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Modeling in General: Weathering
Discuss general weathering topics here.
Washes..how to dilute?
blaster76
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Texas, United States
Member Since: September 15, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 07:32 AM UTC
Right now, I paint with enamels and thin them for airbrush using Mineral Spirits. I am applying a wash using paint thinner as my base. Is there anyway to thin the paint thinner a bit more to lessen the impact it has on my airbrushed enamel paint. I am getting a little paint wash-out and some crazing despite waiting several days to let paint set up. How long is a good wait period btwn painting and washing?. I go a minimum of two days
MrRoo
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Queensland, Australia
Member Since: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:01 AM UTC
enamel over enamel will always go this way. You would be better to do your washes in acrylic (or oil) as these will not affect the bottom coat.

Cliff

PS> I use acrylic washes over Humbrol and have not tryed oil washes yet
ex-royal
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: May 03, 2003
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:11 AM UTC
If you want to use an enamel wash over an enamel base coat you should try sealing the base with an acrylic clear coat and use Turps instead of Mineral Spirits. You can find turps in any good hardwarestore. Just tell the clerk you want the stuff that doesnt stink to high heaven. HTH
cheers,
Bryan
blaster76
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Texas, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:43 AM UTC
I hate acrylics. Never ever been able to make them work through my air brush...I've had more than a dozen guys tell me how they did it, but no matter what I've done or tried it's always been a muck up. So no one knows how to thin paint thinner OK then. Oh don't have the money to go out and buy oils and added expense involved with all that.
ws48
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South Carolina, United States
Member Since: January 30, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 09:00 AM UTC
I paint with enamels thinned with mineral spirits. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Apply a coat of Future with AB. Allow to dry for at least 24 hours. Weather with enamels thinned with mineral spirits. Allow to dry at least 24 hours. Final coat with acrylic flat. I have never had any crazing, lifting or incompatability between coats using this system. A general rule is that enamels will not rewet acrylics and acrylics witl not rewet enamels. Just think of it as oil and water do not mix.

Hope this helps.
Emeritus
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Uusimaa, Finland
Member Since: March 30, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 01:49 PM UTC
I have found out that if you use mineral spirits for washes, the pigment in the enamel paint (I use mostly Humbroll enamels) separates from the thinner part of the paint, and causes incredible frustration. Then I tried acrylics a couple of times and they seemed to work fine for small scale models. But for 1:35 or so, acrylics just dry too fast and make ugly blotches and drying marks. Now I tried Humbroll's own enamel thinner and it works much better. Pigment doesn't separate and the wash flows better. On the the downside is the quite strong smell of that stuff and the price, which is quite high. But it's not that big a deal, when you use the high quality thinner for washes only.
Iron-Fist
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Idaho, United States
Member Since: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 02:35 PM UTC
I paint my Braille armour with acrylics, then use a very thin enamel wash thinned with thinner of the same brand to capilary the details, works very well for me. But you can't let the thinner used to clean up excess wash build up too much on the model, or it will evaporate and leave a white hazey spot.
mother
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New York, United States
Member Since: January 29, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, August 14, 2004 - 02:59 PM UTC
i'll tell i always have great results using tamiya or polly-s paints and i also thin with rubbing alcohol. the alcohol also helps in drying the paint faster. then i use the enamel or oils thined with TURPENOID. its a turpentine substitute. this stuff won't attack your base coat. it kinda dryes fast too. give it a try on a piece of scrape plastic. build up your scrap to give it some depth and put in a few scratchs as to watch it flow. when it drys take a q-tip, dampen it with the turpenoid and clean op the area.
joe
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