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Where do I start...?
PaperPlate
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Michigan, United States
Member Since: October 28, 2006
entire network: 5 Posts
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 06:41 AM UTC
Where do I start...?

Well I guess I'll start by introducing myself. I am a 22 year old student at the University of Michigan in Dearborn and I am currently majoring in Education. I have very little background in model painting but I am looking to make an official start. My modeling history consists of two models; a $20 Gundam model and a 68' Pontiac Firebird I built for my father as a father's day gift several years ago. The Gundam model I painted by hand since it was something cheap (not even sure where it is now) and I knew little about the painting techniques. The model of the car was painted with a Paasche airbrush (believe that is the pack I bought) that I did not personally care that much for. It has been several years so I can not recall if I even thinned the paint when I painted the model. The color seems rather thick in some parts and not smooth as it should be. Understand this was my first encounter with an airbrush and I did not purchase (hey, I was a teenager) any sort of book explaining how to airbrush. I used Tamiya paints on the car model and I was happy with the variety of colors they had and how the model turned out for my skill level.

Recently on a video game website I frequent, Penny Arcade, a discussion was started about modifying Nerf guns (yes, the foam shooting ones) and the discussion included the painting of such. Seeing this individual's paintings got me into wanting to paint myself a Nerf gun but I wanted it to look similar to his, in that he had painted his quite well. This eventually got me looking into how plastic models were painted and that eventually led me here, Armorama. After exploring the site for a while and looking at some of the models painted here I realized I wanted to get "back" into model building/painting. Currently I've pretty much just been lurking around on Armorama and trying to learn as much as I can. I am just baffled and how to get started...


With that said I basically I don't how to continue into the hobby. I checked out a few local hobby shops around here (Riders Hobby Shop , Michigan Toy Soldier) and bought Modeling TANKS and MILITARY VEHICLES by Shepherd Paine. I want to get F.A.Q. by Miguel Jime'nez that I found out about through Armorama. Obviously you get the idea I want to model Armor, more specifically World War 2 machines though I am open to pretty much anything. I believe the best place to start would be to get a new airbrush and a compressor and just practice on some models I have sitting around the house (69' Pontiac Trans-am, old B-17g Thunder Bird Bomber by Revell) to get the feel for it.

Even though this is an introduction post I guess this is probably the best place to ask since you can see my background:

What kind of airbrush do I get?
I understand the need for a compressor with the brush (I spent a lot of money on compressed air refills for my Paasche) and would want that to go along with the brush. The main brands I see people using around on these forums are Badgers and IWATA's. I think the IWATA's are a bit too advanced for a beginner and I was thinking a Badger might be a good place to start. While at the Michigan Toy Soldier store I asked them about how to get into model painting. He suggested to first buy a airbrush and to start from there, to get used to airbrush painting. The only kind they carried there was Paasche and I was immediately turned off to the idea of buying one from there. It is probably just due to my decision to buy a cheap airbrush; for all I know Paasche may be a great company.

So which company do you suggest (suggest any please, I do not know many) for a beginner? What kind should I get? After using the Paasche I think I would prefer a gravity feed system even though I know nothing about airbrushes. ]Is this a good idea?

And are Tamiya paints good to use? From reading around Armorama I have seen lots of people using them so I believe they are widely accepted.

Once I get the airbrush what should I start painting? I want to work with 1/35th models eventually but I feel starting there might be a bad idea. I feel starting at 1/35th would be a bad idea since I consider them to be more advanced. Should I start smaller and move up?

I apologize for the length of the post and for asking questions but I feel it's the best place. This became entirely too long and hope at least someone reads it.Thanks in advance for welcoming and/or suggestions.

68' Firebird Model images:
Image One
Image Two
Image Three
Sorry for the size of the images. Beginners work here so be gentle! Gives you an idea of where I am coming from, understand this model was made several years ago and done with no airbrushing past.

-PaperPlate
CReading
#001
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California, United States
Member Since: February 09, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 07:44 AM UTC
I would suggest that you purchase the best airbrush that you can afford and in my mind an Iwata would be the perfect fit. I have nothing against Badger but IMHO even the least expensive Iwata is a better built tool.

Here's the plan:
Purchase a 1:35 Dragon T-34 (they are relatively inexpensive and a great kit)
The kit can be put together out of the box with great results.
Experiment with the AB on this kit.

Document your progress in photographs and post here frequently so we can follow your progress.

