Hi, everyone. This is my first time posting. I recently got back into modeling after not having done any models since I was a teenager. Now I remember a little about what got me out of it the first time around...decals! Decals have always been frustrating to me. So, I've got a couple of questions. First, I've read that applying some sort of gloss coat first will help out a bunch with applying the decals. I'm not really up for using the "Future" (I think that's what it's called. Isn't that floor polish?) So, is it safe to just use a spray can of something like Testors Gloss Coat? Okay, if the first part of this is true, then maybe I can just apply a matte coat after applying the decals. Is this true? Next, for the standard decals that come with Tamiya models, what is the best way to apply them to the model after the gloss coat? Do you use water to soak them in? How long do you soak them? Do you use any other kinds of decal products? I saw some kind of Testors decal solutions at the hobby store, but from reading the instructions on the cans, it looked like they were just for decals that you've printed yourself from a printer onto that special decal paper. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

Welcome to Armorama!

Yes, certainly, you can use a lacquer-based gloss coat instead of Future Floor Finish. I switch back and forth all of the time. It is good to use with Tamiya "thick" armor decals.

As for water, I use either warm or cold (room temperature) water - neither makes a huge difference over the other - and I dip for 10-15 seconds and sit on a paper towel for around 30 seconds. Sometimes for compound curves or irregular surfaces, I'll apply MicroSet/MicroSol to help Tamiya decals to set into place. Generally, the Tamiya decals for armor are pretty good - just thick.

Did I already mention that Tamiya decals are thick? No? :-) Well - yes - they are! The lacquer-based gloss coat is also useful for you to seal and buildup a layer over these decals. Future is more tricky to use and get a good result in trying to layer over the thick (oops - said it again) Tamiya decals.

Building a clear gloss over the decal makes the carrier film disappear when you finally dull or satin coat the overall finish - creating an illusion of "painted on" markings - if done carefully and properly.

Gunnie

Wow! Thanks so much for your response, Gunnie. Is the MicroSet/MicroSol a Tamiya product or put out by some other company? Maybe that's the stuff I was looking at. Is it something that you soak the decal in, just spray it onto the decal once on the model or spray it onto the model before application of the decal? Thanks again for your response. Hopefully this will help me out a lot as I'm working on the Tamiya Panther V Ausf. A right now and was worrying about applying the decals. I'm not really opposed to other solutions I've heard about such as buying the dry transfer decals or things like that, but I've got a very limited "hobby" budget and just want to work with what I've got for the most part if I can. So, for now, I'll mostly be building things OOB.

No - not a Tamiya product - but it is probably what you saw at the Hobby Shop. The MicroSet/MicroSol is a good performing decal system. However, you probably won't need it to get the decals to laydown properly on this particular model.

Gunnie

Gunnie has it covered, Armorguy!! Welcome aboard.
Testors makes a decal setting solution, too. I don't know how it compares to Microset but it may be easier to find if you don't have a good LSH. (I don't) Link to Testors Decal set below.

HTH,
Shaun

http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tes/tes1737.htm

Thanks for the warm welcome and the additional info, Shaun.

Hello armorguy, welcome to armorama. Cheers Kevin

Hi armorguy, welcome to the site. Gunnie is right about Tamiya decals being THICK! I have found when using the decal solutions on the larger decals, such as wing roundels, they can wrinkle up a lot and not smooth out. I've been told it is because of the thickness. However someone suggested for the largest decals use only the microsol. Or as an alternative buy a set of decals by other manufacturers.

Thanks for the suggestions. Just in case I want to venture out some more, what are some good manufacturers of aftermarket decals? Maybe you could give me some websites to look around on or something.

Oh, one more thing... I have noticed that the Tamiya decals are thick. They're definitely thicker than when I did Tamiya models many years ago. However, the artwork on them looks great!

First, my welcome, as well.
There aren't many standard after market armor decals out there. What you'll want to do is check out Archer Fine Transfers. The provide a wide range of dry transfers, i.e., you burnish the design onto the model, no water, no carrier film, infact, no need to glss coat. Verlinden has some as well, but availability can be sketchy.

Welcome aboard Armorguy!!!

As you may know already, Gunnie is a very informative and great guy all around, as for all the rest of us here.

There isnt really much else4 to add, but there is another product you can use as a decal seting solution. I also use Micro Set/Sol, but I also use Solvaset. If your local hobby shop doesnt carry it, try looking at the RailRoad hobby shops. This product comes from one of the major model railroading distributors. But for the life of me, i cant think of the name of the distributor. SOMEONE HELP ME OUT HERE!

The answer is Floquil

Welcome Armorguy! I too just got back into modeling a few monts ago and I'm here to tell you, this site is awesome! There hasn't been a question yet someone hasn't been able to answer. Everyone is eager to help, no matter what the issue. Have fun!

Thanks for all of the responses everyone. I think I may have seen the Solvaset. How is this stuff used? Is this a spray? Is this something that you put on the model, then apply the decal? Or, do you put it on after applying the decal?...Or, do you use it instead of water to soak the decal in? Thanks again for all of the good info so far. You all have been great!

Okay guys - help me out here - we probably have little variations on the way we use Solvaset...

It is a pre and post type of decal treatement - at least for my application(s).

First - soak the decal in water, remove and set aside.

Second - I wet the area of the model I intend the decal to go with a paintbrush and Solvaset.

Third - I then apply the decal to the model by carefully sliding if off the carrier sheet to the dampened area of the model.

Fourth - I blot the decal down into place with a makeup wedgie (foam triangle makeup applicator that wives and girfriends always seem to have in every corner of the house begging to be used for better purposes - like model building) to get air bubbles out from underneath the decal.

Fifth - I then reapply some Solvaset with a paintbrush after I get the decal patted down into place.

Six - Leave it alone to setup properly...

Gunnie

Slovaset is in a bottle with a brush applicator. First, place the decal as usual, ie dipping in water, placing on model, soaking up excess water. Then brush on the Solvaset. The Solvaset softens the decal, so dont touch after you apply,and conforms it to the surface. But always place your decals on a good gloss surface. once the decal conforms to the surface ( you may have to brush on a couple of coats, depending on the decal) seal it with flat or gloss clear paint.

Hope this helps out.

Al,
I was drawing a blank on the train distibutor that sold it, WHALTERS!!!!!!!!!! I just remembered!!!!!!! Whalters is the distibutor. You see there big wish book on trains in the hobby stores.

Thanks, guys. The Solvaset directions are great! Okay, I'll stop bothering you all for a while. Thank goodness it's almost the weekend. I've got all kinds of time to test this stuff out this weekend!

Your not bothering Armorguy, keep the questions coming. It breaks the momentum here at work. KNOW WHERE DID THOSE DRAGON SIGHTS I WAS WORKING ON GO??????????

Welcome aboard armorguy. Gunnie has covered decal application quite thoroughly in his previous posts. My technique is a bit different by eliminating the clear gloss procedure and trimming ALL clear carrier film from the decal image - it's a pain-in-the-axx but dramatically effective. Dry transfers are the ideal but selection is slim unless you commission custom tranfers.

Cody

is gunze Mr. Mark Softer for Decal another product?

Hi Ya armorguy

As everybody else has already said "Welcome". I won't waste time restating what has already been said as most have forgotten more about modeling then I will ever know. Just remember... if you need info ask at this site. You have seen the results.

Cheers
HastyP