I finally got back to building my DMLPzr 1A and notice that over the last 3 months I have gotten a bit sloppy with my glue. Any tips on getting rid ofcleaning up excess glue?
Thanks in advance
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How to remove excess glue?
thedutchie

Member Since: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 06:35 PM UTC
Grumpyoldman

Member Since: October 17, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 08:47 PM UTC
Brian, nice to hear you building again.
What type of glue?
What type of glue?
thedutchie

Member Since: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:03 PM UTC
Dave:
Glad to be back. The Xbox 360 got abit addictive.
I am using the testors model cement which is in the tube.
Glad to be back. The Xbox 360 got abit addictive.
I am using the testors model cement which is in the tube.Grumpyoldman

Member Since: October 17, 2003
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:09 PM UTC
Well, first off LET IT DRY COMPLETELY!
I usually remove any excess plastic cement simply by either sanding if possible, or gentle scraping with an exacto blade. I have various sizes and shapes besides the standard #11 that come in real handy for scraping.
You probably will need to do a little filler and sanding depending on how much damage the cement did eating into the plastic.
Switch to liquid cement Brian. Easier to use, and safer too! I'd send you a bottle of my favorite- Tamyia extra thin, but I don't know if it would make it across the border, or we being charge with smuggling dangerous chemicals. :-)
I usually remove any excess plastic cement simply by either sanding if possible, or gentle scraping with an exacto blade. I have various sizes and shapes besides the standard #11 that come in real handy for scraping.
You probably will need to do a little filler and sanding depending on how much damage the cement did eating into the plastic.
Switch to liquid cement Brian. Easier to use, and safer too! I'd send you a bottle of my favorite- Tamyia extra thin, but I don't know if it would make it across the border, or we being charge with smuggling dangerous chemicals. :-)
slodder

Member Since: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 09:45 PM UTC
Yupper - Dave's got it right on the money (as usual). I use the tube glue for some applications and that's about your only option. Definitely let it dry 100% or you'll create more of a problem.
thedutchie

Member Since: February 01, 2005
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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 10:06 PM UTC
Thanks for the tip guys
Halfyank

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Posted: Sunday, March 04, 2007 - 10:16 PM UTC
Here is another tip. Three little letters that spell out why I love making tanks. M.U.D! Mud can hide so many sins.
HawkeyeV

Member Since: September 20, 2006
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Posted: Monday, March 05, 2007 - 07:19 PM UTC
Maybe it is time to step away from 'glue' and move onto solvent type. C;ean up is much easier and the parts weld together rather than just being 'stuck' together. In time tube glues will lose their bond.
USArmy2534

Member Since: January 28, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 - 02:16 AM UTC
I agree with the solvent. I use Tenax, but there are others. The left over - if you use too much - looks like a small glossy watermark that is just painted over. I also use a touch-n-flow needle to apply it, because very little of it is actually needed to put a piece down (though this depends on size of the piece - most take a drop or less).
Jeff
Jeff
HawkeyeV

Member Since: September 20, 2006
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Posted: Tuesday, March 06, 2007 - 06:26 AM UTC
When you get a solvent 'spill' let it dry totally, then use a polishing stick to buff it away. If it etched deep you can touch it up with a spot of putty or glazing compound. I use 3M Blue. Again you would use a polishing stick to feather it out, once painted it shouldn't show.
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