Working on the M113 still, and Im getting ready to paint it up. Im going to do that salt technique on it. Im going to need a base coat first, im looking to do a dull metal but not like an aluminum. Does anyone have any good ratio's for getting that metal look??
thanks!!!!!!!!

You could always try Model Masters Metalizers, they have different colors to represent different types of metals. The downside is they say they are for Air Brushes only. (never used them personally) My other suggestion would be see if you can find reference on what kind of primer would have been used. If the paint was to chip, it could chip only the top layer of paint, and not all the way to metal. Just an alternative suggestion. Good luck!

Ola 19delta

What I always do when I want something to show off as Metal then I usually spray the whole vehicle in panzergrey or german grey and spray the other paints on top of that leaving the grey shine through at the edges. Then I do as described in this article by martin wilson
Creating realistic metal finishes by martin wilson
Another thing I usually do is simply go along the edges of the vehicle where my grey paint is showing through with the pencil and then you also leave a layer of graphite wich is shiny and will show off as it`s like real metal

Hope it`s of some help

m:-)

I work with a lot of aluminum plate at work. Aluminum oxidizes pretty quick, especially if outside. A really fresh scratch on an M113 might be shiny but not for very long. Oxidized aluminum is a matte light gray. I'll see if I can post a pic as an example...

Shaun

I was going to point in the direction Faust did - thanks man.

You could also try using a pastel as a pencil substitution.

Below is the picture. The bar on the left is "new" aluminum, the casting on the right is oxidized aluminum. I would imagine that scratches on the sides would oxidize fairly rapidly while areas worn by crew use would stay fairly shiny. Don't know if this helps at all or not.


Shaun

Hi all!

I actually use Model Master Metalizers with a paint-brush for small parts. They're great for radial engines and guns etc., because they dry so thin that they don't hide any detail.

You have to paint quickly, because they're supposedly "hot" i.e. the solvent may attack the plastic.

I've tried hand-brushing larger areas, but the result was very patchy... definitely best with an airbrush - then they're suberb!

All the best

Rowan

In the first post you mentioned the 'salt method' what is that? is it just like the baking powder method? enlighten me please.
thanks