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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
which Kits have the most Fly Away Parts ?
Delbert
#073
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Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 - 11:35 AM UTC
Hello Everyone.

I'm currently building my first AFV Club kit, a M-10 Achilles.

Now I know every kit has some parts that just want to fly away. But it seems to me there is just something about the plastic of this kit, because it seems that every small part wants to be set free..

So which kits do you think have the most flying parts...

right now I vote for AFV Club as #1.

Be interesting to see what everyone else thinks..

Delbert
jon_a_its
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Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 - 08:27 PM UTC
Use a good quality side cutter, (Xuron) and put the sprue in a clear plastic bag to catch the part.

Tamiya & AFV club use a better quality harder plastic than some, 'with added 'ping-yness''
Delbert
#073
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Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2013 - 10:25 PM UTC
Hey Jon

The plastic bag is a good Idea, although I don't have much of a problem with when I cut them off the sprue.

they fly away on me during clean up mostly. I'm looking into putting a groove in some tweezers to see if I can hang on to them better.

LOL

Delbert
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 02:11 AM UTC
If you really want to keep track of them, you should buy some neon orange marking paint. I think a can only costs $5. Spray the sprues, before you start working. Trying holding the pieces closer to your workbench. They are less likely to fly too far. And, finally, I work over a large piece of white plastic. This makes it very easy to overcome the carpet monster.
andromeda673
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 02:51 AM UTC
I have found that if you put a tweezers on the smaller parts and cut them with a hobby knife, they won't go everywhere, but I do agree with you about Tamiya, their newer kits have high quality plastic and the parts do seem to pop more.

I also work directly over the instructions, and cut the parts where they are on the diagrams, that helps me keep track of them as well.
jon_a_its
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 02:58 AM UTC
Where possible, I cut the runner* close to the Sprue**
leaving the stub of runner* on the item, & hold this with medical forceps, wooden pegs, or drill a small hole in the reverse side & glue in a cocktail stick to hold to.

Then there's double sided sticky tape, blue/white tack, PVA/Elmers', etc., whatever it takes.

Even with a dedicated hobby-room, smooth wooden floors, a work-apron with magnets on the bottom edge to snap to the bottom of my table AND ALL of THE ABOVE....

I still manage to feed 'He-who-must-not-be-named (C.M.) though...

Runner* & Sprue**: I know these aren't the technically correct terms, but I hope you know what I mean...
wychdoctor92394
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 04:13 AM UTC
The harder the plastic (lesser quality), the more likely the chance of having fly-aways. Here, we call 'em "ping-f@*k-its" - a term often used in electronic repair and more often heard when doing one's own brake replacement (drum brakes especially). I guess the more accurate term for modeling would be "snip-tick-ping-"f@*k-it!"

retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, August 14, 2013 - 05:28 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The harder the plastic (lesser quality), the more likely the chance of having fly-aways. Here, we call 'em "ping-f@*k-its" - a term often used in electronic repair and more often heard when doing one's own brake replacement (drum brakes especially). I guess the more accurate term for modeling would be "snip-tick-ping-"f@*k-it!"




So, Tamiya is better quality plastic than the detail heavy Dragon , AFV and Trumpeter plastic?
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