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Scratchbuilders!: Armor/AFV
This is a group for armor scratchbuilding questions, topics and projects.
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Drywall for modeling
Art
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Michigan, United States
Member Since: March 20, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, March 20, 2004 - 07:49 AM UTC
I've been using drywall for years to scratchbuild structures, streets, bridges, runways, bunkers, etc., etc. It can be carved/sanded/painted/washed/stained, etc. You can pick up all you'll ever need FREE by going to any construction site and asking for the scrap pieces, or go "Dumpster Diving" on your own. Here's what you do:

. Cut out the shape(s) you need. Soak them in hot water for about 30-45 minutes to loosen the glue.

. Take a putty knife (1" is a good size) and gently scrape off the carboard and glue. For structures, etc. scrape both sides. For streets, you only need to do one. What you will have left is concrete, complete with natural imperfections.

. For structures, let dry then carve in bricks/stones, or leave plain, depending on what your exterior will look like, then finish with paint, stain, wash or pastels. Interiors can be finished the same, or for a little extra detail add dollhouse wallpaper. Use drywall or balsa to trim windows and doors. For battle damage, just flick off little pieces of concrete with the tip of an ex-acto knife to simulate bullet hits, larger pieces for heavier hits. For broken walls, stick pieces of scale wire into the ends to simulate exposed reinforcing bar. Join walls together with Spackle or similar product to maintain concrete effect.

. For streets, while still wet, take the putty knife and gently scrape off concrete to scale depth and width where you want the street to be. What you will have is a street and sidewalks. Then carve in your bricks and finish as in the structures. For cobblestones, carve your bricks deep and then gently wire brush them to get the rounded effect.

If you break a piece you're working on, or just don't like the way it turned out, broken pieces make great rubble. You can even make your own bricks with a jewelers saw and a little patience. It will take a litle experimenting, but you'd be surprised how fast you can build something with this stuff once you get the hang of it, and remember-it's FREE!. Enjoy.

Art
Cuhail
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Illinois, United States
Member Since: February 10, 2004
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Posted: Sunday, March 21, 2004 - 09:32 PM UTC
Clever ideas. I believe I will try something with that.
Colt45
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Florida, United States
Member Since: May 01, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, June 26, 2004 - 11:37 AM UTC
Art, that sounds like a great method. I will try that on my next project. I also have used wall compound to make roads and terrain. It can be easily colored and looks realistic. Just thought I throw another tip in.
Cristo
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District of Columbia, United States
Member Since: August 09, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 05:07 AM UTC
i tryed it and couldnt quite get it. the concrete just kept on crumbeling. could you follow up on how to use it?

thanks
RAF-Mad
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Oregon, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:47 AM UTC
I have been trying to make a wall for my first dio for like a week out of plaster and every time it break its very annoying and its always a hidge piece, well for a 1:72 building. I might have to try these drywall ideas i got some about ...somewhere. The only thing is i think it would be a bit to thick for braille scale owulding it?
Art
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Michigan, United States
Member Since: March 20, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:32 PM UTC
Cristo:
I'd be glad to help you out if you could let me know the specifics on what's happening and at what stage of construction, etc.

Raf-Mad:
Yes, it might be a little too thick for 1/72, but you can sand it down, very gently, after drying.

Any other problems, let me know.

Art
Marty
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Massachusetts, United States
Member Since: June 16, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 - 08:54 PM UTC
Raf-Mad,

For the 1:72 scale you may be better off building walls out of thick cardboard and covering it with Spackle or some other wall covering compound. Sheetrock (drywall) comes in different sizes and I think 3/8 inch is the thinnest you can get it. It would be a lot of work trying to sand that down to the right scale.

Cristo,

When building a house facade, cut out all the windows and doors before you remove the paper backing. With paper on, you will be able to drill and cut it without having to worry about the plaster cracking on you. Once your are done cutting out all the openings, soak the Sheetrock in some warm water and then gently peal the paper. When done, put it aside for a couple of days. Since Sheetrock will soak up the water it will become brittle and may crumble if handled too soon.
As an alternative to Sheetrock you can use Blueboard which is the same thing but it is designed to handle moisture better than Sheetrock.
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