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Modeling in General: Advice on...
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Dust/hairs/particles and enamel paints
madwolf
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Illinois, United States
Member Since: February 20, 2006
entire network: 258 Posts
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 02:39 AM UTC
How to avoid?

I like using enamels, but since they dry so slow, I always get some small hairs on them or some other junk which ruins the look of the paint job. This is with smaller parts too.. I can't imagine painting a big u-boat or ship.. I guess the biggest issue is that my appartment is carpeted. Anything I can do to at least reduce the issue? Besides switching completely to acrylics....
Thanks!
exer
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Dublin, Ireland
Member Since: November 27, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 02:49 AM UTC
Buy a big plastic tupperware food storage box and cover your model with it while it dries, this should help alleviate the problem.
ws48
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South Carolina, United States
Member Since: January 30, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 03:49 AM UTC
You may be able to reduce the amount of open time or dry to touch time by using a faster evaporating reducer. From slowest to fastest consider:

Paint Thinner (Mineral Spirits)
Naphtha (Lighter Fluid}
Lacquer Thinner
Acetone

All can be used separately or in combination. Personally I think lacquer thinner which is a compound thinner is a good choice for solvent strength, evaporation, flow and set up time. Ideally you want the spray to stay wet enough to flow and fast dry to the touch so contaminates will not stick.

Don
HunterCottage
#116
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Stockholm, Sweden
Member Since: December 19, 2001
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 04:09 AM UTC
I work with ventilation, so I was thinking if you have any ducts close by your building area? If so put a light-weight filter in it to catch the dust, before it flies around. Don't forget to vacuum it every other month or so...
Tarok
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Victoria, Australia
Member Since: July 28, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 09:40 AM UTC
Broken down you basically have 2 problems: dust; and drying speed.

The lads have already covered (excuse the pun ) dust, but how about increasing the drying speed of your enamels. In it's simplest form I suppose you could put the painted model under a light bulb (not too close, you don't want a melted lump of plastic ), but if you wanted to get fancier you construct a drying box for yourself.

HTH

Rudi
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 05:45 PM UTC
I typically keep the air circulating while the kit drys.
ws48
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South Carolina, United States
Member Since: January 30, 2004
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 08:32 PM UTC
Good air movement is the key to attaining fast dry to handle times. Although heated air is best you must be careful to keep the curing temperature in the area of 120°F or less. Above 120°F you will deform the plastic. Another advantage of using heat is that you accelerate the cure time. Most enamels require 72 hours to cure to a point that it is safe to tape. An hour or two under heated air will equal 72 hours air dry.

A cure oven can be made from a cardboard or plastic box fitted with a cheap hair dryer in one end. Make sure the air flow passes above the painted parts and is not directed on them. Vent the other end so the box does not get too hot. This also creates positive air pressure and will not allow contaminants to enter the box.
Plasticbattle
#003
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Donegal, Ireland
Member Since: May 14, 2002
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Posted: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 - 09:08 PM UTC
Another tip is to have a spray bottle of water handy. Give your work area a slight spray by lightly misting it over the whole area. This also helps hold down dust that can be blown around/become airbourne and stick to your model.
madwolf
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Illinois, United States
Member Since: February 20, 2006
entire network: 258 Posts
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Posted: Thursday, December 14, 2006 - 02:27 PM UTC
Thanks for your help, all. Very good tips!
My main issue is small hairs sticking while painting. Clean storage for drying is not a problem. I will follow these tips as well as make my own drying box. Thanks again!
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