U of M huh? Well I won't hold that against you

Go Buckeyes,
Charles
old-dragon
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Illinois, United States
Member Since: August 30, 2005
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 08:43 AM UTC
It's kinda like waiting for the right time to have kids...just jump in and do it.
I'm twice your age and just got back into it a year or so ago so here's my two cents-
-Stick with 1/35...it's easier to see and work with than 1/48 and/or 1/72!
-Start out with the easier and less piece count kits...old tamiya and italeri are good.
-Passche makes nice ABs but so does badger{I like my old 175}, iwata and aztek{yes, "I" said axtek because I own two of them as well}. The best AB in the world is nothing in someone's hands who can't work it properly...find one you like and can afford and paint/practice ALOT...it's the only way you'll ever get good. I've been playing with my 3 for the last year and am starting to get just good, by these guys standards.
-I used to swear by model master, but after a few times of swearing at it I switched to tamiya and like it...after using a few different types, you'll find the one you like.
-as for a compressor, get a decent one with a tank and a good regulator that will dial down accurately to low pressure, as low as 5-10psi. The compressors you'd find at any given home supply store will do but the regs aren't really geared for real low pressure.
-BTW, welcome aboard...lurk all you want and read, that's how I learned what I have so far...ask a question from time to time, we'll help. I'm a 41 year old rookie that build quite a few models back when, but this old dog can still learn some new tricks still and luckily the people here can help.
slodder
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North Carolina, United States
Member Since: February 22, 2002
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 04:17 PM UTC
I like Bob's comment about having kids. Yea, jump in the waters fine. You learn as you go and you can't have all your ducks in a row right out of the gate.

Tamiya paints are decent for airbrushing, frustrating for brush painting. I've heard that Tamiya thinner is the best thing to use to thin them I use denatured alcohol (I've used windex, water, paint thinner) - none really better or worse.

I use a Badger 175 double action brush and a compressor with a small tank on it. If you can spend the money go double action gravity feed and get a tank on your compressor. Gravity feed is nice because you get more control and you can use smaller amounts of paint. Double action is nice because you control the air and paint flows. The tank is nice because it's quieter, the compressor fills the tank and shuts off till the tank pressure drops.

I would say start in 1/35 scale because the market is flooded with 'stuff' you can buy that is good quality and will result in good builds. And you can get almost any subject. I would start with a Tamiya kit, or a newer Dragon. Plus the size of the parts is less frustrating to achieve a good look than a 1/72 scale kit. You actually work harder at smaller scales to get a better look.

Ask any questions here, there are tons of members who will help you in all areas, Armor, Auto, Figures, Ships, Planes, Sci-Fi/Gundam....... Everywhere, everything.

Lastly - Have Fun, it's a hobby.
IndyCopper
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Indiana, United States
Member Since: March 16, 2004
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 09:07 PM UTC
If it where me just starting out, I would go with the Badger 150, (dont just look for it in Model shop, but also art supply stores) They are easy to find and spare parts are readily available. When you get it, there is no substitute for practice. Make sure your air compressor has a pressure regulator. Experiment with psi anywhere from 10-12 on up to 25-30. Different brands of paint like different psi and also play with the thinning ratio of the paint. Different brands like different ratios. Also be on the safe side and only use the manufacturers recommended thinners. I have also found that different colors in the same paint brand spray differently with the same ratio of thinner, so again, just practice and experiment until the airbrush sprays the way you want it. It is a balancing act between how much you thin the paint, how much air pressure and how close the airbrush is to the model. GENERALY a little thicker paint+a little higher psi for a one color base coat. And thinner paint+lower psi for camo work. My personal choice for paint brands (after much experimentation) is to use Tamiya for airbrush work (water based so easy cleanup but they r difficult to handbrush) and to use Model Master enamels for brush detail paint work ( great color selection) After you have experience though, I am sure you will pick your own favorite. I would start off with anything from Tamiya as far a kits go. Well good luck and just keep at it. Every project you do will get better than the last.
staff_Jim
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KITMAKER NETWORK
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New Hampshire, United States
Member Since: December 15, 2001
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Posted: Tuesday, November 28, 2006 - 10:01 PM UTC
Well if you build models as well as you contruct a forum posting I would say your going to be great at it. :-)

Welcome to the site!

Cheers,
Jim
Wendy
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Michigan, United States
Member Since: June 20, 2006
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Posted: Wednesday, November 29, 2006 - 09:57 PM UTC
Hey Jason,
Just to let you know, Michigan Historical Miniatures Club meets every Thursday at 7pm at Michigan Toy Soldier. It's very informal - just open painting. The fun part is seeing what everyone else is working on. Most of the guys paint figures (or in my case, minis), but I know some of them have painted armor and stuff like that at some point. There are other guys who use air brushes for their figures as well, so they might be helpful in that regard. The amount of knowledge they have is incredible (don't count me here - I'm still fairly new). Feel free to drop by sometime and chat.

