Hosted by Matt Leese
Best Glue?
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Wednesday, January 23, 2013 - 11:57 PM UTC
I currently use Bob Smith CA (all types), Testors (sparingly) and epoxy(vary rarely). My question is, what do you think the best brand and type of adhesive is best for plastic to plastic and resin to plastic?
fhvn4d
#159
Member Since: April 07, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 12:36 AM UTC
Gorilla makes a super glue that I like alot. It is very thick, but applying with a toothpick is easy, and its extremely strong. Zip kicker works with it, but it does take a little longer to set up. it comes in a fairly large bottle, and the biggest complaint I have is that in order to get it out, the neck opening is fairly large and gets caked with product. Other than that, I pretty much have gotten away from any other CA glues except maybe the super thin stuff for mating surfaces.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 12:47 AM UTC
I have seen that MM plastic cement comes with a metal applicator. Does this make it easier to apply than the Testors cement that comes in a similar bottle, but with a plastic neck?
fhvn4d
#159
Member Since: April 07, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 12:58 AM UTC
My experiences with that metal applicator is YES it does make it very convenient. I will caution you though with two points. First and foremost, DO NOT LOSE THE LITTLE PIECE OF WIRE THAT COMES WITH IT! It will come in handy as the tip tends to clog (especially if you forget to clear the tip after use). The second is that once you put the metal pipe into the bottle, do not mess with it. I had a couple of them leak between the metal and plastic because I kept pushing the metal rod in and out. As for the glue contained in it, I really like that glue. It softens quickly and dries fast too.
pseudorealityx
Member Since: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 01:06 AM UTC
I use Tamiya extra thin cement almost exclusively for plastic to plastic. Unless you 'need' a long working time, it blows away Testors MM cement. I do have the bottle of Testors MM with the metal tip, but I use it when I need long working times, like when I've got long connection points, like between an upper and lower hull.
For resin or PE to anything, I just use medium Zap CA, applied with toothpicks.
I would never use CA for plastic to plastic. That's just inviting problems.
For resin or PE to anything, I just use medium Zap CA, applied with toothpicks.
I would never use CA for plastic to plastic. That's just inviting problems.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 02:26 AM UTC
I've never had a problem using CA glue to bond plastic. My LHS now stocks Tamiya cement. My biggest problem with "plastic" cement is that, once set, it melts the plastic. So, if I ever need to relocate a part, I'm left with an eye sore.
pseudorealityx
Member Since: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 04:11 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I've never had a problem using CA glue to bond plastic. My LHS now stocks Tamiya cement. My biggest problem with "plastic" cement is that, once set, it melts the plastic. So, if I ever need to relocate a part, I'm left with an eye sore.
And if you glue the wheels on, you'll never be able to have a mock Battle of the Bulge in your living room!==)
If you need to relocate something, add more cement, and it'll melt the connection you have, and you can typically get it off. And you can clean up the 'eyesore' the same way as you have to on anything else. Sanding, putty, etc.
Using CA for plastic to plastic in 99% of cases is inferior to plastic cement. It's messy, hard to control, and doesn't evaporate.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 04:44 AM UTC
In my opinion the best one is Medium Zap CA, but I never use to glue plastic to plastic.
Problems aside, plastic glue gives a stronger bond in that case
Problems aside, plastic glue gives a stronger bond in that case
ivanhoe6
Member Since: April 05, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 05:09 AM UTC
I like a German glue, Faller's "Super Expert". A metal applicator tip and is very thin. Draw back is it will dry quickly both on the mating surfaces and in the applicator tube. It's a bit dangerous to clear the clog. I use a lighter. So make sure you don't have any open thinner. ALSO, remember that gravity is your friend when you apply it don't squeeze it very hard if at all otherwise you gotta big mess.
Tom
Tom
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 09:28 AM UTC
I have used Zap-A-Gap, in the past. It has always clogged on me. I only squeeze out a drop and apply with a piece of piano wire. I don't like having to drill out the old glue. That is one of the reasons I use Bob Smith with a separate neck.
