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Scratchbuilders!: Armor/AFV
This is a group for armor scratchbuilding questions, topics and projects.
Hosted by Mike Kirchoff
Making dashboard dials
Hightower
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Ontario, Canada
Member Since: October 12, 2006
entire network: 66 Posts
KitMaker Network: 0 Posts
Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 08:06 PM UTC
Hi again, have another question but want to comment first on the link to the halftrack site. Way cool, I have one on the bench right now and this site will help a great deal.
O.K. Is there a way to create dials and guages in 1/35 from scratch ? I have an archer transfer set but they don't turn out that well. Could be my low skill level. Any tips or pics would be great.
Again, great site and a ton of knowledge out there keep up the great site.
Cheers eh.
seb43
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Paris, France
Member Since: August 30, 2005
entire network: 2,315 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 08:10 PM UTC
Dear All
I am also interested to know how to make gauges and other buttons and switchs for a dashboard ??
Cheers
Seb

NormSon
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North Carolina, United States
Member Since: December 17, 2006
entire network: 181 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 09:47 PM UTC
I'm involved with Archer, and I'd like to help you out with the gauges. They are the easiest way to put accurate faces on a dash, but there are some "tricks" that might help.
1. I paint the molded dials the color of the faces first, either white or black. This helps if you don't get the dial transfer exactly centered in the molded dial.
2. Apply the transfers to the "wet media" from Archer. Trim them apart, so you are working with one at a time.
3. Wet the gauge you are going to apply, apply a small drop of water in the dial face, and slide the transfer into the dial on the dash. I like to use a tooth pick, a #11 Xacto knife, or a scribe to center and rotate the transfer.
4. When the transfer is where you want it, lightly press the water out from under the transfer. I like to use a toothpick for this step. Please note that when you have done this, the transfer will no longer be movable.
5. Let the dash dry thoroughly.
6. I like to seal the entire dash with acrylic flat, then, when the flat is dry, I apply a drop of clear to each dial. I like to use Future, but epoxy also works quite well. I sometimes add two or three applications of clear to the dial face, to give it some depth and let the face flow out smooth.
I hope this isn't too long, and I hope it helps you use the Archer gauges with better results. You might check the web site for more application information. Please contact Woody if you have questions or problems; we want you to enjoy our product and it to meet your expectations.
Norm Samuelson
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Member Since: January 20, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, January 23, 2007 - 10:13 PM UTC

Quoted Text

O.K. Is there a way to create dials and guages in 1/35 from scratch ?
Cheers eh.



Never used the Archer ones, but if doing from scratch this is what I do:
Get PE bezels from an a larger scale aircraft set, or more cheaply, cut rings from brass tubing, and sand it on wet/dry paper until it's the desired thinness. Glue in place. Paint inside the desired color.

Cut a needle from .005 styrene, glue in place. Using white/black decal paper, cut the thinnest line possible, and chop it into legnths. Use these for your different positions around the guage. You could paint them on or use real decals of guages as well. Painting isn't quite as neat though.Flood the whole thing with clear coat.

For switches, thinnned pieces of stretched sprue work well. For indicator lights, I like to drill a small (#78 or so) hole, insert a piece of colored stretched sprue (amber or red, from auto kits) and then hold a hot extinguished matchhead near it. It will mushroom up making a nice shape. Alternately (only done this a few times) use fiber optics in the holes and actually have them light up. Requires boxing off a light proof section for your grain of wheat bulbs. They're available through Walther's.
Czechman
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North Carolina, United States
Member Since: January 24, 2007
entire network: 2 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, January 24, 2007 - 07:26 AM UTC
Hey Sterling,

Norm has given you some good advice. We have illustrated instructions on our website that explain the use of the wet media paper HERE

You didn't say which kit you are building but this is the kind of results you can expect if you're patient:

It's just like anything else in modeling... after you do it a couple times it becomes much easier. And remember that everything we sell is unconditionally guaranteed so if you're not happy we'll refund your money or send another set... it's your choice.

If you have any other questions, please don't hesitae to e-mail me directly at [email protected]

Woody Vondracek
Archer Fine Transfers
retiredyank
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Arkansas, United States
Member Since: June 29, 2009
entire network: 11,610 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, September 24, 2009 - 12:42 PM UTC
I know I'm a couple of years too late, but here is what I do. Use a diamond file to remove the plastic inside of the dials. You should be able to find some photos or pictures of the types of dials you will need. Reduce or enlarge the photos/pictures till they are the scale you need. Print them off and use white glue to stick them where the holes are. Instant scale gauge.
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