I am not sure if it was here or some place else that I've read about someone making gap-filling putty out of super glue and baking soda. Does anyone know what I am talking about (or I am just going crazy)? If so, I would like to know how this is done as I have tried with Zap-A-Gap and had very little luck.

i ve made some home putty using standard modelling glue Humbrol nd Johnson baby powder, following the instructions of a modelling magazine. But didnt see it work better than the tubed putties (Mr Putty, or Squadron) so why do it? Its ok to scratch a lot but some things can easily be used as we know them !!!

I am asking because I currently do not have any type of gap-filling putty and need it. I guess I will have to make that 2-hour long trip to the hobby store.

Nope. You don't use it to make putty. What you do is fill in the gab with superglue and then sprinkle on baking soda. The soda gives it some substance and also makes the superglue dry instantly. You can also do it in reverse and sprinkle some soda along the area and then touch it with the superglue, but I've found that will also seal the top of the glue nozzle.

The only one I ever tried was the squadron green on the hull of my R/C Miss Budwiser, when she decided to stick wide open and wouldn't turn, and smashed into the rocks at better then 30 miles an hour, needless to say it took me a while, but it finally got to where you didn't even see a mark, but I got some bondo the other day, and my new models are supposed to come today then I will give it a try and tell you how it worked, if it works as good, it will save you a lot of money cause you get ten times the putty for the same price as squadron, and if it don't I'll say it didn't. So for now I'm waiting on that brown truck to give it a try.

I don't know how it is at other places, but here the only super glue you can buy is in tiny little tubes, and cost well over a dollar, and if you use it on your seems then you will have non left to build your model, now I never ordered it from the on line hobby shops, that if you would get bigger quantitys, but it also seems really expensive to me.

Most Hobbyshops have Super Glue in 1/2, 1 and 2 oz Bottles.

What i tend to use now is Power Bond gap filler,great results
Arthur

Hey Mark,

What you said now makes sense. It also explains what happened to my CA/soda mixture. When I dripped glue on top of the baking soda it instantly hardened. I am talking less than a second. It was completely useless. I think the sprinkling it would work out fine for what I need to do.

Thanks all for your suggestions.

Well I got my Marder 3 yesterday, and was looking over some sink holes, so I thought no better time to try that Bondo glazing & spot putty, now the Marder had a very noticeable sink in the chassis right in the center going all the way from one of the suspension arms all the way to the bottom, so I put a drop on and wiped it with a plastic card to get it as smooth as I could and left it, then got up this morning and sanded it, and it done a fine job. It is fine for small jobs like that but I would not suggest it for adding weight or anything, cause it acted as though it has the same characteristics as glue by melting the plastic on the skin, but that helps make it bond real good so it shouldn't fall out. So I would say it done exactly what I wanted it to do. Hope this helps the people like me that don't have access to a local hobby shop.

PSST. . Hey guys. . . USE "Supafilla": TALCUM (baby) powder mixed 50/50 with superglue. Baking soda will dry harder the longer it sets, much harder, in the end,than the surrounding plastic, (Supafilla will not), and it gives off noxious fumes as it cures (Supafilla does not). Drop the superglue into a pile of baby powder, mix the powder into the glue 'til you get a slightly runny toothpaste consistency, apply to your model, wait 15 minutes, and start sanding! Don't over apply, however, as Supafilla doesn't shrink, and the more you apply the the more you'll have to sand. It has no solvents to "melt" the plastic, so you can use it even on the thinnest plastic, even vacuforms. In fact, it's great for filling sanding/cutting errors in vac parts; it actually adds structural rigidity, because it is a "composite". It also works on resin! The "Car Guys" have been using it for years to do major "custom" recontouring on their models, since it doesn't have to be applied in thin layers: it won't soften whatever's underneath it.