wooden floor.... and if u go to hardware shop, find the wooden vernier strip...they're good also if u're bulding lots of wooden material ie, floor
beachbum
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Posted: Thursday, December 02, 2004 - 02:06 PM UTC
Great guys let's keep them coming. Here's a few I remembered:

1. Spackle. We hear our lucky North American/European fellow modellers mention it occassionally. Well just tapis some fine beach sand the next time you go to the beach. If you use styrofoam like me for walls and plaster it afterwards just sprinkle the fine sand before the plaster hardens especially at the damaged portion of the wall where its rough. Paint wall color and highlight the "rough" spots due to the sand.
2. Glass. If you guys are crazy on details like myself like making the glass that cover the dials on instrument panels, gas masks, etc. Just apply a drop Selley's polyurethane. Once dry it gives the impression of glass cover.
3. Camo nets. Here's a reason why you should accompany the wife shopping. The netting that covers onions/garlic when they're sold in packets is excellent for helmet netting to camo nets depending on the size of the holes and believe me guys there's quite a range of sizes.

Got a few more but takes a while for the old memory to work in the morning. Keep it going guys.
Valkyrie
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Posted: Saturday, December 04, 2004 - 02:59 PM UTC
It took me to read others' posts to refresh my memory!

This is an old trick but maybe somebody new to the hobby doesn't know yet: Having a First Aid kit in the home is also useful in the hobby. Use the medical gauze as camo netting. Strips of Tamiya tape can be added to make british-style hessian tape netting (see Missing Links for details). Or add tea leaves for leafy camo nets.

Certain kind of grass roots can also be made to be trees/branches...nedd to experiment first though.
beachbum
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Posted: Sunday, December 05, 2004 - 03:37 PM UTC
Yes Valkyrie roots can sometimes be used for roots and branches can also be made into roots. For making trees look for woody plants (anak kayu) preferably grown in a sandy area. The loose soil allows the roots to spread & branch more.

For making mangrove tree roots look for the Ficus tree very common to parks and gardens. If its pruned regularly even better. Lots of branching if its pruned. You can use it for trees or if turned upside down into a mangrove tree.

You can also use the dried petola for branches. I got some from my Mom for washing dishes. Looking at it made me think it can be cut to smaller pieces and stuck to larger branches to simulate smaller ones.

Another good source for groundwork supplies are plant nursery suppliers (for sorted pebbles) and baking shops (for cheap herbs).

If you guys ever travel the internal road from Kuantan to Cherating you will pass by several road side cuttings exposing a dark reddish soil. Its of volcanic origin (called Kuantan series if anyone is into details). Also found on the new highway as you approach Kuantan. Its good for a Vietnam dio given its color and if mixed in small amounts with normal soil gives contrast saving you paint for groundwork.

Save the straws when your'e at Macdonalds. The thinner ones can be used for roofing especially when split in half. Some roofs have a semi rounded strip running horizontally at the top of the roof pinnacle. If you rajin you can also cut them to smaller pieces to simulate roof tiles.
Silantra
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Posted: Sunday, December 05, 2004 - 06:11 PM UTC
good work tang...

here's another one...

kit litter... one small bag (RM7) can last for years..godd to represent sand and pebles...for xtra find, crush it with ur trusty ballmill (hehe..or batu lesung)...

ah..i cant remember others...
man..am i that old..........

Argrillion
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Posted: Sunday, December 05, 2004 - 08:43 PM UTC
I stumbled across this idea when I was working with my 1/72nd scale Sturmtiger.

Try using Talcum Powder for mud under those 1/72nd scaled armors. The size seems right but you would need a lot of patience to build up the layers . Nicely painted and washed, Voolah! You have mud!
beachbum
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Posted: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 - 07:59 PM UTC
Here's a crazy suggestion which I sometimes find useful. When your out next buying the real "toys" for your kids, nephews, etc. keep an eye out for accessories from these toys that sometimes are of the correct scale and can be used in adding details or modified to suit your scratchbuilding.

One day the Home Ministry bought back a space shuttle and I used the cargo pallet it had and modified to a lifeboat container found on boats. You know the one that looks like a capsule.
mislmd
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Posted: Thursday, December 09, 2004 - 07:06 PM UTC
If you take apart a disposable razor inside (underneath) you will find a flexible metal strip complete with circle and rectangle cut outs that can serve as a scribing template in a pinch.

