I've seen a number of people here rave about the virtues of Gunze Sangyo's Mr Surfacer products as both primer and gap-filler. I'd like to give it a try, particularly as a gap-filler, but I've got some questions:

I see Mr Surfacer 500 and 1000 offered. What's the difference? Which is better for gap-filling?

I presume one brushes this stuff on from a bottle. Is that right?

If this stuff is thick/viscous enough for gap filling, how can it be used to prime without filling all the intentional gaps or holes, or without just destroying all the little detail?

Thanks very much.

Part-timer, I've never used it before but, I did find this little bit of info on it's use. You can read some other's questions about it.

Gunze Mr

Mr Surfacer 500 is thicker and better suited to fill gaps. Mr Surfacer 1000 is better for surface imperfections and as a primer/sealer thinned with Mr Thinner. Get some and try it out, it is great stuff.

Scott

Here's a tip on 500 and 1000. After it dries, you can smooth it with a Q-tip dipped in plain nail polish remover with acetone. Saves sanding, etc. The 1000 fills pinholes like magic.
Sealhead

Just a thought here....... Head over to the local wally world (Automotive section) and pickup a can of Sandable Primer it sounds like the same thing.........

It is cool stuff, I just used the 500 to give an Italeri sherman hull a cast texture. It works like a dream. I would stay away from the auto primer, my bottle of Mr. Surfacer only set me back $4.50 at Hobby Town, don't know the cost of the primer but it is probably pretty close in price. For so little savings do yourself a favor and buy the stuff that was actually formulated to work on styrene. To many guys seem to think nothing of spending $30-50 for a kit plus more for after market stuff and then get cheap with finishing supplies. Think about it....kind of like Rembrandt deciding he had spent to much on canvas and oils and the next masterpiece would be painted with a 5 cent foam brush!

Coop

Used it and liked it. Very effective in filling very very small gaps where putty can't adhere to. Used in conjunction with Mr. Putty and Mr. Color Thinner, one can fill that gap on Tamiya's Yamato and Musashi deck* without need of sanding and re-scribing the deck panels.

*the one that runs across the hull which was done so as to give access to the battery compartment when one is building it as a motorized model. If static model, this seam is ugly to the eye and hard to fix without re-scribing the deck panels - IMO at least.

I guy I know over here suggests making his own. Trial and error, but chopped up waste sprue left to basically 'dissolve' in styrene cement. Anybody tried it? Does it work?

Vinnie