dear readers,
as most of you I did make and paint models when I was a little brat. I have painted the last 17 years tons of games workshop armies as a so called semi proffesional painter, so I painted lot's of armies and also built lots of dioramas and all..
But....
here is the problem , I really am into WW II modelling again and really bought tons of kits of infantry and armor. The problem is that I was never content with my endresults though everyone really liked my work and I have won lot's of prices at painting competitions as well, but I myself never really like my work. So I decided to sell all of my paint and bought tons of new paint, thus I spend a forune on the modelmaster paint from italeri, thinner based paints so to speak. Since then a lot of things went wrong and therefore I really need some or tons of help from you guys. I have many questions, I will post them in this forum but also on others such as armor and diorama all in seperate posts so to speak. Here we go:
-washes....after I primed the models with white primer, I applied the basecoat, later I wanted to do a wash with thinner thinned colour all seemes to go well but when I reached the fifth model and looked at the first I saw to my horror that the thinner wash ate away the base coat!I screamed bloody mayhem and cleaned them up as fast as I could, I got dead scared and have no clue what to do now, anyone?
-earthworks...someone suggested me that for ground works I should try dried out coffee residu, how do you apply this?it seems to me one would use whiye glue, but do I need a sanded and dark brown painted base for this first?
-Snow..how does one apply snow, I bought lot's of chalk, do I apply this with white glue or could I use white textured paint and then throw on the white chalk?
-static water...I tried to use this stuff some times before and used this 2 component pouring resin , it drove me berserk, since it gets warm as hell and also expands a lot thus it tore up the snadbanks I amde, when do you apply this water, is it the first thing you apply on the base and do you build the rest of the base around it? I really dont understand how this stuff works for it tends to ruin beautifull dioramams I made in the past, anyone?
-armorcamo...is it possible to paint armor without an airbrush?, can one apply camopaints on armour without airbrush or is this impossible?and how does one apply wintercamo on german tanks, how do filters work;I understood one applies several washes?
-skinworks...yes I know this has been asked a trillion times, but are oils really the best and if so what oilcolours do I need then?
-decals...how does one finish decals, it has happened to me sometimes that when the decals were applied and I added a protective layer with varnish the whole decal warped under it!!!very frustrating, and how must one finish a decal so that it appears more genuine on it, so that it does not look applied but really painted on the vehicle?anyone?
-desert diorama and colours...I want to make an excellent desert diorama but what colours should I use for the clothing on the afrika corps and desert rats, and what colour for their skin since they should be tanned I reckon, whwre can I find pictures of buildings/ruins in the desert..anyone?
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
newbee going insane!!!!!!!!please help me?
invictis
Member Since: May 28, 2003
entire network: 49 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 12:48 AM UTC
Sabot
Member Since: December 18, 2001
entire network: 12,596 Posts
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entire network: 12,596 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,557 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 01:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
-armorcamo...is it possible to paint armor without an airbrush?, can one apply camopaints on armour without airbrush or is this impossible?and how does one apply wintercamo on german tanks, how do filters work;I understood one applies several washes?
Sure, I do it all the time. Most armor camouflage was not painted using spray guns. It was painted by hand. Some of the newer equipment are spray painted in schemes like the NATO 3-color, but a lot of equipment from WW2 and also 1970s and 1980s era US equipment was camouflaged painted by soldiers with brushes like you'd use to paint your house.
Quoted Text
-washes....after I primed the models with white primer, I applied the basecoat, later I wanted to do a wash with thinner thinned colour all seemes to go well but when I reached the fifth model and looked at the first I saw to my horror that the thinner wash ate away the base coat!I screamed bloody mayhem and cleaned them up as fast as I could, I got dead scared and have no clue what to do now, anyone?
Seems like you did not allow the paint to fully cure. In the future, allow ample time for the paint to cure before putting a wash on it. Also try using a different type of paint for the wash. For example, if you painted the kit in enamels, try washing it with acrylic paints. For your ruined paint jobs, if you can't repair the damage with a second base coating, strip the paint off using oven cleaner. I use fume free Easy Off and spray the model with it when it is in a big zip lock bag and let it sit overnight. Use a toothbrush to work off the old paint and start again.
BTW, you are not endearing yourself to the forum by continuing to cross post messages asking the exact same questions that are contained in this post. Some people view this as "rank hunting" and it and cross posting are considered bad form.
Welcome to the site, hope we can be of help to you.
Easy_Co
Member Since: September 11, 2002
entire network: 1,933 Posts
KitMaker Network: 814 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 01:22 AM UTC
Hi Invictus For the Earth work I use pollyfilla into that I put dried coffee grounds some sand the contents of my electric razor then a good dollop of earth coloured paint add waterand mix it all together works everytime for me,when its dry ijust touch up any bare patches or add my undergrowth. hope this helps. 