What I like about CA glue is that it sets, almost instantly. I apply it sparingly and it is great for tacking pieces in place to paint or use as a guide.
I've come down to the option of MM, Testors, and Tamiya. I'll look into Faller's, but prefer to not have to pay shipping costs on something readily available in other brands.
I have one more question. What type of glue do you use for clear parts? I'm currently using Testors clear parts cement, but the bond formed is very weak.
What I like about CA glue is that it sets, almost instantly. I apply it sparingly and it is great for tacking pieces in place to paint or use as a guide.
I've come down to the option of MM, Testors, and Tamiya. I'll look into Faller's, but prefer to not have to pay shipping costs on something readily available in other brands.
I have one more question. What type of glue do you use for clear parts? I'm currently using Testors clear parts cement, but the bond formed is very weak.
Spiderfrommars
Member Since: July 13, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 11:10 AM UTC
A tip which I can give to prevent the CA glue from clogging it's keeping the glue bottles in your fridge. I bought some of my glue bottles about 2 years ago, and they're still perfect
ivanhoe6
Member Since: April 05, 2007
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 11:13 AM UTC
Matt, I get Fallers at the local hobby shop. They specialize in trains and Faller primary products are HO German style buildings.
Tom
Tom
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 11:50 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Matt, I get Fallers at the local hobby shop. They specialize in trains and Faller primary products are HO German style buildings.
Tom
My LHS specializes in r/c and trains, but only carries MM, Testors, Tamiya and Bob Smith adhesives.
pseudorealityx
Member Since: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 01:59 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have one more question. What type of glue do you use for clear parts? I'm currently using Testors clear parts cement, but the bond formed is very weak.
Regular white glue. I don't need an overly strong bond for clear parts, so it works fine.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Thursday, January 24, 2013 - 10:35 PM UTC
I'm going to pick up a bottle of MM and Tamiya cement, next trip to my lhs.
Dragon164
#226
Member Since: February 20, 2012
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 - 12:19 AM UTC
I use Tenax-7R and I apply with a Testors paint brush, before getting back into the hobby recently I used to use Weld-on #3 but have not found it locally yet.
Cheers Rob.
Cheers Rob.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 - 01:05 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I use Tenax-7R and I apply with a Testors paint brush, before getting back into the hobby recently I used to use Weld-on #3 but have not found it locally yet.
Cheers Rob.
My lhs has that in, occasionally. For some reason, they won't order products by customer request.
imatanker
Member Since: February 11, 2011
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 - 10:51 AM UTC
For plastic to plastic,I find Myself going back to Tamiya Extra Thin time and time again.If I need a little fill,I use Testors 8872 Liquid Cement For Plastic Models.The one with the metal tip.As for "super glue" goes, Loctite Gel Control and Power Easy Control fill the bill.Jeff T.
ACESES5
Member Since: April 04, 2010
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Posted: Friday, January 25, 2013 - 12:54 PM UTC
I like Testors bottle glue take out the metel tube replace with a teflon extra fine tip you can get tnem from sprubrothers.com. I also like Zap-a-gap & lock tite ca Elmers for gluing clear parts. 
ACESES5
ACESES5retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 12:25 AM UTC
I should make it to my lhs by Friday. Give me a day or two to compare and I'll post which I think is the best and why.
As far as Tenax goes, I remember using it when I first started. I may have had a bad bottle. The glue would not adhere to plastic.
I have a tube of Testors and have used it, long ago. It is a horrible, smelly mess.
As far as Tenax goes, I remember using it when I first started. I may have had a bad bottle. The glue would not adhere to plastic.
I have a tube of Testors and have used it, long ago. It is a horrible, smelly mess.
pseudorealityx
Member Since: January 31, 2010
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 02:40 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I should make it to my lhs by Friday. Give me a day or two to compare and I'll post which I think is the best and why.
As far as Tenax goes, I remember using it when I first started. I may have had a bad bottle. The glue would not adhere to plastic.
