I just got my first PE kit ever. I have never used it before. I am ordering one of the small shops hold and folds because I have a feeling I will be using more of the stuff. Anyway, I could use any advice anyone has on preping for paint or just general ideas to make it turn out well. Thanks all.

I second this thread. I myself just received my first photo etch brass for my Panzer 38(t) and from what (little) I know picked up on various sites:

you need a good cutting surface (some use aluminum sheet some use ceramic tiles).

You need a good set of clippers/cutters so you get a clean cut (some use hobby blades but they dull quickly).

Some back the brass with masking tape so the pieces don't fly off in the air ( "with the greatest of ease")

Now I don't own a "bending tool" so I would be up for advice in this area.

Hmm a cyanoacrylate for glueing pieces...

Anything else peeps?

MSW


Go Leafs GO!!!

A good set of tweezers and a ton of patience!

PE really adds to the detail,but you need to becareful how you handle it.
as it bends real easy

Hi Andrew. Ahhhhhhhhhh ! - Welcome to the PE Zone !
Just be patient & have some good tools like was said.
I don't have a "Hold & Fold yet, but from the modelers i know
who do, it make's a big difference.
Xuron makes some great tools for cutting & bending PE, and I use
them exclusively.
Although at first PE is a bit tedious you will get acustomed to it,
and like myself & many other modelers, you will find it very addictive, and
want to use it again & again.
It will definitely improves the look, authenticity, & accuracy
of an armored vehicle.
Always make sure you prime your PE before painting, and
best to use cyanoacrylate glue
You have really opened a new door to modeling accuracy, and
will enjoy working with PE within your initial experience. The more
you work with this accessory ther better at it you will become.
It's a bit of a learning process of "trial & error ", but is well worth
your every effort !
Have fun & enjoy yourself !
- ralph

I cut my PE with a 'second best' hobby blade (one that has been recently replaced in the 'first blade' handle) I cut on a piece of scrap .040 plastic sheet. I secure the piece with my finger, to prevent launches...most of the time. I use slower setting CA glue to attach the pieces and nail polish remover on a Q-tip to clean up stray CA.

I do recommend getting some accelerator for those occasion you don't want to hold a part until it sets. For some reason the best jigs I have found for holding folded parts in just the right position while I glue the edges together are...my fat fingers (used with care...see below!). I am not patient enough to wait out the glue, which sets much more slowly when you are waiting on it. So I use accelerator to force the issue, and set the glue. Just be sure the accelerator is blown off and dried up before you put more glue on a part...glue into accelerator gives the same results as accelerator onto glue!

I fold 'n' bend with several styles of small pliers I bought in a set from Sears. A fine needlenose and a flat-jawed square tip seem the most useful. The plier set wasn't very expensive (~$10 IIRC). The eduard PE has fold lines etched in, and usually folds without much urging. I use the fine needlenose pliers as a tweezer to handle and install the part, and don't have too much problem with 'tweezer launches' because of it (I did launch a part from my fat fingers the other day, though!)

You can make it really complicated, but I haven't experienced much trouble using PE. I love what it adds to the model, and really don't think it is that much trouble to use.

Here's a couple of sites to help you out with working with PE:

http://www.twenot.nl/photo1.htm

http://eduard.rvsnet.cz/info/colin.html

a very timely question for me as im on my way to ordering a kit and photo etch set for the first time. Am thinking of doing the popular Tamiya Marder III but am just trying to find out how available PE sets are in australia.....or who i can order sets through. I would order directly from the net if i had a credit card....but i choose not to have one

I am not sure how to find them in your country. I would try to contact some of the internet companies and see if you could send them a money order or if they take a check or something. I am sure someone out there wants your money bad enough that they will work with you on it. If nothing else, find a friend and pay them upfront and then charge that amount on there card. Where there is a will there is a way I am sure.

If you can't get the xuron cutters where You live try looking at jewlers tools. I don't bother priming but do clean the frets just like I do with a regular plastic kit. Also keep different diameter plastic rod around for forming things like light guards and shaping round parts. I've also bought of the following...

Jewlers anvil
4 inch vice
90 deg. metal angles
small hammer like those used for ship building
a few differnt types of tweezers
a good needle nose pliers and a squared tip pliers.

Most of these can be found at Micro Mark, their online at www.micromark.com
After you've done a few etch sets you'll probably find your own preferences, good luck.

Josh

I myself just use two Stanley Knife blades, an old tile, Needle tweezers, 20 marlboro and a bottle of Jack D!
After a couple of kits you'll get the hang of it! Don't end up with 4 stitches on the end of your thumb either!!!!!!Doh

Don't forget that the PE has some oil residue (as well as from your fingers) on it. This needs to be removed by Windex or alcohol and a lint-free cloth. It will help insure glue and paint adhesion. Some parts are best cleaned on the fret, others that require handling will need to be wiped down after forming.

I love photoetched brass, and if a particular AFV of softskin has the PE available (i.e. Eduard or Aber), I will use it. Of course many pieces are not used, and I usually will replace brackets, latches, and at times, side skirts and fenders.
The tools that I have on hand are:
1) X-Acto blade #11 to cut pieces from fret.
2) Squadron fine sanding stick, to sand down edges.
3) Bending Pliers (from Miro-Mark).
4) Candle, to heat large pieces (it is easier to bend when it is heated).
5) Vinegar (this makes a chemical reaction that gives the brass texture, which allows the paint to adhere much better)
6) SUPER GLUE!!!!!

By heating large pieces of brass, it allows you to bend the brass in the appropriate place (i.e. fenders). The Vinegar is great, because it causes a chemical reation that makes the brass rougher in texture. Lastly, I always prime my brass pieces. :-)

Thanks Tiger1 . Very helpful.

Marek As for the Marlboros and Jack D, I don't think I'd ever get a kit done that way

MSW

Go Leafs Go!!!!

Thank god for posts like these. Just what some doctor somewhere ordered for somebody somewhere. It was useful for me as well. /Frank