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Tools & Supplies: Glue and Adhesives
Talk about sticky stuff.
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Best Glue?
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 - 12:10 PM UTC
Picked up a bottle of Tamiya cement. It is much nicer than ca glues. However, when I need a stronger bond ca glue is better. I still plan on getting some MM cement, Friday. My lhs used to carry Tenax, but they have not restocked it in years. Label is there. Just no sign of product.
Joel_W
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AUTOMODELER
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New York, United States
Member Since: December 04, 2010
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Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 04:13 AM UTC

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I've never had a problem using CA glue to bond plastic. My LHS now stocks Tamiya cement. My biggest problem with "plastic" cement is that, once set, it melts the plastic. So, if I ever need to relocate a part, I'm left with an eye sore.



And if you glue the wheels on, you'll never be able to have a mock Battle of the Bulge in your living room!==)

If you need to relocate something, add more cement, and it'll melt the connection you have, and you can typically get it off. And you can clean up the 'eyesore' the same way as you have to on anything else. Sanding, putty, etc.

Using CA for plastic to plastic in 99% of cases is inferior to plastic cement. It's messy, hard to control, and doesn't evaporate.



I agree with Jesse point. CA just bonds, doesn't melt the plastic to create one piece. The only times I've ever had to separate parts is when I misaligned them, and just more Extra thin will soften up the joint enough to reposition the parts.
Joel
Joel_W
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Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 04:26 AM UTC
I use a assortment of glues depending on the job at hand. For joining large parts where I don't want the glue to dry to quickly, I prefer Testors MM liquid glue with the metal applicator. I apply it in drops, then spread it out with a toothpick. For smaller plastic parts I prefer Tamiya's Extra thin. A couple of dots on the part, then I glue them together. I follow up with touching the joint every inch or so with the applicator to have the glue run in and down the joint. Where I can't get a solid fit, I like to use a thicker glue like Tamiya's Orange cap. It dries quickly so I don't like it for large applications. For clear parts I prefer Allene's Tacky white glue over regular white glue. It's tacky right from the application, so holding the clear part in proper position is easier then white glue. You can get it at any Art & Crafts store like Michaels. I do use white glue to make clear lenses. For PE & Resin parts it's Gorilla CA. To fill joints such as PE fenders to plastic I use a Gel CA. It has a very long drying time, perfect to blend it in. And of course there is good old 2 part epoxy that I use to join vinyl tracks. I've yet to find any that doesn't bond permanently using epoxy.
Joel
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Member Since: June 29, 2009
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Posted: Monday, February 18, 2013 - 08:55 AM UTC
I'm in love with Tamiya cement. The only time I use CA glue, is when I need to tack a part in place for painting. I can easily separate it to add another part, of a different color. I also like ModelMaster glue over Testors. I've never had any luck with Testors cement and usually end up creating a big mess. Now my glues of choice are as follows:
Tamiya (usually extra thin)
Bob Smith Industries CA glue
Model Master
White glue (for clear pieces).
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