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Tools & Supplies: Airbrushes
Talk about airbrushes.
Hosted by Matt Leese
Best buy airbrush??
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 12:30 AM UTC
Hi, I was wondering which airbrush gives the best performance for an affordable price. I'm on my third that stopped working within two weeks of use and am getting quite frustrated.
TIA
3442
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 02:53 AM UTC
I purchased a sparmax dh-02 from luckymodel a few years back and its been working wonders since. Paid about 60 cdn with shipping. they are still available online I think.

I see a lot of peole using some of the tamiya airbrushes which go for a little more than 100$.

Truth is that most airbrushes will run you between 100 and 200$ once you include hoeses and adapters. Depends on what you mean by cheap; but if you take care of your airbrush and clean it well, it should last you SEVERAL years... Think of all the folks still running their original badger 150.
MCR
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 04:25 AM UTC
Like Francois said, how much are you willing to pay?
All the name brands are going to be fairly expensive even on sale but there are knock off type alternatives that can be dirt cheap like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95810

(Please note that I DO NOT ADVOCATE the purchase of PRC made tools of any sort, KO's or not. But if you're stuck between a rock and a hard place they can provide a temporary solution when money is tight.)

Similarly, compressors can be found for less than $50 from time to time. For instance my compressor, a fairly expensive example that I had used for many years, failed on me in the middle of a project and needed to be replaced quickly. The local Pep Boys auto store had one with a one gallon tank for, IIRC, $40. I bought it thinking that I'd replace it within a few weeks but the thing is still pumping away under my workbench after two years.

Personally I've settled on Badger airbrushes for several reasons and my Model 150 is over thirty years old now and still doing yeoman's work (I also have a Model 100 IL that I use for detail work and a Paasche VL that I use for primer and base coats).

Mark
garthj
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 10:44 AM UTC
Dear Matt
There must be a reason for your airbrushes to fail. Two weeks?...sounds crazy!

As Francois mentioned, it depends what you want to spend.

You didnt mention what brands you have had that have failed and once again, perhaps you are doing something which is causing them to stop working. If you post your problems, perhaps someone here can help you.

Regards
Garth

SSGToms
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 01:23 PM UTC
Matt, didn't you just get an Iwata HP-C+?
Airbrushes, even the cheapest ones, last more than two weeks. You must be forgetting to do something. An Iwata has lasted me over 10 years without any new parts and is still going strong.
retiredyank
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 01:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Like Francois said, how much are you willing to pay?
All the name brands are going to be fairly expensive even on sale but there are knock off type alternatives that can be dirt cheap like this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95810

(Please note that I DO NOT ADVOCATE the purchase of PRC made tools of any sort, KO's or not. But if you're stuck between a rock and a hard place they can provide a temporary solution when money is tight.)

Similarly, compressors can be found for less than $50 from time to time. For instance my compressor, a fairly expensive example that I had used for many years, failed on me in the middle of a project and needed to be replaced quickly. The local Pep Boys auto store had one with a one gallon tank for, IIRC, $40. I bought it thinking that I'd replace it within a few weeks but the thing is still pumping away under my workbench after two years.

Personally I've settled on Badger airbrushes for several reasons and my Model 150 is over thirty years old now and still doing yeoman's work (I also have a Model 100 IL that I use for detail work and a Paasche VL that I use for primer and base coats).

Mark


I have purchased two of the Harbor Freight issues. They actually lasted longer that the AC one I just got. Still have both, but neither work. All is bright and shiney, but no paint flow.
P.S. no I never got the Iwata, I was just looking.
Tarok
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 02:27 PM UTC
I thought the recommended life of the AC was 5 years?
A few weeks ago you asked about saving the el cheapo brushes, did you try any of the suggestions? Airbrush Question

Other than "stopped working" and "no paint flow" you haven't told us much, and personally I don't believe in always throwing money at a situation like this unless other avenues have been addressed. What paint are you using? What are your thinning ratios and medium? What is your air source? If a compressor, what PSI are you running it at? And what type of compressor? Which model AC brush are you using? What have you done thus far to troubleshoot the issue? What are you cleaning the AB with? What is your process? I'd hate to see you spend $100+ on a decent rig only to bugger it up because you're doing something wrong.

Rudi

p.s. for the record, I used a Badger bottom feeder spraygun on compressed air cans to spray enamels (by far nastier than acrylics) for many years and never had issues with it. I now use a fancier Badger (don't recall the model as is about 10 years old) with a diaphragm (sp?) compressor.
slodder
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 02:41 PM UTC
I would say to go with the Premi-Air - G35 from the Airbrush company

It's inexpensive and it has been a very reliable brush.
Phil_H
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 04:25 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I would say to go with the Premi-Air - G35 from the Airbrush company

It's inexpensive and it has been a very reliable brush.



