Probably a question asked a million times before, but couldn't find it...
I've build a few models and never had any difficulties with it, but with the new DML M1A1AIM I got for christmass I'm looking at a few probs now... the detail is so fine and the parts so small that I'm a bit scared of just cutting them of with the knife...
How do you guys cut the parts of a sprue when the parts are so small and delicate?? without breaking them offcourse
TIA
Hosted by Jim Starkweather
how to get it of the sprue? DML m1a1AIM
Jurgen
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 04:45 PM UTC
Darson
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 05:04 PM UTC
Jurgen you need to get yourself a decent pair of side cutters from your LHS. They are not incredibly expensive but are worth their wait in gold when it comes to detaching any part (big or small) from a sprue.
Cheers
Cheers
Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 06:01 PM UTC
I agree with Darren, sprue cutters would be best. Ive got a pair of Xeron sprue cutters i have them for two years and they are brillant i dont know how i ever managed without them.
keenan
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 06:15 PM UTC
You might also try cutting off the section of sprue the part is on and then removing the actual part. Makes it easier to remove the small parts if you aren't wrestling with the entire sprue, just a small section...
Shaun
Shaun
slodder
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 07:14 PM UTC
So far all are very good suggestions and tips.
This is something I plan to cover this next week in ModelGeek University. But no time like the present.
Xacto has small razor saw blades that fit in a standard handle. They work nicely if you're Gentle. Slowly draw the blade back and let the weight of the blade scribe in a groove and then just repeat that until its off.
Plan you part removal carefully too. Look at the part and the number of sprue connections. Carefully test the flexibility and 'give' of the part vs. the sprue. You may want to cut the connection point that is the most delicate first. That way the sprue acts as a support to the rest of the part. Then you work your way around the remaining connections.
I usually try to leave a bit of the sprue on the part if posible. I know there will be cleanup to do. I use a new #11 (Yes a new one, the sharper the better) to do the cleanup, and go slow. This technique gives you a bit of 'room' to make a mistake. If the knife or saw or snips slip or hit the part and mar the part then you have a clean up and a fix job to do.
This is something I plan to cover this next week in ModelGeek University. But no time like the present.
Xacto has small razor saw blades that fit in a standard handle. They work nicely if you're Gentle. Slowly draw the blade back and let the weight of the blade scribe in a groove and then just repeat that until its off.
Plan you part removal carefully too. Look at the part and the number of sprue connections. Carefully test the flexibility and 'give' of the part vs. the sprue. You may want to cut the connection point that is the most delicate first. That way the sprue acts as a support to the rest of the part. Then you work your way around the remaining connections.
I usually try to leave a bit of the sprue on the part if posible. I know there will be cleanup to do. I use a new #11 (Yes a new one, the sharper the better) to do the cleanup, and go slow. This technique gives you a bit of 'room' to make a mistake. If the knife or saw or snips slip or hit the part and mar the part then you have a clean up and a fix job to do.
Jurgen
Limburg, Belgium
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 10:41 PM UTC
Quoted Text
side cutters from your LHS
Thanks all for answering! Do you have a link for me perhaps?
Kelley
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Posted: Sunday, January 07, 2007 - 11:16 PM UTC
I have some nice side cutters and they work well, but for those really tiny parts I use a set of sprue nippers I picked up from Micro-Mark. Here is a link:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82393
Cheers,
Mike
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82393
Cheers,
Mike
Jurgen
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 01:14 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I have some nice side cutters and they work well, but for those really tiny parts I use a set of sprue nippers I picked up from Micro-Mark. Here is a link:
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82393
Cheers,
Mike
Cool, thanks... now let's see if they ship to europe
dsmith
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:31 AM UTC
If the part is very fragile, use a hot knife, or the dremel tool. This way you can get extremely close and not have the attatchment point leave a hole (as sprue nippers do all too often) when you remove the part.
Hope this is of some help
Hope this is of some help
ShermiesRule
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 02:41 AM UTC
i have a big box that I rigged up and cut inside the box. That way at least I can limit the number of directions the part might fly into the carpet monster.
SOme people use large see thru plastic bags like the ones you buy vegetables
SOme people use large see thru plastic bags like the ones you buy vegetables
Jurgen
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 05:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
That way at least I can limit the number of directions the part might fly into the carpet monster.
lol, thanks for the tip, but my carpetmonster isn't hungry anymore, he ate to much....
matt
Campaigns Administrator
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 06:24 AM UTC
So you think.............. They NEVER get enought styrene... NEVER I say..... That's why I'm on a Concrete floor.....
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 06:52 AM UTC
I use a good pair of cuticle cutters from the drug store. It's the cleanest cutting set of cutter I've ever had.
Kenny
Kenny
jRatz
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Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 07:17 AM UTC
Heartily endorse the side cutters from Micro-Mark in message above !!!
They are good on thick or thin parts and fit well into the sprues so you can get a good 90-degree cut ...
I also love a nice, new single-edge razor blade.
3rd, to avoid stress on the part, warm a razor blade (or#11) over a candle -- not too hot, just a bit.
Also note that for really fragile parts, you should study all the attachment points and start with the ones that would seem to place least stress on the part when cut -- that will often take stress off later cuts.
John
They are good on thick or thin parts and fit well into the sprues so you can get a good 90-degree cut ...
I also love a nice, new single-edge razor blade.
3rd, to avoid stress on the part, warm a razor blade (or#11) over a candle -- not too hot, just a bit.
Also note that for really fragile parts, you should study all the attachment points and start with the ones that would seem to place least stress on the part when cut -- that will often take stress off later cuts.
John
Posted: Monday, January 08, 2007 - 09:22 AM UTC
Ahoy Jurgen,
And after all that......the part still broke....no problemo! .....just glue it back
together again.
Joe
And after all that......the part still broke....no problemo! .....just glue it back
together again.
Joe
junglejim
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Posted: Thursday, January 11, 2007 - 10:40 PM UTC
If I could add my $.02, while a bit pricey, the Tamiya sprue cutters are the best I've found. Not their side cutters, but the dedicated sprue cutters.
Jim
Jim
SkateOrDie
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Posted: Sunday, January 14, 2007 - 12:45 AM UTC
toenail clippers fer me (I also use em fer blister removal)