Voyager posted some great tips for taking better photos of model miniatures. You can go to the Introductions forum, to the "Hello from Melbourne" thread, go to a long untitled message on page three. He spoke to me like a two year old and I was glad for it!

Thanks General, I'm not too savvy with the computer, appreciate the direct link you provided.

Tom,
Excellent stuff. I printed the answer out so I can refer to it when I tank my next pics. Thanks for asking the question and thanks to Steve for the answer.
I reposted the amswer below:

Steve's tips for better pics:

OK - here's a couple of really quick and easy tips that you can try, plus if you're really going to do this seriously (ie: lots of pics), then you may want to invest a few $ (and I mean only a few) in a couple of items.

OK, firstly, in order to best answet this, I need to explain 2 basic concepts of cameras. I'll do this very briefly so as not to overload you with mostly useless technical information.

1. Simply - a camera is designed to measure light, and then calculate how fast to operate the shutter to let the right amount onto the film. It does this by measuring REFLECTED light, and adjusting the exposure so that everything, on average, is at 18% reflectance (which is the reflectance of pure middle grey). Because of this, highly reflective or unreflective surfaces stuff up the readings, and ruin your photos.

2. Most typical digital cameras like to do everything for you. Read this as "stuff everything up". Your average cheap digital camera seems to be geared towards taking pictures of people, either inside or outside, mainly at short ranges. To this end, they typically like to fire the flash for every photo, which is extremely annoying.

Now consider a miniature in a photograph. We've tried to simulate the world by painting in shadows and highlights, relying on people's perception rather than lighting to show depth. Your camera, however, works solely with light. When it fires its flash, you suddenly have an intense light blasting your diorama or model from front-on (which is THE WORST PLACE for it). Your highlights become glaring white hotspots, and your shadows either vanish or go featureless black.

Now, armed with this knowledge, we can make 3 simple adjustments to the way we photograph our miniatures. These are, simply:

1. Switch the damn flash OFF. If your camera doesn't let you do it, you can try adding more light to the setup (see below). If you still can't shut it off, then your camera really is going to be a nightmare for miniature photography.

2. "Fool" the camera into always giving us the perfect exposure. This is easy, and my favourite way to do it is not to get fancy equipment, but to go to the local photographic equipment store (even the local Kodak Express will probably have these) and get a packet of Photographic Grey Cards. You typically get 2 8x10" and one 4x5" in a pack, and they don't expire, so you'll have them forever. They cost about $20 AUD, so probably about $10 US. If you're serious about this, get them. No arguments!

3. Set up a "mini studio". Don't panic - it packs flat, and you don't have to spend much! This is good for models and small vignettes - anything larger will require additional trickery. Set it up like this:

Find a nice flat area, preferably one that sees plenty of nice, diffused light. The kitchen bench is typically a great option, and nice workable height.

Now, get some form of support for your camera. A tripod is perfect (not one of those rubbery things - they're useless), but if you don't have one, put the camera on a small beanbag - these make a great camera support.

Now, get your 2 large grey cards. Lie one of them flat on the bench so that it buts up against the edge. Stand the other one vertically behind it (use a tin or something to hold it up. Finally, place the small card on top of the bottom piece - this will raise up your mini just enough to eliminate ghosting effects from shadows.

Place your mini on the small card. Try to keep it close to the front of the whole rig, as your camera will pick it out better for autofocusing.

OK, now some additional lighting. Grab your modelling lights from the table where you work, and set them up on 45 degree angles away from the camera (obviously pointing at the model). This combined with the overhead light AND the diffuse window light should give nice, even lighting and won't blow out any detail. I know it sounds like a LOT of light, and it is, but it really makes a difference. If you have Daylight bulbs in your work lights (and who doesn't ???) it will be even better, but normal bulbs will be fine.

Right, now get your camera. Set it up for MACRO mode, if any (sometimes called "close up", or a picture of a flower). Now, ZOOM the camera to its absolute maximum, and then back it off just slightly (this will assist the autofocus). Now, switch OFF the flash, and engage SELF TIMER mode (so when you press the button, there is a 10sec delay). Also set the MAXIMUM resolution and quality setting.

Line up the photo by moving the camera into position on its beanbag/tripod. You want to move the camera so that the miniature fills up 80 - 90% of the view. Now, half-depress the shutter release button (the one you press to take pictures) and ensure the Autofocus gets a lock. If so, fully depress it, and take your hands OFF the camera. If not, move the camera a little further away and try again. Once you get it, fully depress the button.

This will take the photo. Now, do NOT rely on the screen. Download the initial picture to your computer, and examine it there. Happy ? Keep it. If not, erase it, make a SLIGHT change to the setup (move the mini slightly, etc) and try again. You'll soon work out the characteristics of your specific camera, and will get good results.

Shooting a diorama ? Everything I've said so far should hold. The ONLY difference is that you need to be careful about your exposure, because you can't stack it into the grey card surroudings. SO - don't use the self-timer, but keep the flash OFF. Aim the camera at the grey card, and partially depress the trigger. This should lock in a neutral exposure. Now, swing over to the diorama itself. The focus should lock on, and then hit the trigger to take the photo.

Hopefully some of this helps.

Steve.

Thanks Steve.
Chuck