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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
sand paper grit
godfather
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 03:16 PM UTC
What grit of sand paper should you use to leave very little marks on the plastic. If you do leave marks what's the best way to cover/remove them? :-)
cdave
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 03:53 PM UTC
Hey "P".

Start off with a medium grit then go down to fine. I happen to prefer the wet variety as this also get the grit away with water.

As for some short side sanding, go to the local grocery store up there and head for the cosmetics aisle. Look for those red/pink sanding sticks. They are great at about 600 grit paper and have a cool grip.

If you are doing something for a shine job (like a '67 Chevy with candy apple red color scheme), you will have to go down to the fine sanding pastes to get that supper smooth surface.

If you are doing a bad-ass Russian tank, stay at 600 grit. They ahd a lot of marks on them anyway!

HTH, Dave
GeneralFailure
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 05:42 PM UTC
the higher the number, the finer the grit.
Most industrial grades that you'd use for household repairs are too coarse for modeling. Try on a piece of the model that won't be visible in the end result (piece of sprue ? ) and see where it gets you . If you see marks, go for a finer grit.
However, don"t start with the very finest grit. You have to move from medium and end with fine. Good luck
sgtreef
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 07:16 PM UTC
Have to agree with both answers. Best place is go to automotive store and get some 180 grit and then some 220,320,400,600. Now if you want super fine say maybe barrel seam I would use 1200 or 1500 grit.
salt6
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 07:59 PM UTC
Wet sanding is the best way to go not only does it wash away the dust but it keeps the sandpaper from clogging. Auto supply stores are probably the best source for the grade of paper you'll need. Even better if you can find an auto paint supply place. And don't forget the 3M putty, as good as all the hobby stuff I've used comes in a big tube and works out to be alot cheaper than the hobby store stuff. Also don't forget about a good set of files.
sgtreef
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 08:37 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Wet sanding is the best way to go not only does it wash away the dust but it keeps the sandpaper from clogging. Auto supply stores are probably the best source for the grade of paper you'll need. Even better if you can find an auto paint supply place. And don't forget the 3M putty, as good as all the hobby stuff I've used comes in a big tube and works out to be alot cheaper than the hobby store stuff. Also don't forget about a good set of files.



Do you use Glazing blue or Red? Big tube $12.00 we know don't we their Salt6
Folgore
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 10:23 PM UTC
I agree with the others' comments, but have one more thing to add. A good way to get the piece nice and smooth after sanding is to go over it with steel wool. I use very fine steel wool (0000).

Nic
GeneralFailure
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Posted: Friday, July 19, 2002 - 10:29 PM UTC
that's a neat idea, Nic. Never thought of using that. It's cheap and easy to come by.
salt6
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Posted: Saturday, July 20, 2002 - 09:06 AM UTC
Jeff,

I use the blue. Haven't had to buy any in awhile, Think I gave 10 bucks for the tube I have.

Putty
m1garand
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Posted: Saturday, July 20, 2002 - 12:21 PM UTC
Another final sanding step would be to use a brown paper bag from the grocery store.HTH
Hollowpoint
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Posted: Saturday, July 20, 2002 - 09:32 PM UTC

Quoted Text

As for some short side sanding, go to the local grocery store up there and head for the cosmetics aisle. Look for those red/pink sanding sticks. They are great at about 600 grit paper and have a cool grip.



These sanding sticks work great. I was turned on to them about 10 years ago by some of my aircraft and car building friends. The best ones I've found are are two-tone on one side (gray and green or pink and white) and have a smooth gray surface on the other side. There are actually three grits on each stick. With the gray/green sticks, gray is the roughest, so I start sanding with that, then sand with the green and finally polish it out with the smooth gray side. The pink/white sticks are about the same (sand pink, white, gray polish), but are narrower.

I'm currently working on DML's T-26E3 and used the kit barrel. I sanded out the barrel with one of these sticks and it looks as good and smooth as any aftermarket aluminum barrel.

Also, Testors sells wet/dry sanding and polishing films that go to like 4000 grit. I don't care for them too much because they are too small and too expensive. The sticks are much better.

BTW, I probably do 95% of my sanding with 320 or 400 grit 3M wet/dry sandpaper. I cut little pieces and glue them to small pieces of wood to serve as home-made sanding sticks.

I also have two sanding blocks I made from wooden blocks I swiped from the kids' toy box years ago. One is a traditional rectangular block, about 1 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch by three inches. The other is about the same size, but is a half-round sort of shape like a capital D. I cut a strip of sandpaper the same width as the block, then wrap it around and secure it with a thumbtack. The half-round is great for sanding wheels and tires -- sanding curve on curve you never get any flat spots.
mihaip
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Posted: Monday, August 05, 2002 - 02:35 AM UTC

Quoted Text

What grit of sand paper should you use to leave very little marks on the plastic. If you do leave marks what's the best way to cover/remove them? :-)



When I remove marks or sand putty I first use 500 or 400 grit to take down the un-neat marks (if any) then gradually sand with 800 and 1000. I always finish with 1200 grit, it leaves a smoth surface.
KFMagee
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Posted: Monday, August 05, 2002 - 04:16 AM UTC
To get the smoothest finish, sand at 90-degree angles... for example sand in one direction (instead of a circular motion which tends to overcut certain grooves), and then come back and re-sand again, going 90% to the first sanding. i also use 2000 and 3200 grit papers for really fine and smooth surfaces... and as folger reminds us, Steel Wool 000 is a great final application.
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