Ok, last two weeks we got on board and went over kit selection and research. Planning planning planning. You can’t ask to many questions when planning or researching.

Now that we know what we are doing the next step is to dig into the tool box ready the tools and get the kit ready.
This is going to be an Out of the Box build (that’s all that’s necessary). Out of the Box is abbreviated OOTB or OTB (rarer but sometimes seen). For those who don’t know this can affect how a kit/project is judged at certain events. The scope of that conversation is outside this thread. Beginners just know that it’s ok to build OOTB and take it to a show, just make sure you document it and see if there is judging for it.

All right as for tools there are a few basics that everyone needs. I remember growing up and having the classic red Swiss Army knife and feeling good. It had a blade, scissors, and tweezers. That and tube of glue were what I started with. My kits were nothing more than an afternoon of fun. For a basic good all around build I would recommend the following:



1- 1 or 2 solid handled hobby knives. I prefer #11 Exacto blades. These blades are right triangles that come to a very small point. They are great for getting into tight places and big enough to do some major cutting. I would recommend two or more handles loaded with blades of varying use/load. I use the newest blades for fine detail work when I need a really really sharp precise cut. Then I have a couple of older blades for general purpose cutting an even an older blade with the tip knocked off. These older ones are great for styrene scoring and snapping (I’ll explain that trick later).

2 - You will need at least One kind of glue. The type of glue depends on the type of kit you are building. Here are the minimums with what I consider the strongest glue for the job. This is not the ‘be all end all list’. This list answers the question – what glue will absolutely glue my kit. Feel free to talk about it.
Injected Plastic – Testors tube glue
Resin – Two part epoxy
Plaster – white glue (typically called PVA)
White Metal – Two part epoxy

3 - Next thing is some type of sanding devise. I prefer both sandpaper and files. You only really need sand paper. If you are absolutely strapped for cash and need to buy one ‘grit’ then go with a finer grit knowing you’ll need to work extra long on larger areas. You can also use the sharp blade to shave down the area to reduce the amount of sanding.
I use sandpaper glued to coffee stir sticks more than straight paper. More on this later.
I use files for small areas where it’s important for the sander to be very ridged.

4 – Snips/Sidecutters/cutters. There are great tools. They help in so many ways. The first and foremost way is to remove parts from sprues. Secondarily they help make and keep the sanding sticks sharp.

5 – Scribe or Probe or Dental tool of some sort. These are great to have as a general tool as long as one end is a blade and the other is more of a pick. They help with reaming fit holes. They help with gluing, puttying, working pieces together.

6 – Tweezers. Can’t live without’em. They hold all the small stuff and help assembly and paint. Gotta have at least one set.

7 – Clamps or holders of some type – I use small electronic clamps found at a store like Radio shack (any DIY store should have them too). Rubber bands and masking tape are good alternatives.

8 – A pen – you have to document your build.

Here is a list. Here is a link to another great feature on a sister sub site. Please read it.

Begining Tools

This week will work this way. I will actively talk about tools and kit prep this week and expect at least two posts from everyone on the subject(s). The start off topic is tools. I will then talk about getting the kit ready for de-spruing or resin blocking etc.

So to start the week read the feature I mentioned and my comments. The post any ‘must have tools’ in your [auto-censored]nal and be ready for more prep and ready discussions through the week.

I would have to add some sort of magnifier, and an adjustable light. For christmas I got an adjustable desk lamp with built in magnifying glass. It even has a cover over the lense for when its not in use. A cheap find at Staples business store.
Working with basically any scale, there are bound to be small peices on most kits, especially if you work with figures. A magnifying glass can really help out with assembly.
Also, an adjustable light can really help. I know where I sit, I usually thow a bit of shadow as my desk is against the wall, with a light behind me. Getting rid of that shadow with an adjustable light lets me see what I need to, and helps me fit the peices correctly, and helps locate small peices that have shifted on my painting tray.

I'll post again sometime later this week with my tool kit for modelling.

Well I'm up to 2 projects
project one apply PE parts to an M4A4 sherman and use HONEYCUT's simple periscope guard SBS try to do that with out chucking the M4A4 at the wall
the other is the card model.

card model:
helping hands with magnifier
my trusty box cutter
white glue
soda ( to keep me unthirsty)
dry ceral ( beast needs food)

PE and periscope guard:
homemade PE bender
side cutters
needlenose pliers
superglue

Just to add to Scott has listed above, I find that for cutting parts from the sprue or casting blocks in the case of resin or even PE from the tree, you can't beat a chisel shaped blade. You'll normally get these for the bigger, multi-purpose knife handle.
I also find that a #2 blade is pretty useful when you need to trim larger pieces or need more stability with the blade.

Scott mentions needle files. From a figure modeller's point of view, needle files are essential - an absolute must have.

Something I've found quite useful are a pair of riffler files I have. They basically look like those hook-like dentist tools but are abrasive like files. Very useful for getting into those hard-to-reach places for filing.

