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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
Anybody use a badger 200SG
tiger007
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Member Since: March 12, 2004
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 04:26 AM UTC
Like to know how much paint you get from it as i just found out they dont need a colour cup.is it messy and do you need to keep the airbrush strait.cheers karl
almonkey
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England - East Midlands, United Kingdom
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 07:06 AM UTC
i own a badger 200 GF and a paasche XL both of which have a colour cup, as long as you don't fill them up to the brim you can almost forget theres no top to the paint, and get a wide range of movement. the only spills i've had have been when i knocked it off my bench. b.t.w. is the SG an updated model of the GF?
19k
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 07:22 AM UTC
I have an older Badger 200 I'm not sure if it's quite the same thing. I've been looking in one of my newer catalogs but can't find the SG designation on a 200 model in them. If it's anything like my 200, and your paint is in a jar with a siphon tube, you can pretty much move the air brush around freely. Your only limitations are the vent hole on top the jar and as your paint runs low , if you tip it too much you will move the paint away from the siphon tube. The amount of paint that comes out is easily adjusted with the needle adjustment and I find playing with the air pressure to be helpful. You can also buy different tips for it to get a more fine or more broad spray pattern too. I hope this helps. If this is nothing new to you feel free to disregard any or all of it!
tiger007
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 08:05 AM UTC
http://www.badgerairbrush.com/200sgparts.htm /this is the brush i just brought/i allready have the 200nh airbrush but i needed a fine spray brush !
viper29_ca
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New Brunswick, Canada
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 03:39 PM UTC
It doesn't matter what the suffix letters are on the Badger 200 airbrush, they are all the same, only difference is the needle and the head....and the accessories that it comes with.

I can show you pictures of kits that a friend of mine have done with a Badger 200 with a fine needle that most people would use superfine ABs priced 2 and 3 times the amount to do. So a 200 is a good investment....if you want a finer spray...spend the $20 or so for the fine needle and head, instead of alot more for a whole new AB.

Personally I don't have the paint cup for the 200...I just use the one off of the 350, and the angle of the syphon tube into the paintcup is a little odder than a 200 cup, so I really have to be careful...but a 200 paint cup actually fits better.
straightedge
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Posted: Monday, April 05, 2004 - 05:12 PM UTC
I'm new at this so if everything works OK then this should take you to see the 200 SG, 200G,200NH,and the200-20 airbrush
Hope this is able to help you out.

Kerry
viper29_ca
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Posted: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 - 02:48 AM UTC
OK....2 of them have a small color cup on top of the AB body....didn't know Badger made them....other than the top feed and bottom feed.....the ABs are the same, same internal parts. Same needles and all.

Again...if someone already has the normal 200 AB....is it really worth buying a whole new AB just to have the paint cup on top??? Get the fine needle and head on the normal 200 and other than gravity feed vs syphon feed....its all the same.
19k
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Posted: Tuesday, April 06, 2004 - 08:37 AM UTC
Straightedge !

Thanks much for that link in the Badger 200SG thread. I have not seen this in my catalogs which are Miro-Mark and my Walthers model railroad catalogs. I would have thought the Walthers catalog woul have done a better job with it. I think it's in there but only described as a "Gravity Feed" set. Once again, thanks.
19k




Quoted Text

I'm new at this so if everything works OK then this should take you to see the 200 SG, 200G,200NH,and the200-20 airbrush
Hope this is able to help you out.

Kerry

Cactus911
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Posted: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 03:38 AM UTC
I just bought one of these (200SG) online from a Yahoo store (fingers crossed it isn't too sketchy!), and I'm hoping that it will be the cure for my closeup low-pressure fine line blues. My Iwata BCS simply can't handle fine lines at all. I've basically grid-searched the parameter space (PSI, viscosity, distance, trigger pull and pressure, thinning agents, thinning percentage) and found no combination sufficient for spraying acrylics in tiny lines onto plastic. I never move the trigger around, so having a single action doesn't seem to be a hindrance in this case. I like the idea of having a tiny space for the paint as well, since I hate filling up the suction cup full enough with my expensive paint only to need half of it to basecoat a tiny 1:72 Panzer III! Not to mention camouflage lines...

So I'm hoping this is the answer, otherwise I'll probably feel like throwing my airbrush and compressor out the window.

Stephen
almonkey
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Posted: Wednesday, April 07, 2004 - 09:43 AM UTC
my first "real" airbrush was a badger 200 suction feed,which i learnt to airbrush with (the hard way ) it ended up being cleaned to destruction, so i replaced it with a gravity feed the advantages of this are easier cleaning, which means less time to swop colours over and as cactus 911 said you don,t need half as much paint. when i first started airbrushing i did'nt realise you should thin the paint down, and would half fill the jar! my early attempts looked like i used aerosols and it took me a while to have confidence to use it correctly. at the moment i'm only using an aztek 470 cos my trusty badger needs a needle bearing, andi need to figure out to connect the paasche to my compresser
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