Tools & Supplies
Discussions on the latest and greatest tools, glues, and gadgets.
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The right adhesive for the job
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New Jersey, United States
Member Since: May 28, 2009
entire network: 239 Posts
KitMaker Network: 38 Posts
Posted: Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 09:18 AM UTC
Is there a concise guide to what adhesives are recommended for what jobs?

Like when is liquid adhesive preferred over CA?
What cure time CA for what job?
Does anyone use tube glue anymore?
For what joints are liquid welder more appropriate?

I've been using Testor's Liquid Cement, Tenax 7R, Hot Stuff Special 'T' (green label), and krazy glue... but without much rhyme or reason in many cases. Sometimes it's whichever is nearest my reach. Except I always use the Hot Stuff on PE.

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Jerusalem, Israel
Member Since: February 06, 2009
entire network: 1,507 Posts
KitMaker Network: 195 Posts
Posted: Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 09:29 AM UTC
hmm, I use revell glue (the one that comes in a bottle with a needle) for plastic parts, and tamyia glue for plastic surfaced. for PE and resin i use 'loctite superglue".
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New York, United States
Member Since: February 28, 2002
entire network: 5,957 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:24 AM UTC
I generally use Tamiya extra thin for plastic to plastic.

CA for resin & PE...... (medium or thin depending)

Epoxy for any joint that needs strength.
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Utah, United States
Member Since: December 14, 2007
entire network: 3,389 Posts
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Posted: Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 10:55 AM UTC
Pretty much the same with me. I use the Tamiya extra thin for plastic, testors in the bottle with the needle applicator for control on small spots and an odorless medium thickness CA for etch parts. I purchased a set of Mig control tips for CA bottles for better control of the glue.

The CA glue is great for holding parts together, but it won't flex and has no shear strength. For that reason I won't use it to assemble plastic as it won't hold the parts securely. You can get CA glue in thin, meduim, thick, extra thick and gel. The thicker the CA the longer the cure time (in my experience.) but the directions should give you some indication. The more glue you use on the surface the longer the cure time as well. Regular CA seems to leave a white film around it but the odorless I use does not.

Tube glue is still in use but it tends to form "spiderwebs" far easier and will mar the plastic surface if it leaks or is spilled. It is too difficult to control how much is applied. I don't have any experience with joint welding glue, although I have a friend who swears by Zap-a-gap, if this is the same thing.

Look up some of the builds on this site, and also check out ChuckW's builds on Aeroscale-the Helldiver all out build and his current Promodeller ME410 build (he should be posting an update tonight). He goes into detail explaining a lot about glue and how he applies it, including using some new (to me) techniques for attaching etch parts, filling gaps with CA and how he applies adhesives.
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New Jersey, United States
Member Since: May 28, 2009
entire network: 239 Posts
KitMaker Network: 38 Posts
Posted: Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 11:57 PM UTC
I used to use zap-a-gap for metal miniature assembly. The stuff I used was CA, not a liquid welder like the Tenax.

I've seen in one of Chuk's builds (that man is a maniac. I still have to go through my comic collection to see if I have any books he worked on... ) that he uses a touch-n-flow with liquid welder. That looks really nifty. I've been using an old brush.
He also uses the liquid welder to clean up rough styrene. I've tried that on really fine parts that won't take much sanding with some success (plastic hatch handles specifically). I carefully sand the worst and smooth it with the solvent. That way the final smoothing can be done with the part on the model and no fear or a tweezer catapult.
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Louisiana, United States
Member Since: April 13, 2005
entire network: 5,422 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 - 01:29 PM UTC
Plastic welder and Gator's Grip Hobby Glue.