Hi Guys

I've got a question that is not strictly diorama related, but rather model building related. I know many including myself have used Cyanoacrylate glue for many things for years now. My question is this, is there any differences in the type or brand name of different Cyanoacrylate glues? I've used regular "crazy glue" for years, and it has worked fine. Then again I've never used any of the etched metal sets that are on the market. For gas pedals, and other details I normally just scratchbuild them out of plastic. Lately though I've been thinking of giving these sets a try. Now I've been told that my regular "crazy glue" won't work on etched metal that I need to use the more expensive brand name glues.
I turnto my brothers and sisters in the armorma world for the answer. Is there any differences?
Thanks folks
Wolfsix

well they are all pretty much the same except you can buy the hobby types in different thicknesses and drying time ..this can be very handy when using P/E ,but the result is much the same.

Rick

all superglues were not created equal. But the main thing with PE and superglue is that the parts must be real clean. I use a soft toothbrush and metholated spirits to clean my PE and in the past used a cheap superglue from the supermarket.

I did have a few problems withs parts not attaching so I changed to a good quality hobby type which has a set time of 60seconds. This at least gives me time to alter the position of the part if I need to.

my suggestion is to try your normal glue and if it works then why change. If it does not work then go for 'Zap' or one of the quality types. Also to keep it longer put the bottle into an airtight zip top plastic bag and keep in the door of the fridge when not in use. It is heat and air that cause CA type glues to deteriorate in the bottle.

i work with 3 types. Logo Duro and ZAP (no time left !!) first is very fluid and can go in every seam, second is thicker and can be nicely used for bigger parts and the 3d one is instand drying and helps for accurate joints but needs steady hand and good pointing !!!

I've tried cheap CAs with varying success, so now I only use Loctite in the standard 'thin' and 'gel' types. At least I know that they'll stick the parts, whereas with the cheap glues it can be dodgy at times.

too many brands of CA glue here but some of them are not good for modelling. for example ; uhu instant is good for other proposes but not good for modelling.it glues a little late than other CA glues and bonds deadly .I use Alteco and i am happy with this one. ..and an interesting info; CyanoAcrylate is also know as Japanese glue in Turkey,I dont know why

Hi all

Thanks guys for the replys. MrRoo, Thanks for the tip about keeping the glue in the fridge to make it last longer. I normally buy two to three tubes at a time so this idea will come in handy. I think I'll take your advise and try the crazy glue first, if it works find, if not I'll go for some of the others. Thanks again to everyone who replied. you guys are always a big help.

Wolfsix

Gotta agree that CA glues vary wildly in quality. The three-tubes-for-a-dollar stuff you get at the supermarket or discount store is not half as good as the Lock-tite you get at the hardware store or the Zap you get at the hobby shop. This is really one case where you get what you pay for (and I am one cheap SOB when it comes to most things). I kind of like the mid-priced Flash I can get at Hobby Lobby.

Roo suggests keeping it in the fridge ... I suggest keeping it out of sight of your teenage daughters and your spouse. I try to keep a tube of the cheapo crap out as a decoy and stash the good stuff in the cabinet away from the "handy-women."