Aisyah
Silantra
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Posted: Sunday, December 12, 2004 - 03:32 PM UTC
Rust effect:

i got this technique from ML forum years ago and managed to get good result and cheap too..

materials:
1. a glass container (tamiya empty bottles are good for this)
2. steel wool
3. vinigar
4. water

take a few steel wool and put inside a empty glass container. pour water inside...and put 2-3 drops of vinegar to catalyst the oxidation process. Put aside for 4-5 days...then u will get the real rust solution. The solution is yellowish brown ..the smell is real rust plus vinegar smell..
brush (paint) the solution onto your models.. at first the effect wont be seen. Let them dry and u will get the result. Be patient and dont overdo it.
here an example on my sd.kfz 250









beachbum
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Posted: Monday, December 13, 2004 - 08:48 PM UTC
Nice ideas guys. Silantra about the rust here's another way to go. The steel wool and vinegar didn't really work for me as I suspect the wool I got was plated or galvanized or something.

Just get a couple of iron nails, the best ones are those used for concrete as their iron content is higher. Dump the stuff in just normal water and when the water is almost evaporated (2-3) days pour the solution to a shallow dish or container. Let the water completely evaporate and you have rust that is easier to scoop up. If you leave it in the bottle the rust is a bit hard to scrape off.

Rust in reality has 2 colors, a darker version (ferric oxide if my old chemistry hasn't failed me) and a lighter version (ferrous oxide) depending on the state of oxidation (I couldn't help myself, I just had to get technical). To simulate the older darker rust just dilute some Indian ink and paint it on the rust at the portion you wish to simulate the older rust. Be careful not to lay it on thick but several layers otherwise the rust would look like, well, burnt rust.

The sponge material found in flower baskets have some potential to simulate leaf clumps. Tear off tiny pieces and stick them to your branches. Add some diluted PVA and sprinkle herbs or tea leaves. A bit tedious though.
Valkyrie
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Posted: Tuesday, December 14, 2004 - 12:32 PM UTC
For beginners/newcomers:

1. Leftover/unused parts - do not discard them. Might be useful as additional/ replacement/ scratchbuild base item for your future projects. The same goes with discarded older models. I have one ice-cream container full of such parts (and leftover decals too - anybody interested?)

2. Leftover PE can also be used to add 'details' (at the appropriate place of course). It might not be accurate but it sure can make a bare plastic more lively (esp. for older, less detailed aircraft models' cockpits)
beachbum
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Posted: Sunday, January 09, 2005 - 02:41 PM UTC
Here's a poor man's method of doing 1/35 scale bolts. If you get a suitable shaped and sized stalk from a plastic flower (requisitioned that from the little woman, hehheh) and cut it thin with a scapel or any super sharp blade, you can get something approximating bolts. Beats melting and stretching styrene.

Balsa wood as everyone probably knows is great for making almost any shaped object. You can get them at a Art supplier and with a bit of sanding with very fine grit sandpaper (No. 1000) you can get a pretty smooth surface. They come in as thin as 1mm which makes it almost as good as styrene for fabrication.
Valkyrie
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Posted: Saturday, March 05, 2005 - 03:28 PM UTC
...and now for something completely embarassing!

OK, I have done some scratchbuild items from leftover parts and kitchen supplies. But I have never done anything using plastic sheet/rod/tube etc. The question is : where can I find those items in Malaysia?

Target_J
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Posted: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 07:28 PM UTC
Hi all,

I don't know if this is appropriate especially for the Muslim members. For those who are thinking of spending their hard earned cash on pigments, take a look at the ashes produced by joss sticks / incense. They are extremely fine and loose. Think would be great to stimulate dirt or dust. However, they are dark grey in colour (similar to volcanic ashes) so i am not sure if it would be possible to change the colours.

I came across this at a coffee shop and the container where the joss sticks were burned was filled to the brim with the ash. It does take quite awhile to accumulate and i would assume that only the chinese style joss sticks are cheap. Don't burn your money by buying the aromatic or zen type instead.

beachbum
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Posted: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 09:00 PM UTC
Great idea Target_J on the ash. I use them myself but mine comes of the charcoal ash everytime I have a BBQ at my house.