I have a tube of Testors and have used it, long ago. It is a horrible, smelly mess.
Tenax isn't supposed to 'adhere' to plastic. It's a very thin cement. You need to place your pieces together, and apply a very small amount and it will wick itself into the joint, melt both sides, and weld the plastic together.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 10:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI should make it to my lhs by Friday. Give me a day or two to compare and I'll post which I think is the best and why.
As far as Tenax goes, I remember using it when I first started. I may have had a bad bottle. The glue would not adhere to plastic.
I have a tube of Testors and have used it, long ago. It is a horrible, smelly mess.
Tenax isn't supposed to 'adhere' to plastic. It's a very thin cement. You need to place your pieces together, and apply a very small amount and it will wick itself into the joint, melt both sides, and weld the plastic together.
I'll go by my local Yeager's Hardware. Believe it or not, it is the only option for getting hold of Tenax. Turns out the owner is big on model aircraft.
SgtRam
Contributing Writer#197
Member Since: March 06, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 11:35 AM UTC
As for the best glue, I believe it is up to the individual modeler and what works best for them. I personally use a variety of glues, based on the need. In my stock of glue I have Tamiya Extra thin, a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Extra Thin and Tamiya Liquid, Testor Liquid Glue, Tenax 7R, Gorilla Glue, Gorilla Super Glue, Testor Liquid Cement in the red and black dispenser, Testor Clear Parts Cement, 2 different CA glues, epoxy, white glue......
Thus depending on the need will determine what glue I use. So to me, best glue is based on use and most modeler have their own specific uses for each glue.
Thus depending on the need will determine what glue I use. So to me, best glue is based on use and most modeler have their own specific uses for each glue.
retiredyank
Member Since: June 29, 2009
entire network: 11,610 Posts
KitMaker Network: 3,657 Posts
Posted: Saturday, January 26, 2013 - 11:49 AM UTC
Quoted Text
As for the best glue, I believe it is up to the individual modeler and what works best for them. I personally use a variety of glues, based on the need. In my stock of glue I have Tamiya Extra thin, a 50/50 mix of Tamiya Extra Thin and Tamiya Liquid, Testor Liquid Glue, Tenax 7R, Gorilla Glue, Gorilla Super Glue, Testor Liquid Cement in the red and black dispenser, Testor Clear Parts Cement, 2 different CA glues, epoxy, white glue......
Thus depending on the need will determine what glue I use. So to me, best glue is based on use and most modeler have their own specific uses for each glue.
I haven't found a glue, except Gorilla, that I won't be purchasing. I forgot, I even have a tube of Academy glue.
Tankrider
Member Since: October 07, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 06:42 AM UTC
OK,
I will be the one to admit that I am ecologically unsound and use MEK for plastic part assembly. Yup, it does have a strong smell and can be hazardous to my health if I decide to drink or intentionally inhale the vapors but the bottle, an old Tamiya Thin Glue bottle stays capped most of the time. The cost is right (around $9.00 per quart) and I can use it for cleaning stubborn dried paint in brushes and the airbrush, via cotton swabs vice spraying. The MEK welds the plastic parts nicely and can be reactivated if required with more applications of MEK.
For CA, I use Zap Plastic CA, with applicator tips, a great technique to keep the bottle from drying out - I am still using the same bottle now well into the second year without any refrigeration.
John
I will be the one to admit that I am ecologically unsound and use MEK for plastic part assembly. Yup, it does have a strong smell and can be hazardous to my health if I decide to drink or intentionally inhale the vapors but the bottle, an old Tamiya Thin Glue bottle stays capped most of the time. The cost is right (around $9.00 per quart) and I can use it for cleaning stubborn dried paint in brushes and the airbrush, via cotton swabs vice spraying. The MEK welds the plastic parts nicely and can be reactivated if required with more applications of MEK.
For CA, I use Zap Plastic CA, with applicator tips, a great technique to keep the bottle from drying out - I am still using the same bottle now well into the second year without any refrigeration.
John
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