With regards to glues and adhesives, Scott pretty much covers them all. I'd like to add Cyno-Acrylite, also known as CA glue, Cyno or super-glue. You get it in various consistencies, all of which have different setting times. For gluing metal and resin bits CA glue is essential, as you are not always able to wait to epoxy glue to set properly.

Regarding epoxy, note that you get at least 2 types. Putty and glue. Both of which have their own uses. Epoxy glue is great for putting kits/figures together when you need a stronger bond or the parts will be bearing some sort of load. It's also the best way to glue metal parts together. Epoxy putty is great as a filler as well as for making groundwork.
Also bear in mind with epoxy (both putty and glue) you get different set times. I prefer to work with epoxies that have a 5-15 minute setting time, purely because I like to get on with the job.

Other things that I always have handy when busy with figures are toothpicks and paperclips. Both of which I use to handle the figure when painting. I flatten the tip of the toothtip lengthwise (I hope that makes sense) and cyno smaller and light (ITO weight) pieces to the toothpicks. With bigger and heavier figures I clip sections from the paperclips, drill a hole into, for example the foot, and cyno the paperclip in. The paperclip serves a dual purpose. The first is that I will use it to stand the figure durng the paing process. The second is it will be used later when securing the figure to the base.

You'll note I mentioned I drill holes. I do this using a pin vice. A pin vice is basically a small hand-held drill. I stand corrected but mine can take drill bits with sizes between 0.8mm and 1.5mm. Instead of a pin-vice you could also use an Archamedies (sp?) screw.

Like Kevin, I'll also be supplimenting my post with the exact tools I'll be using - although this may vary as I trundle along

Model on dudes and dudettes.

Rudi

I use big nail clippers to cut parts from the sprue; It works just perfect to me. The advantage is that the cutting edge is slightly bend.

This is perfect for cutting round pieces (of which there are many on a plane) from the sprue.

Good call on Maganifers.

What do you guys prefer? Head worn, lamp based, or as Luke mentioned, 3rd hand type.
I've always used a lamp based one, but am really intrigued with the total mobility of head worn types. Lamp based keeps me close to one spot at the bench. Head kinds would give me freedom to move anywhere. Thoughts...

Rudi, do the rifflers get fine enough for you? I've seen some, but they look to coarse. Have you experimented with sanding string? Basically its coarse dental floss, I've seen it a few times at DIY stores, never picked it up.

For beginners I would say a pin vice could be substitued with a new #11 blade for some holes. Then a cheap drill set from a DIY could be mounted in the hobby knife handle.

Do any of you guys put drill bits in a rotary tool and use it there? I'll share on this later.

Luke the scope guard can be done with box pliers too. I've got a set and use them all the time with PE. As Honeycut shows it can be done with just about any plier as long as you're careful.

More later...

I'm talking about glueing it down

I prefer a lamp-based magnifier, as I really only need it for the REALLY tiny parts. Sometimes I can even handle individual grenades without anything. I think for me, a headbased system would just get in the way.

Also, I may be working on say a turret and hull at the same time. So I only need magnification for one particular part. Then its simple to push the magnifier away, and pick up the other half of the model.

Hi Scott,

I've got 2 riffler files, so all together 4 grades of courseness. I find they are great, but naturally don't substitute a good rubdown with fine sandpaper after the major filing and filling is done. For anyone interested in tools like these, I had quite a hard time finding them (and they weren't cheap) but I eventually found them in a watch and jewelry repair supplt store - an interesting place for modellers :-)

Never heard of sanding floss but will keep an eye out for it. It's always worth the effort to try new things

Regarding the magnifier, I've only use 2 types: the head-set; and the 3rd hand type. I find the 3rd hand cumbersome to work with, and the magnification strength never just right. The head-set is ok to work with. I've got the type with 4 different strength lenses, with 2 slots in the visor, so I tend to put 2 lenses in from time to time, so I can quickly swap between the 2 or even use both together at the same time. The lamp magnifier is on my wish-list, but a decent one is fairly pricey.

Just another thing I thought of this morning... Out of the box is also abbreviated as OOB, well at least in SA anyway... so beginners take note

Rudi

This you MUST read. This ties in last weeks convesation and touches on TONS of concepts ideas and techniques we All can benefit from

Archangel

Here are a couple of videos that all modelers especially newer ones can benefit from

Getting Started with Tools - 1



Getting Started - 2

Check them out. I am working on doing video features too, so any comments will be taken into consideration.

Here is another link to a simple short article on tools.

How to buy tools

Well, I promised my tools so here they are. First up, is my desktop lamp and magnifier all in one (less than $30 CDN at a Staples business store, for anyone looking for a decent one).


Next up, another magnifier, this one with a flexible neck. I don't use it as much, but it is sometimes very useful, just because the neck is so flexible you can bend it any way you want to.


Next, and very useful, a cheap hobby knife set from Canadian Tire that my dad picked up for me.



