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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Artist's Oil Washes
Bribo
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Louisiana, United States
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 03:36 AM UTC
I've seen a lot of references to washing armor with artist's oil. I was wondering what everyone uses to thin the paints to make the wash. I'm fairly new to the hobby, and any help/hints you all have would be great!
Thanks
Bribo
Tin_Can
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 03:44 AM UTC
Bribo, welcome to ArmoramA...the BEST modelling site on the internet!

To make my oil washes, I thin the oil's with odorless mineral spirits to the consistency that the wash looks like dirty water. Typically I'll use a burnt umber oil for the wash.
otto
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Baden-Württemberg, Germany
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 03:46 AM UTC
I use a product called turpenoid. It is odorless as well. Hope this helps.....Otto
Bribo
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 04:50 AM UTC
Thanks for the help. This is a great site.
Abrams101
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 07:30 AM UTC
WElcome to armorama Bribo, If your useing artist oils to wash , I would suggest useing japan drier for the thin. It dries quick and thins beutifully. thats what I use anyway, And I love it.
Bribo
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 08:06 AM UTC
Hey, Sully, I dont mean to be dense, but what is japan drier? I dont think I've ever heard of that before. Is that the brand name? Thanks for replying, I'll take all the advice I can get!
Bribo
screamingeagle
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Posted: Thursday, August 08, 2002 - 10:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thanks for the help. This is a great site.



Welcome Bribo !
........I also use turpenoid.
TIP: You want tinted thinner ........not thinned paint
Bribo
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Posted: Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 08:09 AM UTC
Well, i just gave it a try, and the wash worked great! This was the first time I've done a wash, and its come out like you see them in "the books" What an eye opener! I got so excited, i didnt want to stop! For the first time i feel like I can take what I see others do, and what's in my minds eye, and make it come true. Thanks again to all who post suggestions and try to help out the newbies like me.
clovis899
#155
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Posted: Saturday, August 10, 2002 - 08:17 AM UTC
Japan Drier is a medium used by artists to speed drying time. It also flows somewhat better than Turpenoid. Be aware that it also will slightly increase the glossiness of your wash. I use it when I paint (my other hobby) but I haven't used it on a model.

I use Turpenoid myself. You might want to invest in a few tubes of oils for washes, not just one. Try burnt umber, raw sienna, blue black, and indian red. They each have uses that are unique, the fun part is experimenting to find what you like. Good luck.

Rick Cooper
Bribo
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 12:55 AM UTC
I have to scale back on my enthusiasm a bit. I just noticed that after drying over night, that the pigment and the medium (turpenoid) seem to have separated. The paint has gone splotchy where i did my wash, almost as if the oil was never really disolved in the solvent. What a bummer. I think I'll strip the tank and start over, maybe try regular turpentine or mineral spirits instead of the turpeniod. Oh well.....
herberta
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 01:15 AM UTC
There are two possibilities for your problem.

1) cheap oil paint. It has more coarsely ground pigment, so that can cause separation.

2) using turpenoid. I have not used turpenoid, but artist's odorless thinner. I don't know if it's the same thing, or different.

I have occasionally had the problem you describe. Is the basecoat matt paint? If there is a lot of 'texture' to the paint, that can cause 'bleeding' of the wash. I use matt paints though, without that problem.

Experiment on an old/hacked model to get some practice. You may not need to strip the paint, try wiping the oil off with a clean rag or old clean paintbrush. Oils take forever to dry, and even if they look dry overnight, you can get them off without stripping paint.

Andy
Bribo
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 01:24 AM UTC
I'll give that a try. Luckily this is my "hack" model. I did go over the gloss coat, and I'm using winsor & newton oils, they just never seemed to dissolve fully. No problem tho, that's where the fun lies, figuring out the problems. 'Cause hey, if it were easy, everyone would do it!
Bribo
TreadHead
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 01:38 AM UTC
Bribo, sounds like you've got the right attitude for this hobby! :-)
As to your query. I stumbled on this thread late, and the other's have already given you splendid advice (they always do). My Farthing's worth is;
Painting with mixed-medium's can sometimes be a bit challanging. There are many small factors that if not balanced can drastically affect the end result. If we all used only enamels for everything we did, it would be dead easy. But then our kits would also look 'dead'. (IMHO)
A suggestion, next time you ask a question, be very specific. In other word's, what type of paint was used for your base coat, dry time, main coat, dry time, etc., etc.
Bribo, you have been lucky enough to find this wonderful site, a site full of extremely helpful bloke's. Don't hesitate to 'dip' into it's water's....

Tread.

BTW, your sign-off line....refering to 'Spectre' gunship's? If so, good line. Except, 'Stinger's' ruled there first....hehe.
sfilak
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 05:37 AM UTC
Hi Bribo-

I gave up on Turpenoid a long time ago, for exactly the reasons you described. If you're using Winsor and Newton colors, it's not a problem with the paint itself - for some reason, the paint never completely dissolves in Turpenoid, causing the blotchy finish that you describe. Use a good solid acrylic glosscoat (such as Future floor wax), and then use regular turpentine as your wash medium. You'll see better results immediately - just make sure that the Future coat has had at least 48 hours to fully dry and cure.

HTH
Bribo
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 10:45 AM UTC
Hey Tread, Spectre gunships are what i refer to. I was a radar tech on H and U model gunships for a long time. Still love the big ol' beasties. We had an AC-119K on static at Hurlburt, but that's the closest I got to those.
Bribo
Roadkill
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Antwerpen, Belgium
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Posted: Sunday, August 11, 2002 - 06:37 PM UTC
Hello,

This is something I tried a while back after having problems with my wash.

I use ZIPPO fuel to thin my oil paint - advantage:

- dry is a couple of hours (instead of days)
- no attack on other paint layers (especially if you don't apply a clear coat)

Works great #:-)
drewgimpy
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:08 PM UTC
I am new to modeling (after a 15 year break) like you are and I had the exact same problem. What I did to fix it was 1. use mineral spirits instead of turpenoid, and 2. put down a coat of future floor wax. This helped fix the problem. The future helped it flow much better into the cracks and edges and the mineral spirits seemed to mix better with the windsor newton oil paints.

Also, welcome to the site. I have asked tons of questions and gotten every one of the answered without making me feel stupid. And don't worry about asking stupid questions, I have asked them all already

I also have discovered using oil paints for more than just washes and love it. I can give you a link to an article that would tell you more about using oils if that sounds like fun to you. Just send me a personal message if you want the link.
TreadHead
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Posted: Monday, August 12, 2002 - 12:28 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Hey Tread, Spectre gunships are what i refer to. I was a radar tech on H and U model gunships for a long time. Still love the big ol' beasties. We had an AC-119K on static at Hurlburt, but that's the closest I got to those.
Bribo



Bribo, thanks for the reply. So, you were a Gunfighter huh? Allow me to salute you, and thank you for your service! I'm a big fan of the 'old birds' too. In fact I'm building one of the 119's right now for a group build that 'ladymodeler' is running. Her build specs were for a Navy, prop-driven, aircraft, post WWII. So as a 'ringer' to the submissions I'm building an AC-119 K 'Stinger' that was loaned to the Navy (Riverine) for a classified (at the time) 'truck'kill' mission into Laos.

Tread.

Good to have you as a member.
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