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Modeling in General
General discussions about modeling topics.
filling very shallow sink holes?
godfather
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:48 AM UTC
How do you fill these the putty doesn't want to stay in the depression. I am talking about shallow holes on my AFV tracks. Any suggestions
jrnelson
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 11:55 AM UTC
Typically I apply the putty with a No. 11 exacto blade (the blade with the flat end), and apply more putty than is required. I kind of "squeegy" it into the depression, much like you would do with plaster on a crack in the wall. Then I let this dry a good while and use a needle file to "sand" the dome off the putty.

Otherwise I just apply several very thin layers of putty until the depression is gone. The trick to get the putty to stay put in the sink mark is to let it "set up" before applying more putty. When doing a set of tracks, by the time I'm done with them the first time through, the ones I did first are dry enough for some more putty.

Hope that helps-
Jeff
keenan
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 12:19 PM UTC
If the depressions are really shallow you may try some "White Out" correction fluid. I have also used regular white glue (Elmer's) to fill shallow depressions and small gaps.

Just a couple of suggestions...

Shaun
Tony_Frey
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 01:25 PM UTC
I concur w/ using the white glue. It's really easy to use, and levels out great. Never have tried the correction fluid, might have to give that a whirl.
capnjock
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 05:31 PM UTC
I have used correction fluid basically for thin seams that need to be filled. Works good most of the time. Not so good on wider seams. For shallow depressions, I usually rough up the area with sandpaper then use green or white filler depending on the base color of thr plastic. Mostly it is try a little of this or that and see what works the best for you.
capnjock
Merlin
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AEROSCALE
#017
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 06:06 PM UTC
Hi Godfather

In addition to the above, you could try a drop of cyanocrylate - it feathers in beautifully.

Also Vallejo Acrylic Filler is handy - excess can be removed with a cotton-bud and nail varnish remover, without attacking the plastic.

Hope this helps

Rowan
scoccia
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 06:52 PM UTC
In my experience to fill the sink holes the best thing is to cut disks of a matching diameter with a punch & die set from a plastic sheet of the approprtiate tickness, glue them in place and finish with putty if needed.
Ciao
Merlin
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#017
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Posted: Thursday, August 28, 2003 - 07:06 PM UTC

Quoted Text

In my experience to fill the sink holes the best thing is to cut disks of a matching diameter with a punch & die set from a plastic sheet of the approprtiate tickness, glue them in place and finish with putty if needed.
Ciao



Hi Fabio

That actually sounds like you're tackling "ejector-pin marks". These are the annoying circles ((usually (or so it sometimes seems!) placed in the most visible places!)) caused by the pins used to push the plastic sprue from the mould.

As I understand them, "sink holes" are irregular shapes, often caused by thick moulded details on the reverse side of the part - I presume is a cooling problem in the moulding process.

Whatever, your "disk & fill" technique is perfect for pin marks :-)

All the best

Rowan
Holdfast
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IPMS-UK KITMAKER BRANCH
#056
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Posted: Friday, August 29, 2003 - 07:12 AM UTC
:-) What I do is to drill into the sink hole (a couple of times if it's big) this will give the filler something to anchor to. Just done this very thing on my Otaki/Airfix P-51, works very well :-)
Mal
scoccia
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Posted: Friday, August 29, 2003 - 10:15 PM UTC
Sorry for the prev post, I' didn't get it properly. To be more "on topic" con that try I fill these kind of holes with CA glue then sprinkle on it talc powder, baking soda or whatewer suits on the CA. It dries almost immediately then sand it and finish it with putty...
Ciao
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