I've been using the Sparmax version (SP-35-C) of this brush since late 06. As Scott has said, it's inexpensive, very reliable and very controllable.
metooshelah
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Posted: Monday, December 07, 2009 - 09:15 PM UTC
hey Matt, before you go on spending money, have you tried cleaning your AB? maybe the nozzle is just clogged (or something to that effect)
MCR
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Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 04:24 AM UTC
Matt, seriously, AB's don't just fail, they are just too simple a tool. Something easily fixed has probably gone wrong and it could well be how you are cleaning them (in my early years of airbrush use I had similar problems).
No paint flow tells me that something has clogged up or the needle is stuck in the tip. Those are the only two things I can think of that would cause that.

What sort of paint have you been shooting and how have you been cleaning afterward?

You're first step should be to carefully disassemble your AB and check the nozzle and paint "pathways". If you don't have them you should be able to find instructions and parts diagrams on-line.
You may need to soak the parts in cleaner (there are a couple of good ones on the market) and if really bad maybe even lacquer thinner (be careful about that, some seals may not hold up well to lacquer thinner but if you have to do it those seals can always be replaced).

If all else fails you can send your AB's back to their makers and have them clean and check them (especially if you have a name brand). It won't be free but it'll be less than a new one!

In all honesty I wouldn't buy another AB until I knew exactly what the failure mode was.

Mark
MCR
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Posted: Tuesday, December 08, 2009 - 12:07 PM UTC
BTW, if you are willing I'd be happy to take a look at any one of your brushes, and clean it if necessary, for only the cost of return postage.

Mark
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 01:21 AM UTC
I think the mix is too lean. I was doing 2:1 ratio. But, being an automotive airbrush the ratio should be closer to 5:3. I have not thrown out any of my old brushes. I read that I need to clean out the bottles, as well. I may have to purchase some new bottles, but I will try the new ratio on the AC brand first.
Merlin
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AEROSCALE
#017
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Posted: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 01:28 AM UTC
Hi Matt

Check the nozzle is screwed on properly. Even if the airbrush is spotlessly clean, you won't get any paint flow if the nozzle isn't on tight. Do you get any bubbles appearing in the paint cup? - that's often a tell-tale sign of a loose nozzle.

All the best

Rowan
retiredyank
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Posted: Wednesday, December 09, 2009 - 04:32 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Hi Matt

Check the nozzle is screwed on properly. Even if the airbrush is spotlessly clean, you won't get any paint flow if the nozzle isn't on tight. Do you get any bubbles appearing in the paint cup? - that's often a tell-tale sign of a loose nozzle.

All the best

Rowan


I do get bubbles. Going to check the nozzle right now.
Thanks Rowan
SSGToms
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Posted: Friday, December 11, 2009 - 12:07 PM UTC
Bubbles in the paint cup can also indicate a blockage of dried paint in the airbrush head or nozzle.
Storm-Wolf
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Posted: Monday, December 28, 2009 - 04:53 PM UTC
Hi all
I'm still hand painting my models(aircraft) I want to start spraying. What is the best thing for me to do as a starter on the spraying game.
I live in South Africa so I 'm very limited, I need to buy online.
I want start building LRDG models.

Have a blast of a day.
retiredyank
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Posted: Sunday, February 13, 2011 - 04:13 AM UTC
OK. I fixed my ab with extensive cleaning some time ago. It still gives me and occassional problem, but I love my Badger 150. Now, the main trigger does not close completely when I let off of it. I replaced the spring with no effect. I oiled it using 'Needle Juice" with no effect. It is super shiny, but sticks. Anybody ever encountered this problem? I need to pick up another air hose to get my knock-offs working.
Phil_H
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Posted: Friday, February 18, 2011 - 06:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Now, the main trigger does not close completely when I let off of it. I replaced the spring with no effect.



When you say "does not close", do you mean the airflow or the paint?

If it is the air, then your most likely suspect is a dirty/fouled O-ring in the air valve assembly.

If you return the trigger to the rest position with the button depressed (ie. no paint, but with the air air on) and the paint continues to flow, it may simply be a matter of re-seating the needle. Loosen the needle chuck, withdraw the needle about half an inch, then gently press it back in till it stops and re-tighten the needle chuck.
retiredyank
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Posted: Sunday, February 27, 2011 - 11:37 AM UTC
Hey guys. Got my Badger fixed. Don't ask how; it just started working again.
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