AJLaFleche
Member Since: May 05, 2002
entire network: 8,074 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,574 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 02:02 AM UTC
Quoted Text
here is the problem , I really am into WW II modelling again and really bought tons of kits of infantry and armor. The problem is that I was never content with my endresults though everyone really liked my work and I have won lot's of prices at painting competitions as well, but I myself never really like my work.
We are always our own harshest critics, maybe because we know where we took shortcuts. LOL Listen to the judges, they know what they're doing and if you were getting awards, you were doing things right.
Quoted Text
-washes....after I primed the models with white primer, I applied the basecoat, later I wanted to do a wash with thinner thinned colour all seemes to go well but when I reached the fifth model and looked at the first I saw to my horror that the thinner wash ate away the base coat!I screamed bloody mayhem and cleaned them up as fast as I could, I got dead scared and have no clue what to do now, anyone?
I've used thinner based washes for years over unsealed thinner based paints on armor. The trick is to apply the wash where you want a shadow and not all over expecting to wipe off the excess. Dab some wash in panel lines, along sharp edges and raised detail. Let capilary action draw it out. If you plan on applying a heavy wash over the whole model, use an acrylic clear coat.
Quoted Text
-earthworks...someone suggested me that for ground works I should try dried out coffee residu, how do you apply this?it seems to me one would use whiye glue, but do I need a sanded and dark brown painted base for this first?
I use a variety of Woodland Scenics railroad and Hudson & Allen products. Also I used pea stone for rocks and usualy paint them as desired. I'd stay away from kitchen products. They are not treated to keep away decompposition over time. I use Celluclay as a base. I mix this with water, white glue and brown acrylic paint before applying it to the base. I drill holes in the base to give the Celluclay more surface to bite. If I'm buiding up the base, such as hill or earthworks, I use packing styrofoam (the stuff that is used in packing stereo/computer equipment) for an armature, keeping a relatively thin layer of Celulclay.
Quoted Text
-static water...I tried to use this stuff some times before and used this 2 component pouring resin , it drove me berserk, since it gets warm as hell and also expands a lot thus it tore up the snadbanks I amde, when do you apply this water, is it the first thing you apply on the base and do you build the rest of the base around it? I really dont understand how this stuff works for it tends to ruin beautifull dioramams I made in the past, anyone?
I've used resin from a model railroad store. I think if you're doing a large amount, the trick is to apply the resin in layers, rather than all at once.
Quoted Text
-armorcamo...is it possible to paint armor without an airbrush?, can one apply camopaints on armour without airbrush or is this impossible?and how does one apply wintercamo on german tanks, how do filters work;I understood one applies several washes?
Depends. Some camo patterns have feathered edges which are very hard to replicate with brushes. Using spray cans and slightly raised masks can get you close. Some patterns, especially WWII German, can have hard edges, since these were field applied with whatever was at hand. German winter whitewash was applied by spray, brush, mop, broom, or simpply by throwing buckets of whitewash on the vehicle, according to what I've read. It was water based, so would wear off rather quicky. Filters are very thin washes of paint to blend in colors.
Quoted Text
-skinworks...yes I know this has been asked a trillion times, but are oils really the best and if so what oilcolours do I need then?
Oils are the best for fleash tones. For afficionadoes of oils. Others love and are successful with acrylics. I use primarily a combination of white and burnt sienna for most flesh tones with the occasional van dyke brown deepest shadows.
Quoted Text
-decals...how does one finish decals, it has happened to me sometimes that when the decals were applied and I added a protective layer with varnish the whole decal warped under it!!!very frustrating, and how must one finish a decal so that it appears more genuine on it, so that it does not look applied but really painted on the vehicle?anyone?
After the base colors have been applied but not weathered or washed, apply a coat of clear gloss. Make sure it's good and shiny. Trim away as much of the carrier film as possible and practicle. I put a bit of SuperScale setting solution where the decal is going to go then apply the decal. Before it settles down, I apply a bit more and let the decal dry completely, at least overnight. At his point you may choose to apply another sealing coat. Apply washes and weather your vehicle. Apply a final flat coat to the vehicle. The decals should look like they were painted on and got worn and dirtied along with the restof the vehicle. The sealing clear coats will prevent the decals from lifting up.
