I just purchased my first resin parts & figures from Verlinden--they are amazing! After I clean them per info I read in a magazine article (bleach white tire cleaner), should I prime them prior to painting with Model Master enamels? (or whould I be better off painting with acrylics?)
--daredevil

with resin parts I always prime with a light grey to check for defects and to act as a bond for other paint.

Have to agree with Mr. Roo. I always prime resin as well. Its not easy to paint directly onto it otherwise. I use cheaper hobby primer from a local car/hobby shop but the likes of citadel primer or humbrol all are good. The trick is to prime from a distance and mist the paint on lightly. Dont try to cover all in the one attempt or it could pool and you will lose detail. Better to do it from each side and letting the other side dry first.
As well as helping paint bite to the resin... as Mr. Roo says ... it is easier to show up flaws, gaps, bad joints etc before starting to paint!

Hi daredevil

I agree with the others; I like to use Humbol primer thinned with cellulose (laquer) thinners.
It sprays on really fine, dries quickly and is pretty robust. (Ensure plenty of ventillation and wear a proper mask if you're spraying cellulose.)

All the best

Rowan

DD,

Well, I will put one of those opposite words here. If you are comfortable with your resin additions (i.e., no errors) then I thouroughly clean them and then spray with acrylics; no enamels. If I do wnat to use enamels, I will always spray a primer coat.

But, if you think that there might be an error or two, or you are using the MM Enamels, then spray with a primer.

Dave
AMPS LA

I'm with the "primers". I always prefer to prime resin because often is difficult to see air bubbles and priming helps ti fill the smaller ones and to highlight the bigger ones.
Ciao

I also agree with Fabio. I have yet to come across a 'perfect' piece of moulded resin, therefore, expecting to address flaws or errant air bubbles, I ligthtly spray on a coat of Mr. Surfacer (depending upon whether I'm trying to ferret out the flaws, or I have already seen them) 500 or 1000. I know this product is a wee bit on the expensive side, but it acts like a bloodhound to sniff out hairline cracks, seams, bubbles and/or flaws and also starts to 'fill' said flaws. If the flaws are significant at all, I further use a brush and a jar of paintable Mr. Surfacer 500/1000. Again, expensive stuff, but it does the job extremely well! (my simple criteria).
From there I paint as I would any other kit.

Tread. :-)