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Tools & Supplies: Glue and Adhesives
Talk about sticky stuff.
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My first glue........
Choirboy
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:22 AM UTC
Hi,

I'm a new modeller and new to the forum (So sorry if i have missed a disscusion already posted in this subject!). Just wondering if anyone had any advice for me on which glue to buy for simple kits, such as the Revell Hawk TMK1 'Red Arrow' i'm building?

Thanks a lot,

Choirboy
CRS
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:41 AM UTC
Simple or complex, I use Tenax 7r for all my modeling. It does take some getting use to - apply sparingly with a fine brush - but once you get the hang of it, I don't think you'll want to use anythingelse. Similar products are MicroWeld and Ambroid Pro-Weld.
AJLaFleche
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:46 AM UTC
Chuck's got the right idea about the glues.
In the long run, however, you'll save money if you find yourself a drafting pen like these:

Being metal, they last forever, clean up easy and cna be dfound dirt cheap on E-bay.
Dirk-Danger
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:50 AM UTC
I use humbrol liquid cement applied with a #0 paintbrush - the one that comes with it is crap. Basically any liquid cement will do the job. occasionally I use the slightly thicker 'needle' cement from Revell.

Of course for Resin and etched metal you need something else - superglue or something like Araldite.

Lee
Dirk-Danger
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:54 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Chuck's got the right idea about the glues.
In the long run, however, you'll save money if you find yourself a drafting pen like these:

Being metal, they last forever, clean up easy and cna be dfound dirt cheap on E-bay.



Not sure about 'in the long run' - I have used the same brush for over 50 kits now - not bad at 60p or thereabouts (when I bought it some years back). The brush can stiffen slightly but as soon as it goes back into the jar its back to normal.

Lee
Choirboy
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 12:55 AM UTC
Thanks guys!

I'm not quite clear on Drafting Pens still though some further explaination may prove helpful, i.e. how it works and how it is used? thanks
CRS
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 01:06 AM UTC
AJ - nice idea the Drafting Pens - however having been trained as a Draftsman in the 1960's and having used them quite a bit to lay down India Ink - I avoid them at all cost :-) I've become much better with a brush than I ever was with Drafting Pens, but if they work for you all the better, and to each his own.
Choirboy
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Posted: Friday, December 01, 2006 - 01:10 AM UTC
So what do you suggest, just to use a brush then?

I probably wouldn't even know where to begin with a drafting pen, and probably don't need one for what i am doing currently!

Thanks all!
tuffners3169
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Posted: Sunday, December 03, 2006 - 11:54 PM UTC
Heya Sam,
Whatever you do dont get revil glue, its a waste of money. Look at something cheeper maybe Wilkinsons Super Glue that will do the trick its worked for me so it will work for you.
Lewis Tuffnell
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propboy44256
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2006 - 12:44 AM UTC
Good idea using drafting pens
slodder
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Posted: Monday, December 04, 2006 - 12:50 AM UTC
Ok - here are my two cents.
I use a syringe and needle for my Tanex use. It does take a bit of getting used to how hard to push the plunger. It does work for me.

I have experimented with a brush, but like the syringe better.

The way I use the glue is this
1. Clean the parts
2. Test fit the parts dry and make sure there is a good connection.
3. Find a good out of the way place to hold the pieces together - FAR from where the glue will end up or be applied. Potentially use a clamp.
4. Refit the parts and have the syinge ready and position the seam vertically (gravity can help draw down the glue. I know capilary action works really well too).
5. Place the needle point at one end of the seam and gently squeeze out a drop of glue. Yes only one drop at first - it may be enough. Gravity and capilary action will draw the glue down the length of seam.

Things to watch out for, the glue (tanex) is very thin and flows into any gaps, so if your fingers are near the gap glue will be drawn under it and you are now part of your model and have lots to clean up. The glue does need a well 'mated' seam. This glue does not fill very well. It is fast acting so be sure of what you apply it to.

Potentially you may want to explore other glues like Testors Model glue or super glues like Zap. You'll hear CA (I forget the technical term) used in place of the word super glue.

A basic injected plastic (sprue based) model can be built with Tanex, CA, or Testors no problem. You may (and I do) use all three depending on the application.
A resin based model will use CA or two part epoxy.
A metal kit (or PE kit) will use CA or two part epoxy.
A vacu form ---- hmm, I'd experiment on some scraps, but CA, Testors would work and maybe Tanex.
Choirboy
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Posted: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 - 12:53 AM UTC
Thanks all you guys!

I have found some 'Britfix' Polyester Cement (By Humbrol) and i apply it with a brush or cocktail stick. Drafting pens and syringes all sound too fussy and complicated for me and i have found that this works well for simple models.

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