Ash doesn't stick as well as pigments but that can be overcome by dunking it in PVA:water mix with a bit of detergent added. The end result is a slurry which you can apply. Alternatively is to apply a bit of PVA:water mix to the surface you want to dust and sprinkle the ash over it using a strainer.

Valkyrie sorry I didn't notice you had a question in your post about utilizing kitchen stuff. I use it often too until I was banned by the wife from using her stuff. What is it exactly you need to get or trying to scratchbuild?
Target_J
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Posted: Tuesday, March 08, 2005 - 09:51 PM UTC
Hi Beachbum, what is PVA? Is it the Elmers / white glue? Why would detergent be needed?

Instead of straining it over the area, would it be possible to dip a dry brush into the ash and then brush it over the surface with PVA & water mixed?

But due to the colour of the ash, it would only be suitable for dust and exhaust stains right? Would it be possible to change the colour?

Maybe it you make it into a slurry, then you can spray it to simulate mud once it has caked.

Will try to check whether they have any other Vietnam era figs.
beachbum
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Posted: Wednesday, March 09, 2005 - 03:28 PM UTC
Target_J PVA glue is the same as white glue or Elmers glue. You can get a relatively cheap pack of 1 litre (I think) at Handi-Mart.

Ash is very, very light and really fine. If you dip a brush into the ash and apply it to the surface no problem. Problem comes when you apply the PVA:water mix on TOP. Too diluted and it washes the ash off, too thick and you take off the ash on your brush when you apply the glue.

Best to apply a very diluted PVA:water mix to the surface then lightly sprinkle the ash. Painting over it once its dries with acrylics is no problem. The detergent in PVA:water mix helps to spread the ash a bit more evenly as they tend to clump which isn't bad if your'e making mud. Dont' spray the mix though.

Here's a pic of a pastel: BBQ charcoal ash combo made into a slurry and applied on the undercarriage.


Thanks for looking out the Vietnam era kits for me.
Silantra
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Posted: Sunday, March 20, 2005 - 12:50 PM UTC
Hi all...

i think i forgot this stuff which i've been using for years now

plastic card ie the one used for handphone reload card... they're great and has many usage..
1. u can place ur figure prior to panting and handling...just glue or put a blue tac on the figure foot and place em on the card..
2. they can be used as plastic stock....if u're looking for minimal scrathbuilding and need plastic, this card can be used...
some card has laminating film...from time to time i love to peel the film ...

but beware, not all reload cards are made from plastic..some are made from laminated paper....
expired credit card are great too, but the have embossed writing on its surface.....

when i still bujang. i have this housemate who reloaded his hp every two days.... plenty of reload card back then....

hope u love this idea...


beachbum
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 02:08 PM UTC
Good idea on the plastic card boss. Used it once myself. I wish more members would contribute coz it doesn't matter how crazy it may sound as long as it works.

Anyway I thought I'd share with everyone a little vignette (12 x 12 cm) I did for my brother. Its a jungle edge which borders a paddy field. Its made from all MADE IN MALAYSIA products.

Water = wood lacquer
Young paddy seedlings = wood varnish brush hair
Grass = Coconut husk fibres
Shrubs = Dried flower stalk & tea leaves
Coconut = Aluminium baking foil + sate stick + string + paper
Banana = Toothpick + paper + preserved fern
Keladi = Dried flower leaves
Palm = Dried flowers
Ground litter = Chinese & English tea leaves + compost fertilizer.

Don't know whether the link will work because they've changed the gallery and I can find the old copy function.
Boss if this doesn't work can you tell me how to do it?
beachbum
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 02:38 PM UTC
Here's another attempt to put up the photo by the computer idiot.
Silantra
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 05:35 PM UTC
Beachbum...
that was a great setting

u're indeed our mastersifoo!!
hail..hail


btw,
the first link actually wasnt the image file..it's a link to the website that showed the images

here's the link once more

http://photos.kitmaker.net/showphoto.php/photo/67835/cat/500/page/1[

ave
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Posted: Wednesday, March 23, 2005 - 06:00 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Here's another attempt to put up the photo by the computer idiot.



Wah beachbum thanks for the info, looks excellent. Maybe I'll try that one day
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