This one comes numbered for you enjoyment.
1 - Brushes, simple. Top one is for figures and smaller detail, the bottom one saves me time doing basecoats on larger peices of armour.
2 - Trusty scissors with a slight bend to help me get between the peice and the sprue.
3 - Tweezers and needlenose pliers. I find the pliers better for larger, stronger peices, or when I need to keep my hands farther away.
4 - Testors tube glue. All I have needed so far, so I have been reluctant to get anything else.
5 - My favorite pair of pliers. The PERFECT size to open one of those little bottles of Testors enamel paint.
6 - I almost never actually use the magnifying glass on this. Mostly I use it to hold peices while paint dries, such as rifles or figure limbs.
7 - Useful for snipping larger peices off the sprue, or for those nasty peices that the scissors just dont want to cut through.
8 - I have had this knife for years, and have had to resharpen it about 3 times so far. I use it to trim excess on parts im going to use before sanding, and to make rough marks on any peices I need to actually cut with a hobby knife. Its become a tool I use more out of tradition than actual usefulness most of the time.

I'm going to come clean and ask a question too.
I have a big knife set similar to Kevin's. I have been sitting there at my bench staring at all those blades asking myself "what do I do with all those blades?" Then I inserted various blades in my the handle and just tried them at various tasks (some good - some bad).

I use a #11 about 90% of the time.

Any others out there try that?

Although I probably use the #11 90% of the time, I like using the chisel blade for removing bits from the sprue. (I don't have the box set like you guys) 2 blades I would like to buy are the curved blades. I hear they're great for cleaning up figures.

I JUST got the set, so I haven't had time to use any yet, but I will be experimenting to see which I like the best. Probably on figures and armour, as if I have time, I may add a T-72 to this campaign in adition to my figure set. Just picked one up cheap, made my MiniHobbyModels. I'll jump back to the planning thread and post in with my particulars for the tank.

Kit Prep,
Ok, the kit is selected the tools are out, the research is done. Where do You start?

My prefered process is to first inspect the kit from the box. Then to wash the kit. Then read the instructions cover to cover with no intent of building (yet).
This changes slightly based on the media and type of kit.
Injected kits are easy. A bit of warm water and dish soap and the sprues get a bath. I completely rinse them and let them air dry. Be Very careful and inspect the sprues to make sure you won't loose any poorly connected or losely connected pieces.
Resin kits, I use a sieve or cauldron or vegtable washer devise. Resin parts can be small and easily sent down the drain. So I put them in a cauldron and gently wash them with a long rinsing in warm water. I let them air dry.
Plaster kits - now this is different! I very very carefully inspect these kits IN Box. I open the lid and check the packaging. I carefully remove the layers of packing materials. When I get to a layer of parts I check very carefully to see if there are any broken parts. If there are I carefully lift each little piece out and place them on a work mat like a puzzle. I try to 'reasemble' the parts to make the completed one piece part. I then take a soft haired dust brush and brush off any loose plaster material. I turn the pieces over to create the piece upside down. I then mark the parts with pencil marks to make reassembly easier. Simply mark a line or two across the broken seam and then you can easily match up the marks later.
No water here.
PE or metal kits are given a quick bath of dish soap and allowed to air dry.

I know Luke is working with paper - I wouldn't imagine that there are to many paper prep steps - yes/no?

I have never worked with Vynal so I can't address this other than saying I would wash it with dish soap.

Then - read the instructoins. At this read through look for things like decal applications, paint marks, special attention marks. Things that will make you stop and think, or stop and alter your process. When you find these thing I take a highlighter or pen and mark the instructions. If it's a 20 step kit by the time I actually get to step 18 I might forget.

What about you? What do you do differently what soaps do you use?

Not really any prep for paper. Except make sure you have every tool and piece of card ready.

I screwed up the antenae PE ring and lost the antanae part (which I'm not going to search through the carpet with my magnifying help hands again [wjich Johnston and I seem to have the same one IDK if he bough it at Harbor Freight like I did on a luthiery and modeling tool/storage search)

Luke, I don't know where it came from originally. I remember asking my dad if I could use it when I was a bit younger, and he just told me to keep it since he didn't use it.

As for my preparation steps, I always get my tools, put on a good movie or maybe a marathon of shows I like, and set everything around me as I like it for ease of accessing everything. I do always read through the instructions, to see what I have to do, and where I may have to make choices. I also look through my spare parts boxes, to see what I can add. Like if I find a spare crew figure for a tank, it may help me decide to leave a hatch open to put him in. I also decide where Im going to start before I get myself completely mixed up. Not a huge problem with armour, but with figures I have to do one at a time. If not, I mix up peices of gear and which limb goes to which body. Doing one at a time is just easier, and knowing which one Im going to start with is important.

After that, I just sit down and get to. Call me bad, but I don't do any washes

Temptation got me as well. I built the paper kit. But I have a new project. I'm going to make some 1/35 diorama details for MGU.
For example cheyennes shotglasses, safe, and tray. Except my tray will be both a rectangular tray with brownies in it and a round one with the shot glasses on it (MMMMMMMM BROWNIES). I will try to make some chairs and a desk or two from old floppy disk plastic. (who need those old mouse floppy disks when you dont have the mouse anymore )