There is also a show and painting competition coming up on January 28 (Sunday). (It's club sponsored in conjunction with a toy soldier and militaria show.) It's $5 to enter the competition, free to exhibit. Even if you just want to bring stuff to exhibit, you can get in the show for free.

Cheers,
Wendy
jpzr
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Kentucky, United States
Member Since: July 01, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, November 30, 2006 - 12:58 AM UTC
Welcome to armorama, and to the world of scale modeling!
Lots of good suggestions here, and I thought I'd echo a couple.
As far as purchasing an airbrush, there are many factors for you to consider. First off, I'd discourage you from thinking that a cheaper, simpler airbrush is necessarily the best way to go for a new user. Fact is, better airbrushes are often easier to keep clean and when it gets right down to it, keeping an airbrush clean is a huge part of getting good performance out of an airbrush. Generally speaking, gravity feed airbrushes are easier to keep clean because the "paint path" is much shorter and more direct. They also give you the advantage of requiring less air pressure, they generally allow superior atomization, and they use less paint. As others have said, the specific brand people prefer is largely subjective. Once you get used to an airbrush, regardless of brand, good results can be obtained as long as it is clean and in good order. All this aside, I will tell you that I've used multiple brands (Badger, Paasche, Aztek, and Iwata to be specific), and of these Iwata is clearly in a class of its own. I have two of them, and they are both finely crafted instruments of precise manufacture. They are easier to keep clean and maintain than any of the other airbrushes I've used, and this helps them be far more consistent and easy to work with. I'd recommend googling dixie airbrush supply and/or bear air for lots of information about many different lines of airbrushes. They both have good prices and provide good service. For a more specific recommendation, I'd suggest one of the Eclipse models as they generally offer a good combination of features lending them great versatility (provide broad coverage, but they have sufficiently small needle/tip sizes to give you adequate detail capability at 1/35 scale) but you won't have to break the bank to buy one. Oh, and if you go the Iwata route, go ahead and spring for the detail crown and the preset handle; you'll thank me when you want to start tackling free-hand camo!
Regarding scale, I too suggest starting out in 1/35. The smaller scales present different kinds of challenges, and in terms of airbrushing, those challenges are usually greater.
As far as good kits on which to cut your teeth, lots of candidates. First off, I'd suggest a subject usually painted in a single color, that way you don't have to worry about camo right out of the gate. If you want to keep things simple and straightforward, any of the new Trumpeter KV kits would be excellent. Great fit, easy construction, accurate, well detailed, and cheap. And most of 'em were just green, and when it comes to Russian green, almost any green is close enough. Of course old Tamiya and Italeri kits make good practice beds, especially if you can find them in discount bins.
Paints, like almost everything else, are subjectively esteemed. First choice is medium: enamel or acrylic. Enamels require much stronger solvents or thinners and have more caustic fumes, but are quite durable and, in the opinion of many, airbrush and brush better than acrylics. Clean up is generally more of a hassle. Acrylics are more user friendly in that they are water soluble so they are easier to clean up after and their fumes aren't nearly as strong (or toxic!). Modern acrylics have nearly matched enamels in terms of performance. I use acrylics almost exclusively, so I'll focus on a couple of brands of those. Tamiya are easy to airbrush (use their thinner for best results), are readily available, and are pretty durable once cured. They are quite poor for brush application, however; I wouldn't recommend spending any time/energy on trying to master that endeavor. Vallejo are another common acrylic and to some extent they are the polar opposite of Tamiya: Great for brush application but can be a little tricky to airbrush properly. They also are not as durable as Tamiya, especially when applied over unprimed plastic. Basically, you should prime whenever you use Vallejo. To be honest, I prefer the finish Vallejo GENERALLY gives through an airbrush, but it can be a lot trickier getting there than with Tamiya (tip drying/clogging when doing fine work being the biggest hassle). I also use Polly Scale on occasion and find it to be closer to Vallejo in temperament. Gunze makes a nice line of acrylics, but they can be a little tricky to procure. Again, like the airbrush, most any paint can yield good results. The key is learning the proper balance of paint/thinner/airpressure for the particular task in hand. One benefit of starting (and sticking) with one brand of paint is it makes the familiarization process easier.
Finally, Wendy made an excellent suggestion. Getting "hands on" instruction and feedback is irreplaceable.
Hope this helps. You've come to a good place for information and support.
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