I hope this helps.
didiumus
Member Since: March 18, 2003
entire network: 564 Posts
KitMaker Network: 138 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 02:12 AM UTC
With regards to the washes, coat your model with a protective clear coat that is not soluble by the medium you are using to do the wash. A water or acrylic based clear coat left to adequately dry will help protect a model from a tupernoid/oil wash. NEVER use enamel thinned washes on enamel paints, etc...
Good luck,
Scott
Good luck,
Scott
Delbert
#073
Member Since: October 05, 2002
entire network: 2,659 Posts
KitMaker Network: 865 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 02:27 AM UTC
here is a tip on washs with model master enamal paint...
wait for your basecoat to be very dry... then you can apply a clearcoat.
then when making your wash.. do NOT use the testors model master enamal thinner..
Use testors brush cleaner....... it is a milder form of the thinner and you can use it to make washs. and it doesn't attack the prev coats of paint like a wash made with straight thinner would.
I've used this for several washs for equipment bags and stuff and havn't had a prob with it attacking the paint.. but use on a test peice first so you will know what to expect. as wash ratio's differ.
wait for your basecoat to be very dry... then you can apply a clearcoat.
then when making your wash.. do NOT use the testors model master enamal thinner..
Use testors brush cleaner....... it is a milder form of the thinner and you can use it to make washs. and it doesn't attack the prev coats of paint like a wash made with straight thinner would.
I've used this for several washs for equipment bags and stuff and havn't had a prob with it attacking the paint.. but use on a test peice first so you will know what to expect. as wash ratio's differ.
invictis
Member Since: May 28, 2003
entire network: 49 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 02:31 AM UTC
wow, I am so impressed, thank all you people for your excellent advice on the subjects, sorry for posting the questions such a many times as different posts I will remove them immediately, sorry for that.
Oncemore thank you so much for your help, it really made things much more clearer; at least now I can go back to my working bench and get going with those models, thank you so much!!!!!
Oncemore thank you so much for your help, it really made things much more clearer; at least now I can go back to my working bench and get going with those models, thank you so much!!!!!
Oberst
Member Since: June 26, 2002
entire network: 851 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 02:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text-armorcamo...is it possible to paint armor without an airbrush?, can one apply camopaints on armour without airbrush or is this impossible?and how does one apply wintercamo on german tanks, how do filters work;I understood one applies several washes?
Sure, I do it all the time. Most armor camouflage was not painted using spray guns. It was painted by hand. Some of the newer equipment are spray painted in schemes like the NATO 3-color, but a lot of equipment from WW2 and also 1970s and 1980s era US equipment was camouflaged painted by soldiers with brushes like you'd use to paint your house.
This is true but as we are modelling in 1:35 scale usually, hand brushing is much more inaccurate than spraying. A 1:1 brush mark looks nothing like a 1:35 one. I suggest that is you do not have an airbrush, use masking to paint camo. For example, if you want a green camo pattern over a dark yellow one, paint the entire model green, then mask off the parts that you would like to remain green, then paint the entire model with a can of dark yellow. Remove the masks and VOILA, you have a nice, sprayed camo scheme.
Andrew
Roadkill
Member Since: June 09, 2002
entire network: 2,029 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 03:00 AM UTC
Invictis,
I use Zippo fuel tho make my wash (+ oilpaint)
on my site there is a article, the site is down (don't ask) but here is a direct link to the article
http://users.pandora.be/ronny.noben/website/tips/zippo/zippo.htm
I use Zippo fuel tho make my wash (+ oilpaint)
on my site there is a article, the site is down (don't ask) but here is a direct link to the article
http://users.pandora.be/ronny.noben/website/tips/zippo/zippo.htm
slodder
Member Since: February 22, 2002
entire network: 11,718 Posts
KitMaker Network: 2,584 Posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 28, 2003 - 01:10 PM UTC
Great stuff guys!!!
A couple of general pointers
1. Go read all the features. There are answers to washes, snow, buildings, water, bases, bricks, etc etc.
2. Look through the gallery's - there are soooo many great references and inspirations. I routinely go and see what's new. I can honestly say I have looked at every album in there, great stuff.
3. Do some searches in the forums and you'll be surprised at how much information 2500 users can produce.
4. Just ask. The moderators are great here, they will move or ask to move a post if it doesn't appear to be in the most appropriate place.
A couple of general pointers
1. Go read all the features. There are answers to washes, snow, buildings, water, bases, bricks, etc etc.
2. Look through the gallery's - there are soooo many great references and inspirations. I routinely go and see what's new. I can honestly say I have looked at every album in there, great stuff.
3. Do some searches in the forums and you'll be surprised at how much information 2500 users can produce.
4. Just ask. The moderators are great here, they will move or ask to move a post if it doesn't appear to be in the most appropriate place.
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