I have heard a lot about people using super glue instead of model glue. What seems to work best for building the model and attaching parts to it?

I started out using regular model glue, then a friend of mine who had been modeling alot longer than me, introduced me to "Zap-A-Gap. I used that for about 1 1/2 years. Now I use a product called "Insta-cure +". They both seem to work very well and adhere your parts quickly. Not that I hurry through my kits. I just like to get to the painting and weathering part sooner then waiting for the old reliable testors to harden. Thanks. Chris (Tiger 1) Carney.

I use Ethyl Acetate. The cheapest modeling glue around, if you can get a hold of it. It's a welding type glue. I was talked into getting a gallon jug of it, I'll probably have it 3 or 4 eternities with the rate I am using it!!

It stinks to high heaven, but if you keep a cap loosely on, it works well for me. I probably will try some of the new glues out just to see what I think, but this has worked out well so far.

Plastic Weld by Plastruct (orange labeled glass container)

My personal favorite, but stinks real bad. Great for seams because it literally melts the two joining pieces together.

Trouble happens when I realize I attached the two pieces together wrong, or when small attachments fall into the glue wrong from my tweezers. You have to hurry to get it out of the Plastic Weld. It "welds" fairly quickly and sturdy.

I use Model Master's Liquid Glue, for nearly entire model. Also use Zap a Gap for any odd types of plastics and metal pieces. And occasionally I use Elmer's Glue All for clear parts and paper pieces or attaching "string" tow-cables.

As we all can see it comes down to a matter of personal preference. Experiment with various glues to find their different properties & uses and make your choices
- ralph

I'm with Kencelot here too. Testors Liquid Glue, thin and thick Superglue, and White Glue for attaching equipment and straps.

Jim
http://www.guntruck.com

Thanks for all the replies. I have some good info to go on now. I have been using the old model glue in the tube. I hate it. I can never get the right amount of glue to come out. I either get nothing or a ton to come out. thanks again for the help.

I use something else than most here : pure ethylacetate. Not very good for you health though LOL

Yah, I think you'll find that overall most folks avoid the tube stuff and use liquid cement of various brands. I also have a bottle of the Testors Liquid Cement as well as the Plastruct Plastic Weld.

I mainly use Testors liquid cement, but I do still have a use for the blue labeled Testors tube cement (orange smelling stuff). Mainly when gluing a large piece like a fuselage or wings, large hull, etc.

Regular, .99 cent Duro superglue from the grocery store, is what I use on photo etch and other materials. I use Tenex7R on plastic and good old fashion Elmers glue for the clear parts.

I have lately been using the Tamiya "Super Thin" liquid cement. Sets up fast and holds very well. Plus I have the usual assortment of Testors liquid cement, Testors in the black container and super glue.
For resin and photoetch I like the thick super glue packaged by Bob Smith Industries, usually sold at your local hobby shop with the shop's name on it.
This same company also makes a black "tire" super glue which I find useful for holding the suspension arms on the older MB Models resin kits

I'm also using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Just like Pipesmoker says, it sets up quick and has an excellent hold.

I use several types of glue, my most favorite though is the testors liquid cement. but i also found that when doing dio's there are not a lot of choices of glue that will stick and hold plastics to the "grass paper" i use. so i ty to mix epoxy, elmars, and water and it works quite well