1⁄35How To Rust Modern Armour Plating
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Step four
When the 30 minutes are up, remove the metal and place it on it’s side to dry so that the rusting process can begin. Now you will have to help the process along by spraying water in between drying intervals. This way the rust will build up layers as the effect gets stronger. It takes awhile but the results are worth it. You can also lay the metal piece flat and spray a couple of squirts of water to get the rust build-up to settle in one area. Just spray and let it dry. Remember! Spray in intervals. This way the first layer will have time to develop and settle. The pictures show the results between a 5-10mins interval of spraying, after it was removed from the bowl 3 hours ago. You’ll notice that as long as you leave the metal submerged in the liquid, the metal will remain in its original state and therefore will not rust. If you want more rust effect just spray some water on it. You can see how long it takes the plate to reach a more desirable effect than normal. The idea is to build the rust up in layers.Step five
When the metal has rusted and you are satisfied with the look then it is time for a bit of weathering. Where the metal had extremely settled I’d take a sharp knife or blade and scrape away at some of the rust at various areas of the metal. Again, this method is only required if the rust has settled hard on the metal plate. Otherwise this method is not required. Usually this is when the plate has been left sitting for days after been taken from the bowl and had been sprayed between intervals; which by then, the rust had hardened. Personally, I like the plates fairly rusty so to get different shades of the rust at different levels. By scraping away at certain areas around the metal plate I get different shades of colouration that gives me a livelier look than it being just one plain shade. Of course this is totally up to you as everyone has a preference and therefore I will leave it up to you to decide the outcome of the end results.Step six
This last procedure is not a must but does blend everything in with the rest of the model. I use three shades of powder pigments; black, grey and burnt umber. Brushing on a little of each tends to work for me. It may not work for you; again, it’s a preference thing. I say use what you are comfortable with to get the job done. In the end it’s your model and you must be the one to decide if it works and looks right in your eyes.Comments
Hmmm... Very simple and effectivemethod...I think I can use this on something.... Bunker doors maube?
Goood article...never would have though of actually rusting it....
MAR 16, 2006 - 09:16 PM
Dear Charles
Thanks for the article
very nice and usefull technic
i will check this also in the lab with stronger acid :-) :-) :-)
Chemistry rules
Cheers
Seb
MAR 17, 2006 - 02:05 AM
Brilliantly simple method that I've not seen before.
I'm a figure modeller, but will find a use for this somewhere, somehow.
Thanks for sharing.
Adrian Hopwood
MAR 17, 2006 - 06:55 PM
The same Idea can be used to turn Steel wool into a Rust powder "pigment
MAR 17, 2006 - 09:25 PM
charles I've seen your technique posted around and I must say the more I see it the more I want to try it! Great job bro!!!
MAR 21, 2006 - 02:19 AM
Question : what is the best supply for metal plates?
Any chance I can recycle something from the house?
MAR 21, 2006 - 02:24 AM
Well, if it is the right thickness and not rust protected than I think it should work. It's really the thickness that you have to find. Anything thicker than 0.3 will be a little difficult to cut to the desired pattern. I say check out the hardware store, they should have a good supply.
MAR 21, 2006 - 03:31 AM
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