That is the question.
Would like to know what is your preferred method of removing spure gates off the parts. I have noticed that more often than not, modellers use the cutting / slicing method of trimming the spure stub off the parts. I nver had good experiences using this method, usually slicing too deep.
One method I picked up in regards of sanding is masking. You heard right, masking. On the part with the spure stub, I will cut 2 small pieces of Tamiya masking tape and place it on both sides right next to the spure stub. This will eliminate the accidental slip of sanding stick marring the surface, but, you can also sand away the stub real nice without ever touching the sourrounding plastic. Sand as much wit the sanding stick as the tape will let you go. Placing masking tape right next to the stub will allow you to sand down the nub to almost invisibible proportions. Once this is done, place 2 new tape pieces a little further away from the nub and sand again. This this method I have learned to almost perfectly remove the spure nub without ever a scratch to the plastic sourrounding it.

Hope someone will find this useful.

~Martin

I use side-cutters with a flush cutting edge (the type used for
electronics work) and then a needle file to remove the last
remnants of the stub.
The advantage with the side-cutter against the knife is that
the consumption of scalpel blades is practically zero and the
cutting force is applied from both sides so there is no pressure
to bend/rip/crush the part.
The advantage with the needle file over the sanding stick / sandpaper
is that the needle file is nearly rigid and doesn't dig into the surrounding
areas like a "soft" sanding stick sometimes does.

The needle files also come in different shapes so they can be used
to clean up the rest of the part as well. It isn't just the stub left by the
attachment point to the sprues but angles that should be 90-degrees
are often something else to allow for proper release angles from the steel molds. Sometimes there is also flash to take care of.
/ Robin

I use side cutters first then sand carefully to the part.

I have heard of people using masking agents to help avoid over cutting or deep sanding.

Sharp side cutters are the best, and squezze slowely when cutting seems to work the best for me.

I preffer not to use side cutters to cut too close as it will leave a cutting scar on the plastic parts which I usually try to avoid.
How do you guys remove the remaining stub without damagin the parts?

~Martin

Sharp and good quality side cutters usually don't leave a scar,
it depends on how you cut.
If it is very tight between the rounded end of the sprue and the
actual part I include a bit of sprue in the cut and then snip it away
in small bits. It all depends on whether the cutting edges of the
cutter will get a grip before the end of the sprue pushes up against
the rest of the jaws of the cutter.

Note that the side cutter must have the cutting edges flush with the
surface of the jaws. Dang I need an image here,
Something like this:
http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=1864.htm
/ Robin

Cleaning them with mini needle files works best for me. It's much cleaner than using sand paper.

Cut, then file or scrape.

Cut with nippers or my knife then eitherfile the nub or scrape it flush with my Exacto. I don't kow that I've sanded a nub off in 20 years. Even without oversanding, I find that the sanded texture is too rough and needs a final file or scrape to get it smooth.

I could use 600 grit for a smoother sanded finish, but I want to finishin my lifetime. Scraping is dead smooth, is much quicker and is helps remove any remaining moulding draft on larger faces.

Paul

Xuron Micro shear flush cutters: